N/A or Forced Induction?

[XPLOIT]

This is not a debate on which is better but more along the lines of what I should do???

Some time early next year I will be inheriting an x amount of dollars..... and I feel it maybe enough to Forced Induct my CL1 Euro R. Not exactly sure though.

However, my problem is, If I Forced Induct, I will feel like I have given in. I am a huge N/A fan.

Shall I Forced Induct? Or can someone help me with a run down on stages to a mad N/A tune H22A.

Thanks guys,

[Logger]

Supercharger perhaps?

[XPLOIT]

Yea, I just edited it

N/A or Forced Induction???

[Hayce]

FI
N/A is for stubborn people that waste alot of money and make half the power, choice :thumbsup:

[mit5u]

FI seems kinda wrong on a Euro R...

how extreme would you be going? sleeve the block and run forgies? or just a light amount of boost on the stock block?

[Logger]

Originally Posted by Hayce

FI
N/A is for stubborn people that waste alot of money and make half the power, choice :thumbsup:

I'm going to backtrack on everything I've said about FI and agree with Hayce here. If you're prepared to put some money into a decent setup then FI is a good way to make power.

[nva2nd]

Originally Posted by Hayce

FI
N/A is for stubborn people that waste alot of money and make half the power, choice :thumbsup:

Keep It N/A put a computer in it if you havent already do a really nice tune.

And leave it like that for a while.

That way you can get some more go go out of it. And if need be and you do FI a MINT n/a engine your've got a aftermarket ecu already.

[crx_bob]

Personal choice would be to go down the supercharger option, gives one hell of a point of difference to your car from all the others.

I can suggest an engine builder who is currently S/C ing an H22A if you need someone to do the build for you.

[BB4lude]

well after making the decision myself to go FI il be responsible and say put it towards a house but if your using it for your car id first decide on what power and times you want if its anything real quick then definatly FI it will work out easier and cheaper for the same power level and have potential for much more later if you want it ........ and you will if your anything like me lol just my opinion but thats the way i went and glad i did although i do want a hardcore NA screamer one day something about thems just so appealing cheers ben

[d16a7]

well if i was you id Sell the euro R motor Forge a standard h22a and boost that... that way youd have a little more money too...

but then again i am more leaned towards F/I

[Bigelboe]

Originally Posted by d16a7

well if i was you id Sell the euro R motor Forge a standard h22a and boost that... that way youd have a little more money too...

but then again i am more leaned towards F/I

Have to sleeve it too if you go for forgies, starts getting expensive real quick

[Shadow Sol]

H22 = stay N/a or run a super charger on a 4/6 psi pulley set up - if you turbo it you'll want to up the boost abit more then pop goes the internals and H22's need sleeves for forged internals.

sell the H22aR and do a K Swap :wink:

[XPLOIT]

I think if I was to go FI, it would be on a basic set-up with lowish boost.

There is a budget, I didnt win lotto

I think supercharged would be my choice of FI, but then again The sound of a hard working N/A engine really does it for me. Also the reliability and generally, the economy. But the easier power from FI is the tempting part.

CRX_BOB, Who is building that engine and do you know much about it or how much its costing?

Cheers for the comments!


MMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmm............ K swap........ N/A???

[BTLF3D]

FI, good tune = will most likely run for ages 8)

[Shadow Sol]

do none of you work????
haha

[BTLF3D]

Originally Posted by Shadow Sol

do none of you work????
haha

lunch break

[Logger]

Originally Posted by Shadow Sol

do none of you work????
haha

Exams, have one at 2:30 today.

[Shadow Sol]

fair enough - im between jobs

start new one next week

[crx_bob]

Originally Posted by XPLOIT

CRX_BOB, Who is building that engine and do you know much about it or how much its costing?

North Canterbury Motor Reconditioners
98 Williams St Kaiapoi 0-3-327 9597

Also builds performance race engines.
Owners name is Rod Clarke he is using it for his offroader non euro H22A and aiming for about 500-600whp with S/C

So if you are after a low boost application he will have no issues what so ever.
Im giving him my B16a2 after Christmas to follow similar lines just not quite as insane, boost the delsol for a bit of fun.

As for cost I haven't spoken to him about this part much but the build won't be too bad, main cost will be in computer and tuning.

Edited to clarify/ he is runing high boost so for a low boost option for XPLOIT he will have all H22A pitfalls (if any) sorted

[Hayce]

Originally Posted by crx_bob

Owners name is Rod Clarke he is using it for his offroader non euro H22A and aiming for about 500-600whp with S/C
So for a low boost application he will have no issues what so ever.

I got confused here... Thats not a low boost application and if you wernt referring to it as such you didn't give anything to back up your second statement.

There seems to be a general census that the SC has less scope for problems than turbo, this is not true, they are both a boosted application and as such will have similar scope to bust themselves of course they differ slightly do to with heat and bottom end stress etc but don't tout SC being more reliable than turbo.

Decide if you want FI or NA then decide which flavor of FI you want. Theres a load of information for both camps out there, my opinion is its a great system for a larger displacement motor but not the go for smaller capacity's.

K is a nice (the best?) NA option on offer but bang for buck it loses.

[Horny_Devil]

NA, chuck in some stage 2 cams and a few other goodies and give it a tune and away u go, will sound mint

Originally Posted by Shadow Sol

do none of you work????
haha

I work 7-1

dit: as for what lance has said: SC's they run into a big problem, its called heat, they really have a maximum cealing of about 10-12psi on a roots style blower. and 10psi is probably good for about 70-80hp

[VTAKYO]

Stay NA man :thumbsup: much more satisfaction in beating a turbo Nissan/Toyota/Mitsi with an NA engine. Easy way of thinking about it!

I work random Thurs-Sun nights (5-3am, 7-3am, 5-9, whatever gets thrown at me).

[crx_bob]

Sorry Hayce edited for you, hope it makes more sense.

[Logger]

Originally Posted by VTAKYO

Stay NA man :thumbsup: much more satisfaction in beating a turbo Nissan/Toyota/Mitsi with an NA engine. Easy way of thinking about it!

On the track aye Chris?

[K_ma23]

Originally Posted by nva2nd

Keep It N/A put a computer in it if you havent already do a really nice tune.

And leave it like that for a while.

That way you can get some more go go out of it. And if need be and you do FI a MINT n/a engine your've got a aftermarket ecu already.

What he's said. Get rid of the stupid ecu in the euro-r and tune first before you decide to do anything else.

The among of money you are likely going to have to invest in it. Apart from putting a turbo in, how much more effort do you have to put in to keep those front wheels griping the road once you go boost?
If you want to go light boost without having to go through any mayjor internal work then you still best to lower the c/p ratio which totally destroys the porpose of an NA Euro-r engine. In return, you are going to enjoy the extra torque for the first a couple of days (also the frustration of worse traction + fuel consumption) then you will get use to everything again. You might not push the car as hard or as often as you use to because you worry about blowing your engine and finally you cant stand it any more and decide you want to sell the car and buy something else.

Or you can invet in other assets like houses and you get much more return after some time later and you can get much faster cars but lets dont go that far.

As long as you are happy with it and if you really want to go FI then i say go for Supercharge :thumbsup: