ITR sway bar on a EG

[Rallyhonda]

Hi, does a ITR rear sway bar fit properly on a EG hatch rear?

Please only answer if you know for sure.
Cheers R.

[JiB]

CamB fitted one to his eg IIRC.

Some fettling required.

[Coupe-R]

needs modification to the subframe to fit.
http://nzhondas.com/phpBB2/2-vtu56345.html?start=25

or you can buy the ASR braces from USA

[Horny_Devil]

doesnt need modification, its recomended u modify the subframe or add a brace.

anything more than 20mm's its recomended to brace the subframe

and yes it does fit

[Rallyhonda]

Thanks

[Coupe-R]

Good luck trying to fit it without any modification at all then

Ok I'll help here.
Notice the small d brackets on the EG and where they are positioned?
Now compare the 22mm D brackets and bushings on a ITR and where they NEED TO BE on the sub frame.

the reinforcement of the sub frame is only part of the fitment, the rest is getting the brackets in the correct place. You will need to drill and space the sub frame up flat.
Without reinforcement your d bracket bolts will pull straight out of the sheet metal.

no modification is needed eh

[maybe1day]

I have the american adaptor kit on my eg4 - looks pretty tidy and no issues yet.

[Coupe-R]

yip there is a beaks kit which does pretty much what I did (not quite as good at spreading the load tho)

and there is ther bling bling ASR brace that looks cool but serves the same purpose really.

[Horny_Devil]

weird considering the part numbers are the same.

i neaver had a sway bar to start with on my car, and i just grabed the brackets for the D bracket of on EG with a factory sway bar and it all fitted fine.

theres a bracket that gets rid of the step, and allows you to move the position of the D bracket, as u can see in my pic below above the tie bar

[FLYRYD]

you really need to reinforce the mounting points on the EG, like people said u can buy adaptors like ASR, BEAKS.

if u dont do any reinforcing, there is a big chance that the antisway bar will rip the subframe up

[Coupe-R]

Hi, does a ITR rear sway bar fit properly on a EG hatch rear

you sure about the part numbers, 22mm ITR bush and bracket vs 14mm

that doesn't look like a ITR sway bar in your picture? Bends are in different places etc.

theres a bracket that gets rid of the step, and allows you to move the position of the D bracket

what do you mean by this, you mean there is two bolt holes next the the bracket?

that surface is not flat hence the reason why you just can't bolt it up all fine. Even if you just pack it out with washers and bolt it up ,tear out will be knocking on your door 8)

Im all for an easier way and everything but the picture below is where the bushes SHOULD be positioned on the sway bar; and how the orientation of a 22mm ITR rear sway bar SHOULD sit.

[Horny_Devil]

the sway bar in my pic is a tanabe one, the part number for that sway bar is the same for one that fits on an ITR. the one i ordered was for an EG6, i have an EG4 which had no rear sway bar from factory.

the bracket u can clearly see in the pic is under the D bracket that holds the sway bar on. it has 2 holes at one end for the 2 bracket and at the other end its steped --_ like that, 2 different levels so it sits nicely against the subframe, as where the bolt holes are on the subframe, theyre not on the same plane.

that surface is not flat hence the reason why you just can't bolt it up all fine. Even if you just pack it out with washers and bolt it up ,tear out will be knocking on your door

see above, theres a factory part that allows you to attach the part with out having to use washers

hope that makes more sence

[Coupe-R]

the part number for that sway bar is the same for one that fits on an ITR

Yeh it just seems weird cause your bar looks alot different to mine where the bends are. Also notice where the sway bar sits.

Yours is up high on the subframe and mine is down low.

IF you check the ITR helms manual the swaybar sits how I have it on my car, also there is two green spray lines where the bushes MUST sit in order for the sway bar to be setup correctly.

My pic shows a ITR sway bar setup in the correct orientation with the correct preload.


My EJ1 had a sway bar and I removed those stepped brackets so I know what you mean. Those stepped brackets do not allow you to put ITR D brackets in the CORRECT location

but are you saying bolt the D brackets to where they are attached to the subframe with longer bolts?
(This is not how you have it, you used the factory d bracket location)

I am sorta confused

[Horny_Devil]

the way it looks to me is it doesnt matter all to much where the sway bar sits because its using the twisting of the bar to accomplish its purpose. the swaybar wants to be in the unloaded position all the time. ie LCA goes up, it wants to pull the one on the other side up too, so in a corner it will help the car sit flatter. position of the bar really wouldnt make to much of a differance in the way the bar works

i dont quiet know how u can preload a rear sway bar

yea i used the factory d bracket loaction and it works fine

there s pic of the stepped bit, number 12,13

[Coupe-R]

i dont quiet know how u can preload a rear sway bar

by setting it up in the wrong location, alreay loaded up. Or doing up the bushes tight in the air, so when the car sits down its loaded up even more.

