integra NA build

[vtir.dc2]

lol! na ah, ITR is above 11. dc2 non r = 10.6, b16a2 = 10.4.

and my nz new b18c2.... 10.0.1! yay!!

[Moclov]

F20B (SiR-T) = 11:1 *proud*

[Matty]

K20A = 11.5:1. :thumbsup:

[Moclov]

Show off...

[Ped Rac3r]

My Go-Ped (In avatar): 14:1

[vtir.dc2]

hmm i dont recall my thread being made for people to gloat about their engines' compression??

[Moclov]

Originally Posted by vtir.dc2

hmm i dont recall my thread being made for people to gloat about their engines' compression??

Terribly sorry Sir, didn't mean anything by it Sir, will refrain from frivolous conversation in the future Sir

[vtir.dc2]

wow, NZH's very own comedian.

[VTAKYO]

Originally Posted by Forum Rules

Do not post topics or replies containing:

Anything not relating to the original subject of the topic

Back on topic thanks...

[vtir.dc2]

last nights work





putting the valve keepers in - pain in the friggin ass.

intake side done (new blox dual valve springs and Ti retainers):



the valve stems, valve stem seals and the valve springs were didnt get lubed/oil put on them before they got put in....wil they be ok? will oil be able to get down into the valve stem seals now that theyre in?

[Ped Rac3r]

You should apply oil to all moving parts when assembling an engine. Otherwise when you start it up for the first time it could run "dry" until the oil has circulated. Really you should pull the valves out and apply a thin film of oil on them and slide them back in. The springs and retainers should be fine.

[starlet]

No you wont be able to get valve guide seals on now, u need to do them with valve springs out

[vtir.dc2]

Originally Posted by starlet

No you wont be able to get valve guide seals on now, u need to do them with valve springs out

i dont understand... The valve guide seals are already in..the valve train is fully assembled

[LS/VTEC]

wheres the updates at man, have u stop the mission

[Gudgen]

give us pics of the ports and combustion chamber..

[nocert]

no updates as of yet he went and picked up the bearings etc from honda wiri today. block is still in at reconditioners being bored 0.5mm oversize and honed, clearences checked, and they are most probably going to assemble the bottom end.

next:
we can take the head in and fit it, along with the cams and adjustable cam gears and get them to check the v/p clearence and set the cam gears.

then we will take it back and swap the engines over then its off to speedfactor, for installation of crome and a base tune.

[vtir.dc2]

cheers sean!!!!!! yea thats prety much all right. went to honda today and spent 400 on main and big ends and headgasket!!
but.. would it be cheaper to get some acl or king bearings which i can get all for like $100 and get the crank machined to fit them?

went into the rebulilders today to get bearing codes etc. and they have done the bore and hone and just waiting for me to drop off the bearings. oh and also they gave me the rods, so after uni i went and dropped them off at flightline aviation at the airport in admore to be shotpeened.
yep so thats whats happening lately, hasnt stopped at all!!! just abit slower as im trying to keep up with my uni work.
also have a 2.5 inch straight thru s/s exhaust on its way to nz now.
another thing is..what injectors should i be running?..for those of you that know my engine and what inside it.

[LS/VTEC]

u can get h22a injectors,or evo or gsr injectors. but u need a resistor pack

[vtir.dc2]

embarrased to say, i dont know what a resistor pack is lol. are cheap, easy to find? do i need one specificaly for a b18c etc ??

[Ped Rac3r]

How much is the .5mm oversizing costing you? PM me if you like.

[starlet]

sorry mis read ur post earlier

[vtir.dc2]

Originally Posted by Ped Rac3r

How much is the .5mm oversizing costing you? PM me if you like.

not exactly sure as im getting the honing, and balancing and clearances etc done also so im just paying it all as a total, but il be able to tell you when its done and ive got a receipt.

[NAspirated]

good to see my valve spring compressor was being used correctly aye sean :wink:


the CTR pistons, yes theyre heavier, yes they have a high dome, yes theyre "unfinished", yes, the flame front sucks.


Yes, they still make good power. BUT, Aftermarket has the POTENTIAL to make more.
lighter=faster revving.
correct flame travel=less timing to be pulled, better use of available mixture.

using a high overlap cam isnt a great idea with a high dome poston. generally causes the mixture to head straight out the exhaust as it hits the dome and aims straight for the still-open exhaust valve.

the C-speed calc isnt a good idea with the CTR's, as it doesnt take into account the compression height of the piston. The CTR's run a higher comp height than all the other B series pistons, the C-speed calc is off.

www.zealautowerks.com is the best calc on the net, and is 99% accurate.

generally for an N/A piston, you want the lowest dome height, with the highest comp height possible for your chosen cam. too many people build their internals (and externals), then pick a cam to go into it, when it should be the other way around.

I had a block bored and honed to .5mm over and cost me $180. cost $180 to bore to any size you like.

[nocert]

Originally Posted by NAspirated

good to see my valve spring compressor was being used correctly aye sean :wink:

damn straight is was

[vtir.dc2]

well ive ended up getting some king race bearings instead n gona take the oem ones back as i can save 200 bux which i rely need by using the Kings. had a long chat to the rebuiders first as i was sketchy about ditching oem n going for aftermarket ones as they wont fit like oem ones should, but rebuilders assured me its fine and theyl do the job well.
Thoughts?

btw, if anyones got sum h22a injectors, preferably 0bd2 (for the resistor pack) let me know, thnx