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Old 11th March 2008, 11:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
bmgjet
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Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

Well I didn't have a dyno so I used my Ass Dyno + timing up to 100.

First I tryed the Manual ECU and drove around a bit to see if it would throw any check lights, Strangely it felt much smother on gear changes and vtec you couldn't even tell that it had changed over apart from my vtec light coming on.

No checks came up after 10 mins so I went out to the farm road that I do my 0-100 on quite often. First run I got 8.72 second run 8.60 and third 8.95.

I pulled over to the side of the road unplugged the battery and swooped my auto ecu back in and did the same, First run 6.89 second run 7.21 third run 7.11, Vtec was backing to being very feel able at 4300rpm instead of 5000rpm on the manual and gear changes went back to being very slippy.

I also observed that with the manual ecu it felt flat from 700-3000rpm and smelt like it was running very rich but the power felt smoth from there on, where with the auto ecu thats where most the power is then it drops off and come back on vtec.

This was tested with b16a Auto cams, Ill do another test when I get my CTR cams in, I suspect that the manual ecu will work better with them.

Yeah yeah I know I should stick a manual in but I need to get around to rebuilding my LSD box.
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Old 11th March 2008, 12:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would have been very very surprised if it was faster on the manual ecu... especially as u mentioned auto /manual cams are different for stock ecu.

good info for reference in comparison to the ctr cams, and ultimately when u convert to manual

to be honest I don't think the CTR cams will make toomuch of a difference with the auto box and the manual ECU. you will probably find the auto ecu to still be faster, being naturally tuned for the transmission.

do auto and manual b16a bave same redline? or is auto lower (i don't know people with autos even my sister won't drive one, but she should!!)
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Old 11th March 2008, 03:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah auto and manual redlines are different, as well as auto cams are slightly less agressive and vtec comes in lower (in da shape integras anyways)
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Old 11th March 2008, 06:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yip its a DA6, Looking through google people with auto b16a's usaly gain 8hp from just using manual b16a cam so the CTR ones should give me a bit more then that.
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Old 11th March 2008, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The CTR cams will run best with the VTEC set at 5800, so you might find there will be a dead spot in the power range when your ecu engages VTEC until 5800 rpm.
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Old 13th March 2008, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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fueling and timing are nearly identical with the auto/manual P30 B16A2 ECU's.

lower redline point, i believe the vtec point is still 5800rpm on the auto ecu.

is on my EG6 auto
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Old 14th March 2008, 12:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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mine were PR3 ECUs OBD0 and the vtec light came on at 4300rpm with the auto ecu and 5000rpm with the manual.

Also compareing some old b16a auto cams to my old b16a manual cams the vtec lobes on the auto cams are just a tiny bit bigger then the normal lobes on the manual cams.

The manual normal lobes would be just in between the size or the vtec and normal ones on the auto and the vtec ones on the manual were way bigger. Ill unwrap my CTR ones tomorrow and have a look at them.
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Old 25th March 2008, 12:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just changed over to the CTR cams today and have been doing some tests.


Did a few runs in the morning before I changed them to set a base line for how my car exactly was running.

I had sounds in and couldnt be bothred taking them out but my times were.

7.51,7.50,7.55 with auto ecu and cams in the morning and ignition timing fully retarded.

6.44,6.49,6.46 with auto ecu and CTR cams with ignition timing fully retarded.

The power band feels much driffent now, Car feels dead slow up till 4g then feels good then at 5.6 it just goes nuts all the way to rev limit.

With auto cams it felt slow till 2G then went pritty good then vtec at 4200 but felt the same just change in sound the power died off at 6g till 7500 revlimit.

On hills with the CTR cams I have to put my foot down more then I use to other wise it starts slowing down.

Ill test the manual ECU latter on when im not feeling so sick.
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Old 25th March 2008, 01:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Why have you retarded your timing?
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Old 25th March 2008, 02:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Because I need a timing light to set it proply but dont have one right now.
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Old 25th March 2008, 05:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Heres what the difference looks like, 1 is about the same size as 5 and 6 when measuring with the eye. 5 and 6 are the same size even tho 6 looks slightly bigger its just the angle because stupid cam wouldnt work with the reflection straight on.
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Old 26th March 2008, 12:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just tryed the manual ECU again and its still much worse, Car almost stalls and takes 8 secs to get too 100
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Old 26th March 2008, 01:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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so to get this straight

you have a B16A1 with CTR cams untuned.
you also have a Auto trans?

If so then the car would go ALOT better with either one of those ecu's chipped and tuned.
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Old 26th March 2008, 01:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yip untuned b16a1 auto. Still the CTR cams make it feel way faster and I already had them so they didnt cost me anything.

Just some good info for people that are happy with a auto but still want a bit more power.

I dont really care if it kills my auto box, That might get me off my lazy a$$ and get my manual gearbox rebuilt and stuck in. Whats a Y1 cable LSD gear box worth these days might just buy a new one instead of rebuilding it if they dont cost too much.
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Old 27th March 2008, 08:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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you won't kill the auto box with a b16a1 and CTR cams unless you thrash the hell out of it.

You can't buy new B series gearboxes, and definatly not cable ones any more.

Remember your auto valve train is not as good as the manual and therefore putting those CTR cams in I wouldn't want to rev past the 7800 rev cut.

You would be best getting a type R valve train and adding cam gears, chipping and tuning the ECU and run to around 8500rpm.
should be easy more power in it. If you were local I could have sussed the tuning for you
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Old 27th March 2008, 03:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe-R
You can't buy new B series gearboxes, and definatly not cable ones any more.
pretty sure u can still get the type r box brand new
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Old 30th May 2008, 04:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
bmgjet
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Re: Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

finally done the conversion, Auto box wasnt pritty dead so I got around to it. 5.4sec to 100 but its alot harder timing by yourself with a manual. dropped stopwatch first try lol.

I see myself needing new tires soon lol wheel spin is unavoidable.

Next thing on list will be some BLOX HSL cams + valve springs and ti retainers.
Then ill throw my revlimit up about 8800rpm.

Auto ecu just throws check lights with manual box and its just a solid light so cant check up error code.
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Old 30th May 2008, 08:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Re: Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

thats because its giving an auto lockup soleniod code (auto not there anymore)

I can mod the ecu so it doesn't throw the code for $20

but then its still running auto maps.

Or could do a full tune
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Old 30th May 2008, 08:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Re: Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

have a look for a manual ecu
or get coupe-r to tune it as your running ctr cams anyways aint ya?
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Old 30th May 2008, 10:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Re: Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

yea iv got a manual ecu, its what im using now. I wont bother with a tune intill Iv done everything I want with my head. just need to find $1080 lol
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Old 30th May 2008, 11:10 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Re: Auto b16a, Auto ECU VS Manual ECU. My Comparaison.

car won't run right at all with that code, so swap the manual ECU in for now.
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