The bar is designed with the bends as such that the brackets must be in the correct place in order to function how it was intended. Also the bar must exit the endlinks in a straight fashion. Thats why If you buy a 22mm ITR sway bar new from honda there is two green spray paint marks for where you put them.

It's great that you have it setup and working for you, be cool if you could get a pic of the whole bar and how it attaches to the endlinks.

Cause its looking quite a bit different to how I have it setup (and everyone else using a beaks, ASR welded plate method)

the sway bar in my pic is a tanabe one, the part number for that sway bar is the same for one that fits on an ITR

Ah I think I get it now, your bar IS NOT A HONDA TYPE R REAR SWAY BAR.

thats why the bends look totally different.

Take a really close look at where the D brackets are in my picture, then have a really close look at your D brackets.
Can you see how it would NEVER work using the factory brackets with a HONDA bar. They are much too high. (see how the sway bar follows the bottom of the subframe, where as yours follows the top) completly different bars here!
Trust me, I have fitted a HONDA ITR rear sway to a EG/EJ civic.

End 8)

[Horny_Devil]

so how much different in shape is the ITR rear bar to the one in the parts picture i posted above?

sam ur sway bar looks exactally the same as my tanabe one

my sway bar attaches to the endlinks exactally the same as the one in the parts picture above, infact it fitted exactally the same as a factory bar, just had bigger bushes in it for the D brackets.

you can install the ITR sway bar using the bracket and it does work, though its not advised to as u may tear the subframe

thats what it looks like before i put the sway bar on, 2 holes in the subframe for the sway bar mounting bracket.


DC2 swaybar bracket and sway bar installed on a EG


another one installed with the bracket

[Horny_Devil]

and id say that if the tanabe sway bar kit will fit both an EG and a DC then the itr one would to wouldnt u think? the only thing ud need to change would be the bush in the D bracket

[BTLF3D]

no it wont work, look where the bend in the type r bar starts (just by the LCA bolt) and then look at your tanabe swaybar, the bend starts a bit further out that the type r one. you could probly get it to work by switching those stepped brackets on each side which will bring the bushes in further so it wont have clearance issues on the type r bar.

[Horny_Devil]

look at the top pic with the black sway bar seems to work doesnt it?

i dont see any green markings on sam's sway bar

trust me it does work and has been done heaps in the states using the same method i have described

[DrRubber]

I tend to think they are the same floorpan so they will fit.

I chucked a 22mm on the domani (skunkworks) with no issue and we lined it up at the time with my neibours(sp) dc2 and it would have fitted....



why would an itr one be any different ?

[BTLF3D]

that tanabe bar looks just like my whiteline one, you can see the brackets are in a different place on each bar, the type r one has the brackets closer in the middle (before the LCA bolt) and the aftermarket ones (tanabe, whiteline) have them placed further out (after the LCA bolt)...

what were we actually disscusing again?

[Coupe-R]

haha

finially some support from someone else who actually has tested this out

I think the point the others are missing is that

1:THE SWAY BARS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT ARE NOT A HONDA SWAY BAR

2: DC2 IS THE SAME YES. BUT NOT DC2R


That parts picture you posted was for a EG6/DC2 setup.
All your pictures have shown a DC2/EG6 style of setup with the stepped bracket.

Go check a ITR out, the D brackets ARE NOT like that.
I say again, you should not be able to bolt a ITR sway bar using your factory EG6/DC2 brackets, seriously the bends are in the wrong places and the bar just won't go into the endlinks. Or if it does IT WILL BE IN THE WRONG POSITION!

I tend to think they are the same floorpan so they will fit.

ITR rear subframe is quite different

dont see any green markings on sam's sway bar

thats cause the bushes are lined right up with them, you won't quite see them in that pic

Horney Devil can you please post up a link with pics where someone has fitted a ITR sway bar to a EG or DC2 (non type R) with no modification at all.
The guy who asked the question is racing his car, so I imagine even if it can work with no modifaction as you say. It will most surely tear the subframe on a rally car!

[Ped Rac3r]

Just a quick question, what kind of fitment issues would you be likely to see when trying to fit up and ITR rear sway bar to a DC2? Is it just a matter of the D brackets?

[Coupe-R]

D brackets as positioned like Beaks or ASR or my pic has em.
then make the subframe strong by allowing the load to be spread the subframe is just thin steel, 22mm bar with massive load can tear subframes or break endlinks.
Remember to greese up the D bushes nice and good.

When I fit mine the endlinks needed spacing out from the LCA's a little bit cause they rubbed when the car was at ride height.