IS IT worth it? Chasing power? made up my mind... BOOST FTW!

[Codeman]

Im stuck with a problem... LINK g3 OR chiped pr3 with vafc2??
Want all your opinions n pitfalls n pros n cons please
And what power do you think i could expect??

For starters- im running a...
Stock block 97 b18c
Full 99 CTR head
2.5" exuast
TRR or 98spec headers
AND some cam gears. -- pretty basic, hoping for around 120fwkw

All in a little crx :evil: (EF7 btw)

Option 1.
It gets freighted to christchurch to get the g3 wired in, and tuned with the cam gears, then i fly up n get it when finished, So il be looking at around $2600 and hopfully a realiable 120fwkw. also need some injectors, vr4? gsr?

Option 2.
It gets freighted to christchurch and i get them to wire in the pr3 (have to get it chiped 1st) to the 0bd0 ZC loom, So i would have to find some 0bd0 injectors and dizzy, and get it tuned this way with the cam gears and a vafc2 n then fly up and get it. This way is a pain in the ass but maybe around 1g less, maybe, not sure??

The differance is the labour for wiring the pr3 up rather than the link, plus i gota muck around finding the 0bd0 stuff, and also the power figure, i dont know if there would be much differance between the 2??
I want it reliable so i wont be telling them to squeeze everything the can out of it, but i want it quik, and id say it will be in something that weighs less than 900kg :evil:

What about hondata? are they able to wire one up from scratch or do the have them for this setup?

Please let me know your opinions and pros n cons!
Cheers

[Gudgen]

EF8???

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Gudgen

EF8???

EF7 lol with SIR front n buddyclub rear, shaven sides ect ect.

[Gudgen]

currently your car runs a pre-OBD electronics system. hondata is good. your able to use the factory ecu case. but for your car your first have to convert it to OBD1 which run in EG cars. its real straight forward change dizzy/plugs and convert the 2 single wire oxy sensors to one 4-wire and a conversion harness from the ecu end.

but then.

your motor is quite stock so i dont know. what thoughts do you have now..

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Gudgen

currently your car runs a pre-OBD electronics system. hondata is good. your able to use the factory ecu case. but for your car your first have to convert it to OBD1 which run in EG cars. its real straight forward change dizzy/plugs and convert the 2 single wire oxy sensors to one 4-wire and a conversion harness from the ecu end.

but then.

your motor is quite stock so i dont know. what thoughts do you have now..

Right now its 0bd0, thats what zc is lol and i dont really want to do that, i was more thinking the link and just getting somewhere else to do it all, So i guess they could convert it and chuck a hondata in there n send me the bill, but i havnt worked out the pricing on them babies yet.

[Coupe-R]

Right now its 0bd0, thats what zc is

correct, to wire a ZC to vtec conversion isn't that hard, i suggest you google it and read up about it or ask people on here how to do it.

THat covers the wiring side of things (adding vtec, knock sensor, vtec pressure switch and vtec soleniod)

Then get a PR3 chipped and tuned using the program BRE

you don't need to buy a VAFC thats what the chipping is for.

If you wire it yourself its free

then chip the PR3 (I can add a socket to the ECU for you if you want)
then get someone who can tune the PR3 ecu using a chip emaulator and the prgram called BRE on the dyno, or even road tune if you want.

This would be under $1000 easy for the option I recommended above, and maybe run better than the link for 1/4 of the tuning time needed on the dyno.

P.S leave the stock 240cc injectors in there (run B16A injectors if ZC ones are different?) and run 50psi rail pressure with the vacume hose disconnected (Factory B18C fuel pressure)

you won'r lean out with 50psi rail pressure and 240cc injectors. Thats the setup Type R motors use. 240cc 50psi

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Coupe-R

Then get a PR3 chipped and tuned using the program BRE

you don't need to buy a VAFC thats what the chipping is for.

If you wire it yourself its free

then chip the PR3 (I can add a socket to the ECU for you if you want)
then get someone who can tune the PR3 ecu using a chip emaulator and the prgram called BRE on the dyno, or even road tune if you want.

This would be under $1000 easy for the option I recommended above, and maybe run better than the link for 1/4 of the tuning time needed on the dyno.

I wouldnt know where to start, i dont know how to do that side of things, at all, period lol Plus im ages away from all the guys on here so its hard to get mates help

So il just get nzefi or spec performance to do it, then i dont have to worry about it.

But as far as the pr3 option goes, i thought id need a vafc to change a/f ect? because the guy on here is from up north that does the chip and is only guessing n doing what i tell him to do, Not specific for my exact moter if you get me?

So would nzefi or the likes have the software to dyno the chiped pr3 n do the a/f ratio ect ect? and yeah im pretty sure the injectors are differant, not by much tho, zc's might be 210cc from memory.

But i still have to buy a 0bd0 dizzy and the b16a injectors so thats another $200 ish.

And would the link not get alot more out of it?

Also, what on the zc loom plugs straight in? does it connect to the dizzy without any problems? and the pr3 ecu? So most things connect like stock? except for needing to wire in a few extras?

[Codeman]

Made up my mind now, just going to go the link way, and since its allready going to be on the dyno im going to turbo it only low boost tho.
Will cost around 6-7k with decent parts.

Will post a new thread once i start it, with pics, specs, figures ect.

This crx has been in the making for nearly a year now, So didnt want to start a build thread with the slow progress i have been making, so sorry but will probly only have the end result pics n specs.

Hopefully youl see me crack 11s by the middle of the year.
Cheers.

