Thread: Accord 98 BOSE System

Hey guys,

Just got myself an SiR-T, but the sound system is FUBAR. It's got a Clarion head, BOSE speakers in the doors, and the BOSE sub in the parcel shelf. I'm in the process of replacing the door speakers with Sony's I have from my old car.

I don't know shit about ICE. The front speakers I got are new 3way 300W Peak (60W RMS), and the rears I have no idea (they are old Sony's, that say 75W on the rim). Together they all sounded OK in the old car but lacked bass.

The BOSE sub appears to be dead. If I push the cone it will make some noise, but only treble. It's got the factory 100w amp running to it. Is there any way to salvage it? New amp and new sub that will fit in the factory enclosure? I don't want to spend lots and I'd like to keep my boot space. If it can't be done then so be it.

I think it might be even smaller then that (thus hard to find a replacement). What wiring does a normal amp need?

I had my Bose Sub working when i plugged it to my amp. I think its a 8inch sub, very slim one. Sounded alright when plugged into my amp though!

Normal amp needs power, ground and remote wires. Then you have your wires for the speakers/sub.

Well its been a busy night. Found that the right rear door was disconnected. I had to pull the HU out and connect it back up, only to find that when you closed the door the speaker wires would short and the HU would engage "amp guard".

After LOTS of looking around I found the metal in the car frame had rubbed away the coating from the two speaker wires during the movement of the door opening and closing. I temporarily wrapped some tape around them, bit of a hack job but there's not enough room for an ant to move around, let alone my fingers. I'll look at redoing that in the morning when it's light.

The sub looks like a no go. The cone itself looks completely warped and out of shape and reading up on the net, as stated, the BOSE subs have very low resistance and the BOSE amp doesn't like the high current from most aftermarket headunits. All in all, I guess whoever installed the Clarion HU buggered it all up.

The sub itself looks tiny. Perhaps only 6inch. I don't think finding a replacement the same size is gonna happen. And without some sort of wiring diagram I have no idea what wires are what.

Ok. Anyone got a wiring diagram for the BOSE amp so that I could tap into it if I were to put in an aftermarket amp/sub? Also, any recommendations? I just want something small that gives enough kick to make rock/punk music sound good, and the occasional dance tune.

Not after one of the subs you can hear coming from a mile away that rattles you to death.

Originally Posted by zombo

uh wiring for bose amp? like I said, almost impossible, bin it all

Yes, I understand that. But I would assume I could tap into the existing wiring to provide power and signals to a new amp.

Originally Posted by efcivic88

what u want for the bose door speakers

$50?

sorry to reopen this old one.

Looking at wiring up the Bose sub to a new amp. Anybody had any luck with this? Is it just the same as a normal subwoofer?

cheers

Bringing up an old thread. I finally want to get around to installing a cheap sub+amp combo. Thinking of getting a cheapo all-in-one Fusion kit. I'm not looking for huge amounts of bass - hopefully this will do the trick. Will probably wire it up myself. Does anyone know which colour the remote wire is?

Installed a Sub and Amp into my CF4 yesterday, it's a bit of a mission finding a good port through the firewall for the power cable, but used the main loom port just behind the fuse box
I hooked the factory sub up to my amp to see what it was like before removing it from the parcel tray.. do not want. I popped the sub cover back on to keep it tidy and it works as a wee port I suppose My head unit is an aftermarket pioneer one and as mentioned the remote cable is usually blue (mine still had the sticker saying "Remote Stereo System" on the wire). All in all it's an easy job once you're through the firewall, power cable down the left, RCA and remote down the right, rear seats are held in by clips and two bolts so it's all straight forward. I don't know why I'm still rambling but never mind.