Adjusting tappets in B16A

[JJ]

Hi - just need to do a lil tuning to my B16A, and need to know a couple of things such as tappet settings how to go about setting them - is there a site that will tell me all this or can someone give me the settings because i know basically how to do it, but if theres anything special that needs to be done with these motors would be good to know - cheers Josh

[Xsi]

Here you go: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/v...alveadjust.php

[JJ]

thanks heaps for that man - all the info i need and some - legend!

[Vtec-r]

just a question out of interest: Why or When would you need to do a valve adjustment?

[Tofu]

Originally Posted by Vtec-r

just a question out of interest: Why or When would you need to do a valve adjustment?

noisy tappets maybe?

[JJ]

Originally Posted by Tofu

noisy tappets maybe?

exactly

[Tofu]

i heard u can also chuck this stuff in with ur oil and its suppose to stop the tapping sound.....i know its not eliminating the problem but yeah it gets rid of the noise.

Originally Posted by Tofu

i heard u can also chuck this stuff in with ur oil and its suppose to stop the tapping sound.....i know its not eliminating the problem but yeah it gets rid of the noise.

its called promo i think

[Matty]

ProMa MBL8. :wink:

Worked a treat on my old VR4. Gosh, a Mitsi with noisy tappets...who woulda thunk it?

[Ghost Rider]

it's cos vr's have hydraulic tappets run on hydraulic fluid. b series engines anyway have mecahnical ones i.e. you have to set them. thats why your vr stopped the tappet noise! Try that on a honda won't make any difference! =) just thout i'd save ya 20 bucka

[Pnut]

Originally Posted by Ghost Rider

it's cos vr's have hydraulic tappets run on hydraulic fluid

The "hydraulic fluid" is your engine oil, another good reason why to change it regularly and give the engine the odd flush.

Gapping your tappets is pretty simple a job, you need a cold engine as the gap is expansion allowance for when the engine is hot to ensure that the valves close fully when hot. If you do them up too tight then when it gets warm the valves won't close properly and you will loose compression and will get burnt valve seats, which will need refacing to make it seal again properly $$$. The tapping sound is the rocker arm "slapping" between the cam lobe and the valve stem top because it is too loose. Note also that the exhaust side gap is typically larger tolerance as the valve gets hotter than the intake.

This is how i do it:
1. park car on a flat surface with clearance in front and behind of the car and have the hand brake off with the keys in your pocket and NOT in the ignition.
2. when engine is cold remove rocker cover and any other cables in the way.
3. select the right combinations of feeler/slip gauges so you have the max clearance and min clearance sticking out.
4. with the car in about 3rd gear rock the car so that the lobe on the intake cam is pointing towards the bonnet and there is max clearance between the rocker and the cam lobe.
5. attempt to slip the larger of the feeler settings in to the gap between the cam lobe and the rocker follower.
5.a) If it slips in easily then you will need to adjust it, if not refer 5.b. to adjust loosen the locknut on the opposite end of the rocker arm and use a flat screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise untill the larger of the feeler guages can not slip in but the smaller setting can. Make sure you tighten the lock nut again after. Recheck with the feeler gauges again to make sure the screw hasn't moved when tightening the lock nut or the slack in threads.
5.b) If the larger feeler gauge does not fit in check the smaller of the feeler gauge settings. If the smaller fits it is all good and you can move on to 6. , if it does not you need to loosen the locknut on the opposite end of the rocker arm and use a flat screwdriver to turn the screw anticlockwise untill the larger of the feeler guages can not slip in but the smaller setting can. Make sure you tighten the lock nut again after. Recheck with the feeler gauges again to make sure the screw hasn't moved when tightening the lock nut or the slack in threads.
6. rock the car in one direction to rotate the engine and cams untill the next intake lobe is pointing at the bonnet . . .

Follow this same proceedure for each lobe on each cam untill they are all within the tolerance. It is best to start with the intake valves and when they are all checked move on to the exhaust. Also i have heard some say rocking your car in gear like this is not that good for your cam belt (no different to starting your car to me) so if you are feeling paranoid at all you can turn the engine slowly with a rachet on the front pulley nut or something like that.

I would have posted some links to show the parts or what ever but couldn't find any, so if anyone else has some to post put them here

Disclaimer disclaimer blah blah blah i take all care and no responcibility :wink:

[JJ]

its a lot easier if you have the special tool that honda makes for this btw - had some real problems getting that lock nut off! but following the instructions on that site that Xsi posted i was able to adjust them - cheers

[Ghost Rider]

just get an old 10m and weld it once a piece of hex brass that you have drillled a hole through. it's easy then! =)
cost hmm $2 cheaper than honda tool does same job =)

[Xsi]

My car came with the tappet adjusting tool

[JJ]

yea i just got an old 12mm spanner and bent it - still not quite as easy as the real thing tho - but then yea better than paying $100 for the proper one

[Pnut]

what special tool?

Sounds like a waste of money to me, works fine with a ring spanner and screwdriver

[iceboy]

once adjusted, does the noise stop completely or just become quieter?
(not that it is of any consequence, just wondering)

[JJ]

on mine it just quietened them

[Pnut]

Just quietens them, you will never totally get rid of the ticking sound as you must have even a small clearance between the rocker and the cam/valve to allow for expansion and to ensure that the valve totally closes. Also most injectors make a small ticking sound which can be mistaken for the tappits.

[Boost Junky]

where can i get a set of these feeler gauges, how long does this take and what happens if i do it wrong

[Pnut]

Originally Posted by vtec.stz

where can i get a set of these feeler gauges

any engineering supplier, repco, etc. Common as :wink:

Originally Posted by vtec.stz

how long does this take and what happens if i do it wrong

That is sort of "How long is a peice of string?". Depends how mechanically minded you are, if you aren't sure then set aside 2-3hours. As long as you can slip the correct feeler between the lobe and the rocker you won't have any problems as far as valve sealing or piston clearance goes. If it is too loose then it will be rattly to hear when it is warm, and may loose some power and not idle right.

I must admit after reading back through this i havent had to set any on a vtec engine before, but i can't imagine they would be too much different. The theory would still be the same but the adjustment steps might be a little different. :wink:

[Boost Junky]

sweet, mine are rattly as mite do em this week but fuck buying feeler gauges waste of money

[tarkiwi]

And just make extra sure you tighten up the locknuts! Last time I did mine, next day when I was driving around the car started making a horrible very loud rattling noise. Took the rocker cover off & one of the adjusters was missing its locknut :!: ops:

[Boost Junky]

shit man better make sure i do that lol

[JJ]

from memory when i adjusted mine bein a vtec, they required 2 stages of adjustment - one for the first lobe on the cam, and one for the second on each of the 4 cylinders