Camber Arms: Skunk2 pro vs. Blox

Kelsonmassif · 1st May 2008, 02:00 PM

What are the differences between the two other then the price?

ive read that the skunk2 pro had good clearance on lowered cars, do the blox have the same amount of clearance?

lets hear your thoughts

BTLF3D · 1st May 2008, 02:06 PM

no the blox dont, get the skunk2 pro for a low car... my blox ones hit the strut tower, i will upgrade to skunk2 pro one day.

Horny_Devil · 1st May 2008, 04:46 PM

im going for skunk2 pro next time as they bolts are on the bottom not the top which makes it so much easier when u go to adjust them

also im sure the skunk 2 one will still hit as they are still longer than factory ones

Gudgen · 1st May 2008, 04:52 PM

whats the theory behind the extended arm?

Horny_Devil · 1st May 2008, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gudgen

whats the theory behind the extended arm?

gives u the ablity to move the ball joint out firther, ie adjust camber

Hayce · 1st May 2008, 05:14 PM

If the stock arms hit, adjustable ones are always going to...

Horny_Devil · 1st May 2008, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hayce

If the stock arms hit, adjustable ones are always going to...

stock ones didnt but adjustable ones did

Gudgen · 1st May 2008, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Horny_Devil

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gudgen

whats the theory behind the extended arm?

gives u the ablity to move the ball joint out firther, ie adjust camber

if u try and get zero camber on a low low car then its always gonna hit. the inside of the guard is designed to aloow the stock arm to fold into the cavity of the arch.

i guess theres always a limit for adj. on low low cars.

Horny_Devil · 1st May 2008, 05:45 PM

if the car is low its always going to hit anyways no matter where the camber is set at due to the legnth of the arm, as it needs to be longer to allow for the ball joint to be moved

Ped Rac3r · 2nd May 2008, 04:28 PM

Has anyone attempted to shorten the arm from the hub to UCA? That would solve the tight clearance problems and have the UCA sitting at a better angle when lowered.

Horny_Devil · 2nd May 2008, 09:54 PM

problem would be getting it certed

b16a2 · 2nd May 2008, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ped Rac3r

Has anyone attempted to shorten the arm from the hub to UCA? That would solve the tight clearance problems and have the UCA sitting at a better angle when lowered.

i dont know anyone who will cut and weld a cast suspension arm... thats just dodgy

you would have to machine a new carrier and make a billet upright or something, or just buy a billet hub and bolt on alloy uprights stc stc

dazznz · 3rd May 2008, 07:27 AM

If you go to the right people they will shorten any of the arms for you. This is what they used to do to race cars before the camber kits etc came out.

Colza · 3rd May 2008, 09:40 AM

Do you know what method they use for shortening?

nocert · 3rd May 2008, 11:21 AM

im sure you can get special rods for welding cast, they just have to diagnose the contents of the cast, and then they pick a rod to suit.

I would say they will also pre-heart the parent metal aswell.

i could be wrong tho we didnt study cast metals much for my apprenticeship.

edit: they would probly cut and weld.

sugarfree · 11th July 2008, 10:59 PM

what about aftermarket front lower arm kit? is there such things?

Horny_Devil · 12th July 2008, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarfree

what about aftermarket front lower arm kit? is there such things?

yes there is such a thing
Omni Power USA, Inc - Still Going
but its only 1/2 of the front lower arm and its pretty expensive

1st May 2008, 02:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
Kelsonmassif Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 3,403 Location: Wellington	Camber Arms: Skunk2 pro vs. Blox What are the differences between the two other then the price? ive read that the skunk2 pro had good clearance on lowered cars, do the blox have the same amount of clearance? lets hear your thoughts __________________ 60% of the time, works every time

1st May 2008, 02:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
BTLF3D Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,962 Location: Levin	no the blox dont, get the skunk2 pro for a low car... my blox ones hit the strut tower, i will upgrade to skunk2 pro one day. __________________ Civic Turbo \| 11.8 @ 123mph \| Built B18C \| GT35R \| 319wkw \| 19psi Profile Supreme Antennas Skunk2 M&H Slicks F B I Performance Beyond 2 NZ Performance Speedfactor WorkshopX Speedtech NZ 41.co.nz Collier Motor Engineers Morrel Motors

1st May 2008, 04:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
Horny_Devil Senior Member 18,000rpm+ Honda F1! Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 12,498 Location: Auckland	im going for skunk2 pro next time as they bolts are on the bottom not the top which makes it so much easier when u go to adjust them also im sure the skunk 2 one will still hit as they are still longer than factory ones __________________ D Series Guru My Profile - My Website - My Build Thread V2.0

1st May 2008, 04:52 PM	#4 (permalink)
Gudgen Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,465 Location: Dunedin	whats the theory behind the extended arm? __________________ B16A EF9 250BHP *\| "Owning an EF9 since ages ago!"*

1st May 2008, 05:14 PM	#6 (permalink)
Hayce Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 7,035 Location: Hamilton	If the stock arms hit, adjustable ones are always going to... __________________ ....................................EK molester!..................gtrefinishers

1st May 2008, 05:45 PM	#9 (permalink)
Horny_Devil Senior Member 18,000rpm+ Honda F1! Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 12,498 Location: Auckland	if the car is low its always going to hit anyways no matter where the camber is set at due to the legnth of the arm, as it needs to be longer to allow for the ball joint to be moved __________________ D Series Guru My Profile - My Website - My Build Thread V2.0

2nd May 2008, 04:28 PM	#10 (permalink)
Ped Rac3r Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 453 Location: Auckland	Has anyone attempted to shorten the arm from the hub to UCA? That would solve the tight clearance problems and have the UCA sitting at a better angle when lowered.

2nd May 2008, 09:54 PM	#11 (permalink)
Horny_Devil Senior Member 18,000rpm+ Honda F1! Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 12,498 Location: Auckland	problem would be getting it certed __________________ D Series Guru My Profile - My Website - My Build Thread V2.0

3rd May 2008, 07:27 AM	#13 (permalink)
dazznz Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,533 Location: Auckland	If you go to the right people they will shorten any of the arms for you. This is what they used to do to race cars before the camber kits etc came out. __________________ www.yorkmotorsport.co.nz - www.badboy.co.nz www.theblackhawk.co.nz www.queenb.co.nz (Online home shoping)

3rd May 2008, 09:40 AM	#14 (permalink)
Colza Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,694 Location: Palmerston North	Do you know what method they use for shortening? __________________ I'm in ur loop, iterating ur variable!

3rd May 2008, 11:21 AM	#15 (permalink)
nocert Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 973 Location: Papakura	im sure you can get special rods for welding cast, they just have to diagnose the contents of the cast, and then they pick a rod to suit. I would say they will also pre-heart the parent metal aswell. i could be wrong tho we didnt study cast metals much for my apprenticeship. edit: they would probly cut and weld. __________________ For all of your CAD , .DXF cnc program and any custom fabrication needs pm me PROJECT STREET RACER-EF2 BUILD THREAD

11th July 2008, 10:59 PM	#16 (permalink)
sugarfree Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,702 Location: Auckland	Re: Camber Arms: Skunk2 pro vs. Blox what about aftermarket front lower arm kit? is there such things? __________________ Red EG6

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