my manifold cracked twice already?? - Page 2

turbozxi · 17th September 2007, 05:36 PM

If ronnie did make it then go back to him he should remedy the problem, that car hasn't been boosted for very long at all has it? Do you have a flex pipe after your down pipe? if not is a good idea to get one. Worse comes to worse go steampipe..

b16a2 · 17th September 2007, 05:56 PM

just spend all you money and get another stainless one, but make sure its sch40... aka stainless steam pipe.. that will not crack unless the welders a vegie and ronnie isnt so you should be fine

turbozxi · 17th September 2007, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b16a2

just spend all you money and get another stainless one, but make sure its sch40... aka stainless steam pipe.. that will not crack unless the welders a vegie and ronnie isnt so you should be fine

Why?

b16a2 · 17th September 2007, 06:31 PM

^^ looks way better, and you dont have to worry about the stupid thing rusting and wasting money on getting it coated, ms manifolds arnt that much cheaper than stainless if you consider the cost of coating etc

BTLF3D · 17th September 2007, 06:40 PM

if you want a manifold that wont rust you will have to get s/s flanges too :wink:

Tompen · 17th September 2007, 07:15 PM

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

Bigelboe · 17th September 2007, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

You serisouly recon SCH10 will to the job? I briefly considered SCH80 for a steam pipe mani Im planning.

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Colza · 17th September 2007, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Seconded.

Not sure about the foofoo tho, i hear thats not legal in some contries 8O

b16a2 · 18th September 2007, 07:39 AM

if stainles use sch40, if mild steel use sch10, no need to use thicker, and theres not really much point in back purging mild, just adding extra cost

b16a2 · 18th September 2007, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

high temp foofoo can .

ayyyyy? whats that :?:

Bigelboe · 18th September 2007, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b16a2

if stainles use sch40, if mild steel use sch10, no need to use thicker, and theres not really much point in back purging mild, just adding extra cost

Wouldn't backpurging make a stronger weld and leave a smoother finish on the inside? I havn't done F/A m/s TIG work, I just assumed it was fairly similar to stainless and alu, both which you backpurge if you want nice welds (as I sure you know).

Quote:

Originally Posted by b16a2

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

high temp foofoo can .

ayyyyy? whats that :?:

High temp spray can paint. There is a fairly decent ceramic one I was looking at the other day. You spray it on, then bake it for 30 mins, then do another caot, bake it etc. Its ment to last pretty well.

Tompen · 18th September 2007, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

You serisouly recon SCH10 will to the job? I briefly considered SCH80 for a steam pipe mani Im planning.

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Yep, full pen and backpurged should be sweet. Ive welded up sch10 stuff at work that gets pretty dam close to exhaust mani temps and its all good. Lots of guys in the states run sch10 as well and they seem to be holding up well

Slammmed · 18th September 2007, 05:12 PM

that looks like a ramhorn manifold? not a custom made one?

IMAQL8 · 18th September 2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slammmed

that looks like a ramhorn manifold? not a custom made one?

i can ask old owner watugt... and see what he says..

Bigelboe · 18th September 2007, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

You serisouly recon SCH10 will to the job? I briefly considered SCH80 for a steam pipe mani Im planning.

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Yep, full pen and backpurged should be sweet. Ive welded up sch10 stuff at work that gets pretty dam close to exhaust mani temps and its all good. Lots of guys in the states run sch10 as well and they seem to be holding up well

Mnn might give it a go then, would save a fair bit of weight.

Tompen · 18th September 2007, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

You serisouly recon SCH10 will to the job? I briefly considered SCH80 for a steam pipe mani Im planning.

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Yep, full pen and backpurged should be sweet. Ive welded up sch10 stuff at work that gets pretty dam close to exhaust mani temps and its all good. Lots of guys in the states run sch10 as well and they seem to be holding up well

Mnn might give it a go then, would save a fair bit of weight.

Its what im going to be using if i ever turbo the CRX or the EB

urban_styles · 18th September 2007, 06:59 PM

dont even start me on cracking manifolds.......................

Bigelboe · 18th September 2007, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigelboe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far...
If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one...

You serisouly recon SCH10 will to the job? I briefly considered SCH80 for a steam pipe mani Im planning.

SCH40 mild steel, full pen, TIGged, back purged and painted in high temp foofoo can black would be my choice for a daily. If you heat wrap it who cares what it looks like anyhoo.

Yep, full pen and backpurged should be sweet. Ive welded up sch10 stuff at work that gets pretty dam close to exhaust mani temps and its all good. Lots of guys in the states run sch10 as well and they seem to be holding up well

Mnn might give it a go then, would save a fair bit of weight.

Its what im going to be using if i ever turbo the CRX or the EB

Fair enough, I just need to scab another flow meter from somewhere so I can run backpurge. Hopefully making a mani in Nov when uni finishes. nice high mount.

Tompen · 19th September 2007, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by urban_styles

dont even start me on cracking manifolds.......................

RMF?

IMAQL8 · 19th September 2007, 02:30 PM

okay old owner said mani is from the states..
so not from ronnie...
i'll just get ronnies input on what he thinks aswell in regards to this.. this weekend..

b16a2 · 19th September 2007, 02:41 PM

well its probly a xs power one, and if it is throw it away :wink:

Hayce · 19th September 2007, 02:54 PM

http://nzhondas.com/phpBB2/fs-b16-b1...ighlight=turbo

Was one he had but apparently Phoniex bought it? Maybe he knows what it was replaced with...

