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| NA Tuning Discussion, problems, pitfalls, you can find everything at Pricemart! |
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Mod 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) | Unless you were doing it yourself - paying to have a gasket put in is not worth it at all. Taking an intake manifold off when motor still in car is a mission - by the time you do that, clean up the old gasket and put it all back together you will have spent at least $200 or so in labour, plus the gasket. If you are pulling a motor out of a car, or having to take the manifold off for another reason then a heat shield manifold of some description should be installed. I suggest anyone after proof should contact gizzmo directly. I think it is generally accepted that the Hondata ones are supseptable to burning/melting which a Gizzmo one has never done. I have used both and never had an issue with either - could I notice any power difference - no of course not. If there was jack all price diff between then two - Gizzmo would be the obvious choice.
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| | #27 (permalink) | |
| Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,249
Location: Auckland | Quote:
Thanks for that, I won't be bothering. | |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,012
Location: Pukekohe | I just brought a brand new one for $50 8) . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
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| | #29 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) | Just buy some phenolic resin board and cut it out yourself using the original one as a template. If your fussy or a pie-fingers with a dremel take a 1:1 scan of your original gasket and create a vector file from it and get the board laser cut. While you're at it get some washers cut out too for under the OEM washers to stop heat transfer throuh the bolt heads as Tysonzane has said. If you've gone to the trouble of getting one cut you might as well cut a whole lot and flog them off on tard-me to cover your costs and even make some pocket money. True Phenolic resin board wont melt, it's a fibre re-inforced thermoset so it'll burn before it melts. If you wanted to ensure a good seal and further heat transfer reduction, spray the board with two-pot platinum silicone on both sides and cure it on before you laser cut it. Silicone is an amazing heat insulator and will provide a rubber gasket layer at the same time. |
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| | #30 (permalink) | |
| Senior Member 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) | Quote:
__________________ 2003 S2000 Type-V. The S stands for slow | |
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| | #31 (permalink) | ||
| Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,012
Location: Pukekohe | Quote:
. I think a nut/bolt/tool shop across the road from papakura engineering will do them, but yeah i'll let you know.PS saw a dead dc2 in your driveway a week ago when driving past 8O
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| | #32 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 18,000rpm+ Honda F1! | you can get some red colourd fibre washers, in some of those nut and bolt kits. we use them at work on bolts to stop 2 metal parts rusting together. not sure how they would work on the intake manifold but they seem pretty deciant |
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| | #33 (permalink) | |||
| Senior Member 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) | Quote:
ops:
__________________ 2003 S2000 Type-V. The S stands for slow | |||
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| | #34 (permalink) | |
| Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,965
Location: Tauranga | Quote:
Contemplate this, The intake manifold studs touch the intake so what difference will washers do? Furthermore water still goes through your intake (unless you re-routed it completely) | |
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| | #35 (permalink) | ||
| Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,012
Location: Pukekohe | Quote:
You dont know till you try i guess...
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| | #36 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 336
Location: Christchurch | be anal and run both hondata and gizzmo gaskets. bound to stop more heat than just one gasket
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| | #37 (permalink) | ||
| Senior Member 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) | the gizzmo gasket i got came with plastic washers, but they crapped out. Quote:
)the gaskets do really make a big difference in temperature, with the stock gasket i wasnt able to touch the intake manifold after a hard drive. but with the gasket, i am able to touch and hold my hand on the intake manifold after a hard drive.
__________________ 2003 S2000 Type-V. The S stands for slow | ||
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| | #38 (permalink) | |
| Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) | Quote:
My Hondata melted and warped down aswell i have pics but there on the other computer
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| | #39 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,167
Location: Christchurch | seems to me the melting problem is resonably common.
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| | #40 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,228
Location: Waitakere | im a fence sitter. ive had a hondata for almost 5 years now and its still in good condition, a bit black around the intake runners but that is from oil. it is not melted at all. on the other side of the fence i use phenolic gaskets at work on million dollar jet engines that go to very high temperatures. phenolic has a higher temperature rating but is a bastard to work with and is VERY VERY bad for your lungs if sanded. VERY!. you could quite happily port a hondata one without a lung replacement.
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| | #41 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,228
Location: Waitakere | question for the melted guys: are you NA or turbo and did you ever overheat your engine?
__________________ 1985 CRX 12.73 @ 173KPH EF9 13.56 @ 162KPH NEVER BRING SHOW TO A GO FIGHT. |
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