Thats a pretty horrible catch 22.... disconnect battery, lose all radio and climate controls. Can you swap the JDM nav units out for the NZ new non-nav radio?
hmm have you checked the boot? -edit: errr wagon... thats awkward
Kelvin - yes you can, but you need to buy the whole radio and ac control unit, which isn't cheap :(
I've successfully installed a car-PC and using it now with OEM NAVI display and touchscreen... Also, a reverse camera plugged into my jap tv-tuner and it is activating on reverse. All stuff such as GPS (IGO8 navigation), Bluetooth hands free, mp3, video, radio, etc... all goes through that car pc. I am using Centrafuse as a shell environment, but it can be any software. Also, it can easily switch back to original car interface just pressing a special assigned button. Buttons on the steering wheel are working too! I can change a volume and skip music tracks by pressing them. So nothing impossible here... :) I was using a slow eeepc laptop as a source, so it was a bit slow. After swapping to a better one the response from pc became much quicker. And there is no soldering or intrusion into genuine equipment at all!
Nice..are you using the GA-Net+ interface (GA-Net+ Acura / Honda - car bus, monitor, buttons, carPC - Adapter or (Non Navi) Honda Accord 7th Generation (2003-2007) Non Navigation CarPC Installation ) ? or have you done your own ?
The issue I have..... and I assume as yours does too -the OEM system remains in the background, so if you loose that, the CarPC will not function, so it needs the OEM system to piggy back off.
The further complication I have is no DVD player, so not sure how the Jap's rebooted the system ? unless the HDD slot has a formatted reboot drive dedicated in there, or it is just storage/brain.
I did read somewhere the new Navi system update over the phone linked system, back to Navi mothership ? so I might be screwed ?
I have looked at the full NZ radio swap, be about $ 500 all said & done.....but I have a screen so would like to keep it if possible and use it with a CarPC or ??
there are full replacemnet system, made in China, but all reports say they are crap, which is a shame as it would be a nice replace, but $$$$.
Other way would be to hack into the current system and change the settings firstly to English and then to allow it to reboot easily and have the CarPC talk to it as you have now.
This is a long shot, the system is Windows based apparently and is in C++ programming, so need to spend shed loads with a programmer to achieve who knows what ??
The search continues, I have emailed TempGP but had not reply as yet...
My other challenege is ECU wiring....that's another story in itself !
The problem i see for you isnt the radio not working... its the climate controls being inaccessible in the event of a reboot.
The full system chinese ones apparently work, but the driver/passenger controls are reversed and from what ive seen they look cheap compared to OEM fit and finish.
If you can, i'd personally change over to the NZDM units.
I have sent a PM.
Hey lads - further to Xplicit's question further up regarding fuel type.
I Drive a 2006 EURO S 2.4
Would 98 be the best fuel type also?
Currently I'm running on 95.. and wanted to know if its worth getting it flushed and changed to 98?
Certainly not worth getting it flushed. As for changing to 98? Up to you. It will run a little better on 98, but it depends on whether you can swallow the extra price.
Are the NZ New ones optimized for 95 octane?
Best bet is to run to fuel light, full tank of 98, and reset the ECU (disconnect battery).
Anyone know a good clutch for 24s?
anyone try lighten flywheel on a 24s?
Due for new one
DC5R Flywheel is an upgrade most americans do on their tsx's..
Kinda screwed up tonight. Was trying to use up all my 95 so I drove, and drove and drove...and drove... then my fuel ran out 20 meters away from a gas station. By then there was no 95 left, refuled with 98. Will be using 98 from now. k20a EuroR. :)
Anyone have any suggestions on wheels for my Euro?
Currently wanting to add some shiny new wheels as well as have it lowered...
Fuel wise the ECU is tuned for the country it's meant for, so NZ is 91 and JDM is design for Jap fuel 95 - 98 i think. In nz the ECU will detect any engine knock on lower octane fuel and retard the ignition until the knock goes away. It remembers the setting, but as said before you will reset that memory if you disconnect the battery. The higher octane alone will give u a small (few percent, so unnoticeable) power increase, but tuning is really required to make the best of the fuel change.
The extra u pay for 98 isn't really worth it......unless u tune for it, or reset and then its debatable gain......IMHO.
Check out - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
New Zealand: 91 RON "Regular" and 95 RON "Premium" are both widely available. 98 RON is available instead of 95 RON at some service stations in larger urban areas.
Sumoke - can't see the pictures you attached :(
yep working now.
Wheels I guess are a personal preference, but the ones I have seen that work are: Buddyclub P1, Volk TE37, Enkei RPF01, Work CR Kai, XD9 and XSA 02C. I guess just depends what style you prefer.
I previous used BBS RG-Rs, now using Work VS-SS.
When I was pondering the same thing as you, I ventured over to: http://www.rimtuck.com/search/thumbn...cura&model=TSX
-edit- one thing I wanted to add, and I'm sure other people share this feeling... is how much I hate how big our wheel arches are.
A few photos from today's mini meet :) CL meet
- - - Updated - - -
Next time, we would love to see more CL7's and 9's :)
very nice pics to end the night with :) Wish there were more CL7/9's in Welly :(