Performance gain from headers and intake?

[p2pwn]

I haven't got much to spend, probably around $600 at the most.

I've got an absolutely stock DC2R, what should I upgrade?

I was thinking about getting a cheap 4-2-1 headers from trademe and a whale penis carbon fibre intake.

How much performance gain would I be looking at?

And would the 4-2-1 headers increase my exhaust noise, because I want a bit more sound but not wanting to change my whole exhaust system.

[StealthCF4]

I would think you would get more of a gain from a good exhaust and intake, rather than headers and intake. Plus it would be cheaper. Good headers that will make good gains are quite expensive.

[b16a2]

you will get gains from headers and stock exhaust, but will see alot more esp top end with proper exhaust, should really start from the outside and work your way in as a rule of thumb, but that said theres other things that play roles like wanting a quiet car, also make sure you get your cat out, just replace with test pipe, as thats probably the most restricitve thing in the system, oh and yes get an intake, its a bit of a bone for contention which works best, so just get something

[4VTECN]

headers and intake seem the way to go, IMO I actually think the short air intakes like the simota ones perform better than the whale penis and are cheaper as well, but yeah you should be able to pick up some TRR or pro1 headers for about the $350 mark and about $100 for a simota intake and pod or $250 for a whale penis

[Robbie]

ideally I/H/E

but IMO the headers would be last thing, is it 96 or 98 spec? if 98spec then absolutly no need to change headers.....

there may be a cheap exhaust and headers going thru strongs in auckland very soon(my old ones)
buddy clup pro spec ehxaust, bit noisy, but not really bad and great gains!

whale penis are expensive, if you on budget, dont spend all you money on that, just a decent simota pipe and pod(adam at FBI can help there) will do the trick, add a bit of ducting from front bumper to get some cold air to!!

[mr_tec]

$600 should get you an exhaust sure theres a few on here that will fit for cheaper
or a set of headers that are okish but not omfg awsome

cheap 4-2-1 headers from trademe

will most likely lose u power because there cheap and most like shiney

intakes go for alright price these days you can get whale penis intakes for about 135 not carbon or carbon fibre for about 240ish or a shiney simota intake arm and pod for about 110max

[p2pwn]

Wow. Fast replies, and mine's a 98 spec, so there's no need to change headers? Cool, great!

Yeah so I might just get a simota intake and a exhaust then, hopefully i'll notice a difference

[b_series_power]

i have some top branded headers for sale for cheap pm me if you keen

[Robbie]

98spec headers=4>1 headers which are identical design to mugen, just a little heavier, so power wise no different between factory and MUGEN

hmm, brand new that buddy club exhaust i bought was $790 from 41auto, so i would guess that it will be going for a pretty cheap price.. if you want a slightly noisy(right on legal limit) then its a great upgrade, sounds mean and goes much better

[p2pwn]

@Robbie, sounds like a great idea, exhaust and intake it is then

I might take my car to a tuner and get it lowered too, its on adjustables

[Robbie]

if its on adjustables, its pretty easy to lower yourself(if you have some axel stands etc.) just make ure you keep each side even and your sused!

[4VTECN]

^^Im sure it isnt that hard to do yourself

[888]

If you do change your header to 4-2-1 for the that low and mid range power I would be keen on your 98Spec header Pm me to sort something out

I would say go for something good known branded specially headers and go from there

[Coupe-R]

honda didn't spend $$$ making the 98 spec headers perform well on the motor for nothing

Even my hytech headers BEARLY beat them, and only right up top.

GOOD 2.5" system helps out the ITR MUCH more than going from 98 spec headers to something else.

Also the plastic intake pipe and airbox is pretty good, maybe just remove one part of the airbox for that MEAN sound hehe

[tysonzane]

Yeah i think you should leave the stock air box. The DC2R air box is pretty damn awesome. Just take out the resonator in the bumper and maybe cut the pipe near the bottom. Then just add a high flow filter and you'll be away laughing. Lots more torque compared to alot of the pod setups (wont sound as racey but it is better). If money allows later down the track buy a Mugen intake, thats pretty much one of the only intakes that will beat the factory setup.

Spend the money on a good exhaust. Buy an aftermarket one which has had abit of R & D so you know its good like Spoon, Buddyclub, Mugen etc.

[Pommy]

^^ what he said

getyting a shiney intake arm with a simota podfilter isnt going to help AT ALL if its sitting there in the bay getting all hot.. sound better but will likely decrease performance, put all your money into an exhaust, spend abit on a k&n panel filter and 10 bucks on ducting from the front bumper vent into the factory airbox. Thats what id do anyway.

[WingIt]

Originally Posted by Robbie

if 98spec then absolutly no need to change headers.....

Everyone seems to say this but is there any proof? Stock for stock a 96 spec and 98spec make the same power.

I have a 98spec and next on my list is some new headers.

I did J's Intake, Mugen Exhaust and J's Test pipe and got 130.5kw atw, after you do that get a tune as the AFR is all over the place and the torque curve is not ideal

[tysonzane]

Originally Posted by WingIt

Everyone seems to say this but is there any proof? Stock for stock a 96 spec and 98spec make the same power.

I have a 98spec and next on my list is some new headers.

I did J's Intake, Mugen Exhaust and J's Test pipe and got 130.5kw atw, after you do that get a tune as the AFR is all over the place and the torque curve is not ideal

Because its the same as Mugen, nuff said. Yeah all the 96 spec owners wank on about how 98 and 96 are the same but really the 98 spec headers would see a 5hp gain on top of the 96. 96 spec owners will then say "but oh the 96 spec head is hand bored etc so is better", but Honda went to machinary boring the ports because it was more accurate and more consistant so sorry 96 people, a stock 98 wins.

Oh and heres the proof:

http://bob123e.tripod.com/thegreatheadertest/

Alot of the best aftermarket headers are only narowlly better then the 98 spec, nothing to write home about anyway.

Spoon makes most torque heh

[Dionysus]

Get a spoon filter and omni test pipe, should do the trick and leave plenty of monies for other things!

[Robbie]

test pipe wont do much without full exhaust

[tysonzane]

Originally Posted by Robbie

test pipe wont do much without full exhaust

Test pipe is a bloody nice gain over factory especially because the factory Type R exhausts are already pretty damn decent.

[Robbie]

oh, my bad then.... i just thought a good flowing exhaust would do better....

[tysonzane]

Originally Posted by Robbie

oh, my bad then.... i just thought a good flowing exhaust would do better....

A test pipe or gutting the cat will make a good flowing standard exhaust . Especially if the car has done over 100,000 km. My mother had an oddy that did over 200,000 km and it wasn't running too flash so i gutted the cat and it felt like a new car, engine was really responsive and gained a few ponies everywhere. Had a nasty resonce at high revs though.

One of those really good free or cheap mods.

[WingIt]

I gained 3.5kw by removing my cat, same dyno

[Robbie]

Originally Posted by WingIt

I gained 3.5kw by removing my cat, same dyno

wow, i am amazed there is that much to gain.... haha and to think i traded a test pipe for a strut brace when i had my ITR