new Hytec Style 4-2-1 question

[freshup]

I have just installed the headers today with the flywheel guard taken off, on my ITR however the slipjoints doesn't close properly is that normal? when i put my fingers close to the slip joints i could feel air coming out of it.
I think i got ripped and brought a fake hytec style i dunno ay is there anyway i can tell if it real or fake because on the headers it doesn't have any logo or hytec on it.

it also makes a loud as rattle noise it makes me scared that the thing is gonna fall apart and explode because of the slip joint prob.

[freshup]

brought it from speed factor
Honda Hytec style B series header for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand

[Horny_Devil]

what was wrong with ur other thread about these headers??

and how can u buy a fake hytec style header? they arent the genuine item in the first place hence the word style in the title

[DURTYEF3]

Originally Posted by Horny_Devil

what was wrong with ur other thread about these headers??

and how can u buy a fake hytec style header? they arent the genuine item in the first place hence the word style in the title

was just thinking the same thing? its obviously a replica of the hytech,and quite possibly not made to the exact measurements.

None the less. still looks the biz

[freshup]

arr fuck i thought hytec style was the brand name lol!!!!!!! and i paid 790 for those! do u guys rekon it's worth that much even if its not geniune?

[MMJA]

Dude $790 is pretty cheap for a set of brand new headers. Most of the cheaper brands are around $900 (DC sports etc.) and the high end JDM brands are well over $1100 (Spoon, BuddyClub, Toda etc.)

[Looney_Head]

damn thats a good price. what did you have on there before?
i would like to know the results

[berman]

#1, Nobody on this site has ever sold genuine Hytech headers. Hytech headers from the USA cost upwards of 1500 dollars US*, and then freight.

#2, Yes they are copies, but they are very good/well built copies, that make great power.

#3, You need to put copper paste on the slipjoints on most sets to stop them from leaking. I had to, it's no biggie. Just dont pull them fully apart, as they are a mish to put back together (with the paste aswell). Just wipe the headers down with some white spirits after so you dont get hand prints everywhere.

Definitely the best bang for buck header out there.



* from memory, correct me if I'm wrong

[freshup]

Originally Posted by berman

#1, Nobody on this site has ever sold genuine Hytech headers. Hytech headers from the USA cost upwards of 1500 dollars US*, and then freight.

#2, Yes they are copies, but they are very good/well built copies, that make great power.

#3, You need to put copper paste on the slipjoints on most sets to stop them from leaking. I had to, it's no biggie. Just dont pull them fully apart, as they are a mish to put back together (with the paste aswell). Just wipe the headers down with some white spirits after so you dont get hand prints everywhere.

Definitely the best bang for buck header out there.



* from memory, correct me if I'm wrong

ok i feel much better now but the headers are already in my car
also what do u think of welding all the 4 slip joints together?

[freshup]

Originally Posted by Looney_Head

damn thats a good price. what did you have on there before?
i would like to know the results

i had Jasma Mugen 4-1s bfore ay didnt wanted high end torque so i got these hytec style 4-2-1

[berman]

welding them would be a mission as the four primaries where the slip join is are very close together, i doubt you would get weld in the middle.

[freshup]

oh tru so for the copper paste would i have to pull a bit out an put them around it then push the joints together?

[Coupe-R]

Yeh I used permatex ultra copper

pulled em apart, cleane. Put a bead of it around each pipe and put back together (its a mish to get em back together cause they made em fit like utter ass) So you can do what berman suggested (not apart all the way)

[jak]

so has you mid-range power gone better compared to your Mugen?

[freshup]

thx for all the info guys regarding these headers

[freshup]

Originally Posted by jak

so has you mid-range power gone better compared to your Mugen?

yip it has and it has a sexy as roaring rattle sound too i love it

[Demon]

Originally Posted by jak

so has you mid-range power gone better compared to your Mugen?

you will have more mid-range torque with 4-2-1's as apposed to 4-1's, i have/had 4-2-1's on my DA and im switching to 4-1's

[[QUIKdc2]]

Anyone who have swapped from PRO1 headers to Hytech (Neil????) It the header longer?? (Ie the collecter further towards the rear of the car??)

Im looking at upgrading very soon.

[Coupe-R]

It was much longer on my Hytech ones vs the 98 4-1.

So yeh you need to cut your exhaust and weld the flange on further down the exhaust

[22]

What would these be like on a B16?

[b16a2]

u have more top end on the 4-1s?

[22]

Im looking for mid-range.. well technically a b16 isn't the best engine, but I just want some nice headers

[jpar196]

I used these headers and got a good increase over the 98 spec headers I had before. seat dyno ofcourse

[EVLTEK FBI AKL]

these headers would be too hard core for B16 - I think you would probably lose power over any aftermarket option. Unless of course yours is all rebuilt madly.......

the small tube are recommended for high comp B18C or ITR setup with cams - and the big tube for Super hard core B18 or B20 high comp etc

[jpar196]

yep using them on b18cr FYI, normal tube, still quite large diameters. may be too big for b16 as pointed out