battery relocation

[SLOTEG]

Originally Posted by dazznz

Thats why the wire is covered in rubber, and then you put it inside the black hard plastic tubing through the car. Well at least this is how PK Auto electrical did my race car, and they do all of road race & rallys electrical work as well as neil alport and rallyart.......

thats how mine is done...
rubber coated wire running the length of the car inside a plastic tube stuff.
no fuse near the battery at all

[Moclov]

Originally Posted by dazznz

Thats why the wire is covered in rubber, and then you put it inside the black hard plastic tubing through the car. Well at least this is how PK Auto electrical did my race car, and they do all of road race & rallys electrical work as well as neil alport and rallyart.......

Still seems pretty dodgy IMO, especially on a race car where the potential for a serious crash is so much higher... But hey, not my car

[BTLF3D]

Originally Posted by SLOTEG

thats how mine is done...
rubber coated wire running the length of the car inside a plastic tube stuff.
no fuse near the battery at all

done like that on mine too :wink:

[hbasher]

Originally Posted by Moclov

Still seems pretty dodgy IMO, especially on a race car where the potential for a serious crash is so much higher... But hey, not my car

So is there actually any argument for not running a fuse? in a car crash i would not like to be upside down and somehow have the battery cable damaged and shorting near fuel since its in the rear of the car. just like in car audio they run a fuse closet to the battery cos all of that cable has the potential to short and cause fire, imo fire is not really a good thing in a car

[itekdu]

Originally Posted by hbasher

So is there actually any argument for not running a fuse? in a car crash i would not like to be upside down and somehow have the battery cable damaged and shorting near fuel since its in the rear of the car. just like in car audio they run a fuse closet to the battery cos all of that cable has the potential to short and cause fire, imo fire is not really a good thing in a car

If you want to spend the extra cash, and have a fuse breaker next to the battery, do it.

[Moclov]

Originally Posted by hbasher

So is there actually any argument for not running a fuse? in a car crash i would not like to be upside down and somehow have the battery cable damaged and shorting near fuel since its in the rear of the car. just like in car audio they run a fuse closet to the battery cos all of that cable has the potential to short and cause fire, imo fire is not really a good thing in a car

Exactly. My car got hit while stationary at less than 100km/h and the entire side of it was torn open like a tin can. Do people really think a bit of rubber insulation and a plastic tube is going to protect the wire?
For the cost of a fuse, I don't see why you wouldn't

[dazznz]

Originally Posted by hbasher

So is there actually any argument for not running a fuse? in a car crash i would not like to be upside down and somehow have the battery cable damaged and shorting near fuel since its in the rear of the car. just like in car audio they run a fuse closet to the battery cos all of that cable has the potential to short and cause fire, imo fire is not really a good thing in a car

When you are racing you try and minimise things that could possibly go wrong and cause a problem during a race. If you had to miss a race because a stupid fuse blew it would be a pain in the arse. and besides it only takes one spark to start a fire, and chances are that will be the first one that blows the fuse anyway, so your fucked either way. Kill switch ftw.

[dragon]

Originally Posted by dazznz

When you are racing you try and minimise things that could possibly go wrong and cause a problem during a race. If you had to miss a race because a stupid fuse blew it would be a pain in the arse. and besides it only takes one spark to start a fire, and chances are that will be the first one that blows the fuse anyway, so your fucked either way. Kill switch ftw.

I get where you are coming from, trying to eliminate points of failure, but if you are popping a 150 - 200+ amp fuse then you have an issue and probably something you need to check before racing.

One spark is all it needs to start a fire but what a bout a few meters of 2 gauge wire shorting out? you wont need fuel leaking for that fire to start.

Yes a kill switch is a good idea, but what if the short occurs before the kill switch?

Originally Posted by Moclov

For the cost of a fuse, I don't see why you wouldn't

:thumbsup:


There is another good tutorial here: http://forums.sqnz.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=271 (but you will need to sign up)

[chuckles2]

there are heaps of cars with battery in boot factory that dont run a fuse inline untill the fusable links in the engine bay,

my 0gauge battery cable is out of a late model merc we wrecked at my old work, so i got it free

[Horny_Devil]

Originally Posted by dazznz

When you are racing you try and minimise things that could possibly go wrong and cause a problem during a race. If you had to miss a race because a stupid fuse blew it would be a pain in the arse. and besides it only takes one spark to start a fire, and chances are that will be the first one that blows the fuse anyway, so your fucked either way. Kill switch ftw.

but u have a fuze there anyways, so what does it matter if u move it closer to the battery, ur point is mute

[crx_bob]

This is becoming a good arguement, and I'm really surprised that people are not running a fuse right by the battery. 8O
For all of you that dont have a fuse by the battery try breaking the insulation anywhere along that 2mtr legenth before the factory fuse and touch it to the body of the car, see what happens.
Insulation can wear from vibration etc and although it doesn't happen often it does happen.
Yeah a battery isolation kill switch is the best option for a race car but if it doesn't isolate near the battery then the cable shorting in an acident is still going to short.

Link for the non belivers

[grandell]

Originally Posted by dazznz

When you are racing you try and minimise things that could possibly go wrong and cause a problem during a race. If you had to miss a race because a stupid fuse blew it would be a pain in the arse. and besides it only takes one spark to start a fire, and chances are that will be the first one that blows the fuse anyway, so your fucked either way. Kill switch ftw.

If you're that worried about blowing fuses you could always use a circut breaker instead

For the cost of a fuse compared to setting your car on fire, i know what i'd rather do

[SK1TZ- EF]

I havent seen the link, but shit I just realised I dont have the Black outer shell on mine, just the rubber outer... 8O

shit looks like I got another job to do......

sam

[Bl4ckt0p]

For the people that believe in fuses what kind would you go?Im going to be putting mine in the boot soon. Im pretty sure my old eg didnt have a fuse but im going to look at putting one in the ef. Just see it as id rather be safe than sorry. Would a fuse off an amp be suitable or something else?

[SK1TZ- EF]

I think you need a massive breaker as the current draw is massive for starting etc

sam

[crx_bob]

PM Fr3ek he should be able to help as is into Audio wireing etc.

[grandell]

Just get a fuse the same size as the factory one
It may even be possible to reuse the factory one and move it with the battery...

Or just go to a car stereo shop/repco etc and get a big ANL fuse holder

Originally Posted by dragon

There is another good tutorial here: http://forums.sqnz.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=271 (but you will need to sign up)

x2

[itsjdm]

i can supply 2 gauge wire.

[Horny_Devil]

the factory fuse is 80amps (EG)

for the distance ur traveling id go for 1 gague bigger than a wire that is rated at 80 amps.

2awg will work but 1awg is better

[d16a7]

OOOK bringing this back up


went to BOC

per meter...

35 is $10 + GST
50 is $15 + GST

so youd need 5 meters so youd roughly be looking at $60 for 35... which is 225 amps...

or could go for the slightly bigger one...

[SLOTEG]

Originally Posted by d16a7

or could go for the slightly bigger one...

bigger is ALWAYS better
im running the thicker wire, no problems at all
best be safe than sorry mang

[d16a7]

well after seeing the CCA rating of my battery being at 440 amps.. i believe that il probably go for the 50... should be AMPLE to power the starter motor...

[d16a7]

well today went to BOC and got the 50mm2 one...

and have done mine

after a little issue of it not starting and me goin absolutely mental.. i found out i forgot to plug the ECu in