Components/Amp/Installers

[WingIt]

Yea back speakers of headunit.

Dont get components for the back, will sounds arse
Just get co-aixels

DVC= dual voice coil, each voice coil is 2ohm so when wired in *series* it is a 4ohm load
(i put parallel before for some reason, i meant series)

[fr3ek]

Your "bitches" will be able to hear the ones in the front just fine... sometimes it sounds better in the back!

It's $350 for not much benefit. If you spent the $700 on fronts... hot damn that would sound mint. They'll be streets ahead in overall output and smack harder than the $359 set also.

DVC is dual voice coil. The voice coil is the part of the speaker which induces the movement... thats beside the point, just think of a DVC sub as one with two sets of terminals... and WingIt means connect them in series not parallel. Don't worry about this too much, if you're dealing with Pauls they'll sort it for you.

As far as the install, talk to some installers. Most likely speakers in the stock locations. I think Caldinas have space under the boot floor for an amp. A decent grill on the sub will keep it safe.

Yes, Hammer's hit nicely (excuse the pun). Was just a suggestion. To my ears and experience, the Rainbows are a quick and snappy speaker, where something like DLS and Atomic are still very realistic, but also have a more solid hit.

[mithere]

Originally Posted by fr3ek

Your "bitches" will be able to hear the ones in the front just fine... sometimes it sounds better in the back!

It's $350 for not much benefit. If you spent the $700 on fronts... hot damn that would sound mint. They'll be streets ahead in overall output and smack harder than the $359 set also.

DVC is dual voice coil. The voice coil is the part of the speaker which induces the movement... thats beside the point, just think of a DVC sub as one with two sets of terminals... and WingIt means connect them in series not parallel. Don't worry about this too much, if you're dealing with Pauls they'll sort it for you.

As far as the install, talk to some installers. Most likely speakers in the stock locations. I think Caldinas have space under the boot floor for an amp. A decent grill on the sub will keep it safe.

Yes, Hammer's hit nicely (excuse the pun). Was just a suggestion. To my ears and experience, the Rainbows are a quick and snappy speaker, where something like DLS and Atomic are still very realistic, but also have a more solid hit.

I was kidding about the bitches. Haha, I like quick and snappy... I don't want something that's always vibrating! What happens if I run a 400wRMS sub off a 1000wRMS amp? Okay so basically I could just spend more on the front speakers and get a better overall sound?

[fr3ek]

Your front speakers play 90% of what you hear, so definately spend as much there as your budget allows.

To give you an idea, the human hearing is in the range of 20-20,000Hz. Your sub usually plays 20-80Hz. This means the speakers are left to play 80-20,000Hz, quite a lot!

A 400wrms sub off a 1000wrms amp is fine as long as it is not distorting, it is a bit of a waste of power though.

[mithere]

I see.
So what Rainbows could I get for around $700?
I don't mind spending a little more than that..
So a 400wRMS sub could be run off 2 x 130 or 1 x 400 watts RMS (Is that the series thing you were talking about before? Is that crossover?)
And then get the same 2 x 130 or 1 x 400 watts RMS to really power the front components?

Chanks, chanks berry much

[fr3ek]

The Soundline SLC set is next up from the SLX. I think these are around the $500+ mark, been a while since I've seen the price.

Rainbow Germaniums are like $950 last I saw. This is true audiophile gear by this point. Sexy looking kit also.

... um, not sure if there are any models in between. The Rainbow line tops out at $22,000

Is there a certain amp you have in mind? You could run it like that with the fronts on two channels at the 130, and a sub at 400 with the Hammer.

[mithere]

$22,000?
Fark How much for two of Rainbow Audio - iPaul 2.400s?
Depending on how much those are, might hit the Germaniums.

[fr3ek]

Best to send Pauls Audio a PM or email for the iPaul amp prices. I'm not sure on the price of them

[mithere]

Originally Posted by fr3ek

Best to send Pauls Audio a PM or email for the iPaul amp prices. I'm not sure on the price of them

Sikness, chanks. Fuck I'm excited. What is the Alpine - IDA-X001 head deck like?

[fr3ek]

Never used one myself as I do not have an iPoo. But yeah, supposed to be one of the quickest and best for direct high speed iPod access. Something about video in there too... I don't follow the iPod stuff personally. Pauls were doing sharp prices on them at one stage too.

[mithere]

Will I still get epic quality from just playing normal 128kbps CDs and/or normal iPod tunes with the above speakers etc?

[fr3ek]

If anything, the better the speakers you have, the more the imperfections in the recording show up. That's what happens when you get accurate speakers.

They'll sound great, but yeah, all the shit recordings will stand out.

I can tell the difference between 320kbps and under versus an original CD. That said, ignorance is bliss... if you don't know what you're listening for, you'll never know

[grandell]

with the right install its possible you will hear a difference between CD quality and 128kbps MP3s, and those speakers will make it even more noticable


:edit: can you really tell the difference between 320 and CD? cos i'm about to copy all my CDs on my new laptop, and was going to do do that, rather than lossless...

[Moclov]

Originally Posted by grandell

:edit: can you really tell the difference between 320 and CD? cos i'm about to copy all my CDs on my new laptop, and was going to do do that, rather than lossless...

If he can the difference must be bordering on imperceivable! Maybe if you had those $22,000 speakers

[fr3ek]

Maybe I should have said 320 and under *exclusive* just for grandell

The only difference I can hear between 320 and CDA is that CDA is louder. This could be because it is not being processed like the MP3.

320 and 256 is difficult, but sometimes you can hear the difference... 256 and 192 definately. Rip at 320. Use a good algorithm, and make sure it is pure stereo, and not joint-stereo like most of *that* media out there.

I original CD.

[mithere]

Rank
I just sold every single one of my original CDs to Real Groovy thinking I could get away with what's on my iPod
So maybe I should not get the Germaniums, eh fr3ek?

[fr3ek]

Still go for it!

I only notice it because I'm picky and my ears have been ruined by big dollar systems. Most of the time it is ok and it doesn't bother you... you just get the odd shit rip where you say "damn that sounds too much like arse to listen to, next track please".

When you're driving, with all the road noise, you won't hear it anyway. Just ignore me

... or, you could get the SLC or SLX set, and get some Dynamat to quieten down the inside as it is going to be a travelling car

[grandell]

Originally Posted by fr3ek

When you're driving, with all the road noise, you won't hear it anyway

exactly right there

we go on about sound quality quite a bit, but to be honest, unless you've spent a lot of time listening to really high end setups, when you're on the road you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between 192 and CD unless you're sitting there actually swapping between the two

that said, there is still a huge difference between 'average' speakers, good speakers (mid range DLS/Rainbow) and top end stuff (Germ's, DLS UP/UR/Iridiums etc), so its still worth getting the best you can afford, as long as you're gonna get enough use out of it

[mithere]

Okay sikness
Cheers fellas

[grandell]

no worries

plus, if you buy DLS you can join our circle jerk http://nzhondas.com/forum/group.php?groupid=19

[igor]

I quite like my DLS speakers and sub. UR5 front components and an Ultimate Iridium 12". Nice sounding speakers.

[grandell]

UR's and an Iridium sub? Nice!!! should sound bloody good with gear like that