Thread: DC2 overheating problems

Shit dude, it actually sounds like you've brought a mess of a car!

Take it to a mechanic and run a compression test on the engine and pressure test of the coolant system. It could easily be the head gasket or a leak in the cooling system.

Sounds like you need to give this car a major check over and service.

Face the music ,Due to the lack of power as well as the loss of water, its Probably a headgasket and quite possibly also a warped head.

Your in for a big bill either way. Should have pulled over and checked why it was overheating. The hose probably wasnt on tight and popped off, causing you to overheat. 5 minutes of your time and you might have avoided it.

^^ x2 ^^ sounds like a headgasket.

+1 on Head gasket, Or if your lucky could just be the ecu has remapped its self for a hot engine and/or you have a air lock in the cooling system.
Re-bleed the cooling system to remove any air locks and reset the ecu by disconnecting the power for 5mins.

Originally Posted by bmgjet

+1 on Head gasket, Or if your lucky could just be the ecu has remapped its self for a hot engine and/or you have a air lock in the cooling system.
Re-bleed the cooling system to remove any air locks and reset the ecu by disconnecting the power for 5mins.

Pretty much a zero chance of this happening.

If it was an airlock, you wouldnt have to keep topping it up. Just top it up once after the airlock has expelled itself from the system, eventually. You see this alot when customers have tried to do their own cooling system changes at home.

The ecu wont re-map itself, it just doesnt happen without some sort of human intervention.

It sounds like when the engine is getting hot the crack is opening up and causing a loss of compression/letting coolant into the cylinder, hence the running like shit he is experiencing. Very textbook signs of a fuxxored headgasket.

That being said, Try re-setting the ECU, see if it makes any difference, i could always be wrong.

Why was my post deleted?

Originally Posted by tysonzane

Why was my post deleted?

Have merged it from the duplicate thread (was deleted).

Originally Posted by samk115

Pretty much a zero chance of this happening.

If it was an airlock, you wouldnt have to keep topping it up. Just top it up once after the airlock has expelled itself from the system, eventually. You see this alot when customers have tried to do their own cooling system changes at home.

The ecu wont re-map itself, it just doesnt happen without some sort of human intervention.

It sounds like when the engine is getting hot the crack is opening up and causing a loss of compression/letting coolant into the cylinder, hence the running like shit he is experiencing. Very textbook signs of a fuxxored headgasket.

That being said, Try re-setting the ECU, see if it makes any difference, i could always be wrong.

Seen it happen before, Air lock causes water to heat up and go out overflow bottle as steam. And when the engine overheats timing is pulled, that timing stays removed until the ECU is reset on OBD0 and OBD1 Ecus. Dont know about OBD2.

Originally Posted by bmgjet

Seen it happen before, Air lock causes water to heat up and go out overflow bottle as steam. And when the engine overheats timing is pulled, that timing stays removed until the ECU is reset on OBD0 and OBD1 Ecus. Dont know about OBD2.

Thats not re-mapping the ECU, that is simply retarding the timing. AFAIK the timing returns to normal after an overheat situation UNLESS the vehicle has entered limp home mode, in which case a the CEL is illuminated on dash. Vtec is also disabled during circumstances like this.

It also wouldnt retard the timing so much that it runs like an absolute POS, that would be counter-productive to what they were trying to acheive by retarding the timing in the first place.

An air lock works itself out of the system eventually, you dont have to keep topping it up in most cases. If you are losing that much water as steam you'd also be able to see it.

Taking the symptoms at face value i would be predicting a headgasket issue, whether it was on a honda or a customers car at work.

I used the word re-map because the OP seems to not know much about cars so thats the simplest term for him to understand.
Iv mentioned how overheating changes the timing maps to run in a almost safe mode in one of my ECU chipping/tunning threads if you want to read up more about it.
ECU chipping

But back to what I originally said to the OP.
Re-bleed your coolant system and reset the ECU, doesn't cost anything to do. If problems persist then its the head gasket.

Haven't even read the other posts.

Where has the water gone? If it is disappearing into the cylinder head I would do a pressure test on the cooling system and pull the plugs out check if water leaks into the cylinders.

Just disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes, that will reset the ECU.

bmgjet, some interesting info in that thread. Definitly worth a more indepth read. The fact that the retarted ignition remains is a bit odd-ball, i have not struck this on any cars i have worked on yet. I still dont think it will run that rough though.