[Gudgen]

congrats on your decision and good luck.

[Lith]

Originally Posted by Codeman

This crx has been in the making for nearly a year now, So didnt want to start a build thread with the slow progress i have been making, so sorry but will probly only have the end result pics n specs.

Hopefully youl see me crack 11s by the middle of the year

Build threads don't have to go fast, just post as you make noteable progress if there is any!

Sounds like you haven't done much or any drag racing, but I wouldn't be holding my breath or telling too many people it will be doing 11s if you look at the calibre of the builds of the few 11s FWDs in NZ - but sounds like a fun beast nonethless... good luck

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Lith

Build threads don't have to go fast, just post as you make noteable progress if there is any!

Sounds like you haven't done much or any drag racing, but I wouldn't be holding my breath or telling too many people it will be doing 11s if you look at the calibre of the builds of the few 11s FWDs in NZ - but sounds like a fun beast nonethless... good luck

Im talking about 11.9 with slicks, stripped, and nearly 400whp in 800kg, i think thats an 11 as long as it sticks to the ground.
Cheers

[Horny_Devil]

not ur not allowed to run slicks :wink: only semis

and u said u only wanted to run low boost 8psi, u aint gonna see 300wkw with that.

11's are harder than u think, look at hayden in BTLFED, he's got 300wkw and hes done a lot of devolpment and hes only just got into the 11's all be it with a heavier car

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Horny_Devil

not ur not allowed to run slicks :wink: only semis

and u said u only wanted to run low boost 8psi, u aint gonna see 300wkw with that.

11's are harder than u think, look at hayden in BTLFED, he's got 300wkw and hes done a lot of devolpment and hes only just got into the 11's all be it with a heavier car

Yeah im not planning on that without opeining the block, thats in future. I want around 190wkw. and yes, weight makes a huge differance
I seen his video of 12sec pass, it has alot of potential, if he drove it better! lol

[Matty]

Moved to FI section since build has changed.

Although it's veering rapidly towards OT...

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Matty

Moved to FI section since build has changed.

Although it's veering rapidly towards OT...

Cheers, n yes, i guess i said something very optimistic, my bad!
Il shoot for 12s. happy people?

[BTLF3D]

Originally Posted by Codeman

Yeah im not planning on that without opeining the block, thats in future. I want around 190wkw. and yes, weight makes a huge differance
I seen his video of 12sec pass, it has alot of potential, if he drove it better! lol

yea, i bet if you got in you would bust out a 10 straight away! :wink:

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by BTLF3D

yea, i bet if you got in you would bust out a 10 straight away! :wink:

Wasn't being stink bro, it looked hard as to drive. it looks like it has the power to do better is what im saying :wink:

[Codeman]

What does everyone think of road tuning? and how trusty is it? i like the sound of the dyno and having that piece of mind

[Bananaman]

Originally Posted by Codeman

What does everyone think of road tuning? and how trusty is it? i like the sound of the dyno and having that piece of mind

Possum borne motorsport tune there cars on Pukekohe race way. Nothing like the actual condition your car is going to run in for tuning.

Like HD^ said. If the person knows what they are doing and has a decent point to start with it's all good.

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by Bananaman

Possum borne motorsport tune there cars on Pukekohe race way. Nothing like the actual condition your car is going to run in for tuning.

Like HD^ said. If the person knows what they are doing and has a decent point to start with it's all good.

Yeah makes sense aye.

Hybrid Garage-- How many cars/hondas have you done this for? and many turbos? Id really apreciate a price quote on a few things, so if you can give me a number that would be sweet!!

[turboteg]

road tuning is fine for low boost and cruising zones, but you're crazy if you're tuning a 400hp fwd on the road, people that claim that road tuning is the way to go are usually people that don't have access to a dyno!

[nemesisteg]

i fully agree with bruce on that one, just trying to picture a couple of guys in a car trying to do it, cruising and mid range etc easy enough sure but what about right up top? its not like your gunna keep fangin it down the road at 8000rpm in third trying to hold it there for a while while the other guy tweaks it?? maybe im a tuning n00b but i can imagine the up top stuff to be hard to get spot on, i mean you have the probe in the exhaust while your cruising or wha?

[turbozxi]

You can run dot rated slicks and it is quite conceivable that you could hit an 11sec pass on a stock b18c. You would have to be smart about it but its been done many mnay times before.

[turbozxi]

Originally Posted by turboteg

road tuning is fine for low boost and cruising zones, but you're crazy if you're tuning a 400hp fwd on the road, people that claim that road tuning is the way to go are usually people that don't have access to a dyno!

oh and *2.

[Codeman]

Originally Posted by nemesisteg

i fully agree with bruce on that one, just trying to picture a couple of guys in a car trying to do it, cruising and mid range etc easy enough sure but what about right up top? its not like your gunna keep fangin it down the road at 8000rpm in third trying to hold it there for a while while the other guy tweaks it?? maybe im a tuning n00b but i can imagine the up top stuff to be hard to get spot on, i mean you have the probe in the exhaust while your cruising or wha?

WELL said, thats exactly the mental picture i had haha

It would be around 300whp, but thats still enough to light up the fronts with ya foot right up it, how the hell could you tune that? lol

I dont know many guys that spend heaps on there build then go and road tune it? Why do it when you can spend abit more for piece of mind?

Maybe i just dont know much, but the dyno seems more accuret n smooth?

TURBOZXI- Thats what i think, its up to the driver and how light ya car is in my opinion, as well as traction n power of corse.