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Old 6th August 2007, 10:21 AM   #26 (permalink)
EVLTEK FBI AKL
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Unless you were doing it yourself - paying to have a gasket put in is not worth it at all.

Taking an intake manifold off when motor still in car is a mission - by the time you do that, clean up the old gasket and put it all back together you will have spent at least $200 or so in labour, plus the gasket.

If you are pulling a motor out of a car, or having to take the manifold off for another reason then a heat shield manifold of some description should be installed.

I suggest anyone after proof should contact gizzmo directly.

I think it is generally accepted that the Hondata ones are supseptable to burning/melting which a Gizzmo one has never done.

I have used both and never had an issue with either - could I notice any power difference - no of course not. If there was jack all price diff between then two - Gizzmo would be the obvious choice.
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Old 6th August 2007, 01:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLTEK
Unless you were doing it yourself - paying to have a gasket put in is not worth it at all.

Taking an intake manifold off when motor still in car is a mission - by the time you do that, clean up the old gasket and put it all back together you will have spent at least $200 or so in labour, plus the gasket.

If you are pulling a motor out of a car, or having to take the manifold off for another reason then a heat shield manifold of some description should be installed.

I suggest anyone after proof should contact gizzmo directly.

I think it is generally accepted that the Hondata ones are supseptable to burning/melting which a Gizzmo one has never done.

I have used both and never had an issue with either - could I notice any power difference - no of course not. If there was jack all price diff between then two - Gizzmo would be the obvious choice.
You mean you couldn't feel the extra 2hp!!!?? Thanks for that, I won't be bothering.
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Old 6th August 2007, 01:52 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I just brought a brand new one for $50 8) . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
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Old 6th August 2007, 02:36 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Just buy some phenolic resin board and cut it out yourself using the original one as a template.
If your fussy or a pie-fingers with a dremel take a 1:1 scan of your original gasket and create a vector file from it and get the board laser cut. While you're at it get some washers cut out too for under the OEM washers to stop heat transfer throuh the bolt heads as Tysonzane has said.
If you've gone to the trouble of getting one cut you might as well cut a whole lot and flog them off on tard-me to cover your costs and even make some pocket money.

True Phenolic resin board wont melt, it's a fibre re-inforced thermoset so it'll burn before it melts.
If you wanted to ensure a good seal and further heat transfer reduction, spray the board with two-pot platinum silicone on both sides and cure it on before you laser cut it.
Silicone is an amazing heat insulator and will provide a rubber gasket layer at the same time.
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Old 6th August 2007, 04:45 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tysonzane
I just brought a brand new one for $50 8) . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
when you find some washers, let me know. my ones didnt last
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Old 6th August 2007, 04:57 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYRYD
Quote:
Originally Posted by tysonzane
I just brought a brand new one for $50 8) . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
when you find some washers, let me know. my ones didnt last
Sweet will do. I'm not sure how much of a difference they will make but its worth a go while i've got those fiddly bolts undone . I think a nut/bolt/tool shop across the road from papakura engineering will do them, but yeah i'll let you know.

PS saw a dead dc2 in your driveway a week ago when driving past 8O
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Old 6th August 2007, 05:17 PM   #32 (permalink)
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you can get some red colourd fibre washers, in some of those nut and bolt kits. we use them at work on bolts to stop 2 metal parts rusting together.

not sure how they would work on the intake manifold but they seem pretty deciant
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Old 6th August 2007, 05:18 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tysonzane
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYRYD
Quote:
Originally Posted by tysonzane
I just brought a brand new one for $50 8) . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
when you find some washers, let me know. my ones didnt last
Sweet will do. I'm not sure how much of a difference they will make but its worth a go while i've got those fiddly bolts undone . I think a nut/bolt/tool shop across the road from papakura engineering will do them, but yeah i'll let you know.

PS saw a dead dc2 in your driveway a week ago when driving past 8O
hehehe thats been there for.... almost a year now? ops:
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Old 6th August 2007, 05:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
I just brought a brand new one for $50 . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
They are the stupidest idea ever I think. Not to mention they will reduce the thread of the bolt.

Contemplate this, The intake manifold studs touch the intake so what difference will washers do? Furthermore water still goes through your intake (unless you re-routed it completely)
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Old 6th August 2007, 06:12 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe-R
Quote:
I just brought a brand new one for $50 . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
They are the stupidest idea ever I think. Not to mention they will reduce the thread of the bolt.

Contemplate this, The intake manifold studs touch the intake so what difference will washers do? Furthermore water still goes through your intake (unless you re-routed it completely)
I do plan on re routing the water because as i see it, its pointless installing the gasket if there is still hot water running through it. The washer idea was just an experiment, i understand that the thread will still touch the manifold but the idea is that the overall surface area of metal to metal contact is reduced. Ofcourse i'm not stupid in the fact that the thread to nut length will be reduced and if it is too much i'll just flag running the washers all together.

You dont know till you try i guess...
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Old 6th August 2007, 07:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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be anal and run both hondata and gizzmo gaskets. bound to stop more heat than just one gasket
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Old 6th August 2007, 07:51 PM   #37 (permalink)
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the gizzmo gasket i got came with plastic washers, but they crapped out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe-R
Quote:
I just brought a brand new one for $50 . I'm going to try get some plastic washer spacers to put between the nuts and the manifold in an attempt to reduce temperatures even further. Weather or not this will work is unknowen.
They are the stupidest idea ever I think. Not to mention they will reduce the thread of the bolt.

Contemplate this, The intake manifold studs touch the intake so what difference will washers do? Furthermore water still goes through your intake (unless you re-routed it completely)
i guess you can just use longer bolts. (i didnt )
the gaskets do really make a big difference in temperature,
with the stock gasket i wasnt able to touch the intake manifold after a hard drive.
but with the gasket, i am able to touch and hold my hand on the intake manifold after a hard drive.
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Old 6th August 2007, 09:28 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckles2
gizzmo have proved theres holds back more heat then hondata and also can withstand more heat so wont melt like ronnie lims hondata 1 did.

My Hondata melted and warped down aswell i have pics but there on the other computer
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Old 6th August 2007, 09:30 PM   #39 (permalink)
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seems to me the melting problem is resonably common.
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Old 7th August 2007, 04:35 PM   #40 (permalink)
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im a fence sitter. ive had a hondata for almost 5 years now and its still in good condition, a bit black around the intake runners but that is from oil. it is not melted at all.

on the other side of the fence i use phenolic gaskets at work on million dollar jet engines that go to very high temperatures.

phenolic has a higher temperature rating but is a bastard to work with and is VERY VERY bad for your lungs if sanded. VERY!. you could quite happily port a hondata one without a lung replacement.
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Old 7th August 2007, 04:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
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question for the melted guys:

are you NA or turbo and did you ever overheat your engine?
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