IMAQL8 · 19th September 2007, 04:09 PM

looks similar to that one but i dont know if he actually used that one as the wastegate part looks like its in a dif place on my one...

so maybe same people.. either way im just going to get the crack welded then go to ronnie to see what he says to do.. and put forward to him your guys ideas of bracing and son..

thanks for the help guys..

urban_styles · 19th September 2007, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tompen

Quote:

Originally Posted by urban_styles

dont even start me on cracking manifolds.......................

RMF?

yeah man!!!

phonix · 19th September 2007, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hayce

http://nzhondas.com/phpBB2/fs-b16-b18-turbo-manifold-vtu57346.html?highlight=turbo

Was one he had but apparently Phoniex bought it? Maybe he knows what it was replaced with...

Phonix did indeed buy that one. Is definitely not XSPower, not machine welded in any places nor the shitty thin SCH?? they use. Looks to be of fairly solid construction, guess we'll see how it goes.

17th September 2007, 05:56 PM	#27 (permalink)
b16a2 Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 2,284 Location: Howick	just spend all you money and get another stainless one, but make sure its sch40... aka stainless steam pipe.. that will not crack unless the welders a vegie and ronnie isnt so you should be fine __________________ www.ISLMotorsport.co.nz --- Pm me for CUSTOM FABRICATION; headers, manifolds, exhausts, turbo setups, Chasis Prep etc. MyWork ___________________JESUS Loves U___

17th September 2007, 06:31 PM	#29 (permalink)
b16a2 Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 2,284 Location: Howick	^^ looks way better, and you dont have to worry about the stupid thing rusting and wasting money on getting it coated, ms manifolds arnt that much cheaper than stainless if you consider the cost of coating etc __________________ www.ISLMotorsport.co.nz --- Pm me for CUSTOM FABRICATION; headers, manifolds, exhausts, turbo setups, Chasis Prep etc. MyWork ___________________JESUS Loves U___

17th September 2007, 06:40 PM	#30 (permalink)
BTLF3D Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,955 Location: Levin	if you want a manifold that wont rust you will have to get s/s flanges too :wink: __________________ Civic Turbo \| 11.8 @ 123mph \| Built B18C \| GT35R \| 319wkw \| 19psi Profile Supreme Antennas Skunk2 M&H Slicks F B I Performance Beyond 2 NZ Performance Speedfactor WorkshopX Speedtech NZ 41.co.nz Collier Motor Engineers Morrel Motors

17th September 2007, 07:15 PM	#31 (permalink)
Tompen Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 1,411 Location: Wellington	Full pen welds on a SCH10 SS mani should be fine, as long as the design doesnt hang the turbo out too far... If you can afford it, brace the manifold with Heim joints to allow it to expand and flex, bracing the manifold and NOT allowing it to flex and expand can cause a manifold to crack just as fast as an unbraced one... __________________ 1989 EF8 CRX SiR

18th September 2007, 07:39 AM	#34 (permalink)
b16a2 Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 2,284 Location: Howick	if stainles use sch40, if mild steel use sch10, no need to use thicker, and theres not really much point in back purging mild, just adding extra cost __________________ www.ISLMotorsport.co.nz --- Pm me for CUSTOM FABRICATION; headers, manifolds, exhausts, turbo setups, Chasis Prep etc. MyWork ___________________JESUS Loves U___

17th September 2007, 05:36 PM	#26 (permalink)
turbozxi Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 4,248 Location: Auckland	If ronnie did make it then go back to him he should remedy the problem, that car hasn't been boosted for very long at all has it? Do you have a flex pipe after your down pipe? if not is a good idea to get one. Worse comes to worse go steampipe..

18th September 2007, 05:12 PM	#38 (permalink)
Slammmed Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,383 Location: Auckland	that looks like a ramhorn manifold? not a custom made one? __________________ Poor uni student trying to build a weapon! Watch this space /forum/members/slammmed.html

18th September 2007, 06:59 PM	#42 (permalink)
urban_styles Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,685 Location: Wellington	dont even start me on cracking manifolds....................... __________________ 1997 civic type r N1 taupo 2.2km track= 1.21.54 Manfield track 1.23.4

19th September 2007, 02:30 PM	#45 (permalink)
IMAQL8 Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 366 Location: Auckland	okay old owner said mani is from the states.. so not from ronnie... i'll just get ronnies input on what he thinks aswell in regards to this.. this weekend.. __________________ The go fast = ek civic sedan 220wkw@8psi running a GT3540R and a 4dr what more could you want... The daily = 1990 cb ack on integra type r wheels ftw...

19th September 2007, 02:41 PM	#46 (permalink)
b16a2 Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 2,284 Location: Howick	well its probly a xs power one, and if it is throw it away :wink: __________________ www.ISLMotorsport.co.nz --- Pm me for CUSTOM FABRICATION; headers, manifolds, exhausts, turbo setups, Chasis Prep etc. MyWork ___________________JESUS Loves U___

19th September 2007, 02:54 PM	#47 (permalink)
Hayce Senior Member 9,000rpm (S2000 Redline!) Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 7,031 Location: Hamilton	http://nzhondas.com/phpBB2/fs-b16-b1...ighlight=turbo Was one he had but apparently Phoniex bought it? Maybe he knows what it was replaced with... __________________ ....................................EK molester!..................gtrefinishers

19th September 2007, 04:09 PM	#48 (permalink)
IMAQL8 Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 366 Location: Auckland	looks similar to that one but i dont know if he actually used that one as the wastegate part looks like its in a dif place on my one... so maybe same people.. either way im just going to get the crack welded then go to ronnie to see what he says to do.. and put forward to him your guys ideas of bracing and son.. thanks for the help guys.. __________________ The go fast = ek civic sedan 220wkw@8psi running a GT3540R and a 4dr what more could you want... The daily = 1990 cb ack on integra type r wheels ftw...

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