Here's a challenge!! Clutch shudder with 1 y.o. clutch

Hey guys, here's a challenge for ya!

Any help would be hugely appreciated!!!!

1991 EF Civic GTI, D16a.

Clutch was replaced a year, 20,000km ago.
Last clutch was the original, lasted 140 000km, so I'm sure it isn't worn out again!! It will never slip no matter how hard you launch it.

Over the past few months, it has begun to shudder, but not consistently like a worn clutch.

When it starts shuddering, it does so repeatedly until the end of the trip. The shutter usually occurs between 1000 - 2000 revs, and seems to come in just as the clutch approaches being fully engaged(foot off clutch). Dash and steering wheel shake so badly coins fall out of the compartment.

Here are the times when it seems more likely to shudder.

-More often reverse, or hill starts, or especially reverse hillstarts at the end of a 30 minute drive.

-stop and go traffic, with very gentle clutching.

-Gentle take-offs, coming home from work after being parked for 9 hours, but rarely does it on the way to work.

Clutch was replaced by Hi-Tech Brake & Clutch Services, a reputable clutch and brake shop. They used Exedy clutch parts, and machined the flywheel. It was a dream for first 8 months, then has begun to shudder more and more often since. A return trip to them came up with two possibilities, either oil from the seal between clutch and engine, or engine mounts. But neither really satisfied the occasional nature of the shudder.


Thanks,
JD

[Pdu-NZ]

Either the flywheel wasnt machined right, overheating (ie slipping - but since its pretty new I doubt it), or the rear main seal on the engine is leaking oil onto the clutch will make it slip/grab/slip/grab - which will make it shudder...

[KwS]

also check your engine mount bolts. My mates car (a toyota, but hey) actually had a couple of loose mount bolts which made the car shudder, mainly on takeoff though.

[Pnut]

As PDU said, burning clutches from clutch slip causes heat to go out into the flywheel and pressure plate, both can get hot spots in the steel which can "heat treat" the metal causing hardened spots. Harder spots won't wear the same as the rest of the metal, the softer parts wear away leaving the harder spot sitting proud and causing shuddering as it tries to engage. You should have the flywheel machined every time you change the clutch, and even if you did if they didn't machine away enough the hard spots will soon be exposed again. Hard spots can be quite deep if the clutch was slipping enough.

The bolts can work loose, though thats pretty rare. Its not like they are done up that tight, only about 20-30Nm from memory which is stuff all but they don't really work loose very often.

[deedubz]

mine does this too but only on uphill reverse and when its cold. the steering wheel shakes soo bad. Sometimes I overcome this by applying more gas on the pedal. Engine mount?

[trend.whore]

Originally Posted by deedubz

mine does this too but only on uphill reverse and when its cold. the steering wheel shakes soo bad. Sometimes I overcome this by applying more gas on the pedal. Engine mount?

Mine is fucked as well, but I'm sure it's a fucked clutch in my case..Pdu-NZ seems to know what he's on about

[CozmoNz]

haha, any chance its 4wd

my mates corolla 2 (4wd) shudders like a mofo.... but since they never made many at all... they never got it right... so, he just lives with it. and does 4wd launches

[trend.whore]

lol no gti isnt 4wd

I've been noticing it never shudders during the early stages of the first drive of the day, but will often shudder if the car has been parked for a couple of hours and then driven.

Does this help?
Could it be Engine mounts?
Oil seal?
Flywheel?

[chuckles2]

i would look closly at engine mounts if I was you.

Check all bolts and visually check the rubber.

[HRT]

Spigot bearing replaced when the clutch was done? Can usually hear that before it goes, might be another option though.

[aazaa]

ok, well i dont know what your problem could be, but id take it back to the guys that did the work for ya and see what the story is...

but on another note, when i drive my car, as soon as my car breaks into wheelspin (on the greasy auckland roads thismorning on my way to work For example) My car inside feels like its jumping up and down, foot nowhere near the clutch... any ideas anyone... it has done over 200,000k....
im thinking clutch but, i never have any problems with it at all...

[tianporn]

Originally Posted by aazaa

but on another note, when i drive my car, as soon as my car breaks into wheelspin (on the greasy auckland roads thismorning on my way to work For example) My car inside feels like its jumping up and down, foot nowhere near the clutch... any ideas anyone... it has done over 200,000k....
im thinking clutch but, i never have any problems with it at all...

Axle tramp

[trend.whore]

Originally Posted by aazaa

ok, well i dont know what your problem could be, but id take it back to the guys that did the work for ya and see what the story is...

but on another note, when i drive my car, as soon as my car breaks into wheelspin (on the greasy auckland roads thismorning on my way to work For example) My car inside feels like its jumping up and down, foot nowhere near the clutch... any ideas anyone... it has done over 200,000k....
im thinking clutch but, i never have any problems with it at all...

Yeh mine does that too sometimes, I'm guessing its somewhat normal?

[aazaa]

Originally Posted by trend.whore

Yeh mine does that too sometimes, I'm guessing its somewhat normal?

Must be an EG thing... as to what tian said Whats the cheapest and easiest way to counter this.... for us poor people that get paid near minimum wage...

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by tianporn

Axle tramp

Usually caused by poor rebound dampening, i.e you likely need new shocks.