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Old 30th July 2007, 02:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
doo0T!doo0T!
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With an external you can put manifold pressure either side of the diaphram, either forcing the valve shut or forcing the valve open.
Use a twin port boost solenoid and plumb it up to both sides of the diaphram, when the desired boost is hit the EBC activates the solenoid which swaps the pressure from one side of the diaphram to the other and goes from holding it shut to forcing it open.
This gives the fasted spool because the exhaust pressure can not fornce the valve open against both the wastegate spring pressure plus the boost prssure on the other side of the diaphram, especially when exhaust manifold pressure before the turbo is generally pretty similar to the boost pressure.

An internal gate does not give the option of feeding pressure to both sides of the diaphram so the exhaust pressure can crack the gate open early becuase there is only the wastegate spring tension stopping it.
An external can also be plumbed up like this and is how most people have it plumbed.
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Old 30th July 2007, 02:31 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!
With an external you can put manifold pressure either side of the diaphram, either forcing the valve shut or forcing the valve open.
Hmm, that is true. However there is technically nothing stopping you doing that with an internal gate either. Its just a different design of actuator. I wonder if any factory cars have dual input internal actuators?

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Old 8th August 2007, 09:06 AM   #28 (permalink)
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my sleeve arived yesterday now time to chuck em in.
time to strip the old b16a down
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Old 8th August 2007, 09:43 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Re: xsiv monsta b16a build

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Originally Posted by xsiv
aftermertik valve springs (still looking so pm me if u have some)
ti retaners
I bought in supertech for mine pm me if you want any info on them dawg.
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Old 13th August 2007, 07:46 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Have ya found anyone to weld the manifold yet??? :wink:
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Old 18th August 2007, 06:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
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well since i had to get a few more things for my paint job the engin build is going in hold untill i can get a bit more cash.
but in saying that i got me a few new parts

got these little gems to take the over lap out of the type r cams
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Old 9th October 2007, 12:11 PM   #32 (permalink)
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pulled my block spair block down, was in quite good condition. just had a bit of ware on one main bering.
appart from that it was all good.



took all my parts into clinder heads hamilton a got a writen quote.
this is what they priced me

Race (acl) main berings $152
B/end berings oem honda $136
thrust washers honda $32

clean block and parts $60
bore and fit sleeves $800
bore hone liners $160
surface clinder block $70
check fit big ends $48
check fit main berings $50
balance crank ass, pistons and rods etc $340
final clean and assemble $320
cleaning material $18

total $2203
total +gst $2481

+ possable $500 for hidden cost if aplicapiable

is this price fair???? im not sure. im waiting to hear back from one other place
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Old 9th October 2007, 12:56 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Sure adds up huh... Seems pretty fair to me, nice sleeving price (looks at a certain farmer boy brown :ph34r: )

I read from the start but are you still looking to run type R this and that? IMO with the output your wanting you'd be wasting you're time with type R stuff. Especially valve springs and head studs.
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Old 9th October 2007, 02:07 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayce
Sure adds up huh... Seems pretty fair to me, nice sleeving price (looks at a certain farmer boy brown :ph34r: )

I read from the start but are you still looking to run type R this and that? IMO with the output your wanting you'd be wasting you're time with type R stuff. Especially valve springs and head studs.
nothing really wrong with type r valve springs? (for the price) i wouldnt use standard type r headbolts tho.
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Old 9th October 2007, 02:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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bearings seem a bit steep. Tried STA?
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Old 9th October 2007, 02:47 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Well theres nothing inherently wrong with the springs no, but for the output expected brand new ones wouldn't be that much cheaper than a higher rated after market alternative (supertech, skunk2 etc), used type R springs would be retarded.
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Old 9th October 2007, 03:01 PM   #37 (permalink)
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the only thing type r im going to run is cams unless i dont finsh my b16a ported head in time, (then will use a type r head)
im sure i can find some springs and ti retaners for a good price, im just starting my head. pulling it down and cleaning it, then i will be DIY port job, second atempt. my mates zc on we did gave him a good power gains.
it wont be an huge port job tho.

once its done ile get it flow tested agains the type r head, and use the best one
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Old 9th October 2007, 03:06 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Oh in the 1st post you mentioned studs and spring or retainers or something...

Any gain's a good gain of course but on a turbo, I wouldnt get too gung-ho about porting the head out...
My memory is the poos, I see I said I'd pm you RE: the supertech valve train I got, did I ever sort you out with a quote?
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Old 9th October 2007, 06:16 PM   #39 (permalink)
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A little tip on getting your bearings for a better price.
Go to the acl race parts site, get the part number for the bearings you want then go to your local super cheap autos and the can order them in.
My acl race series big ends and mains cost less than $200 for both. Repco quoted over $300 8O
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Old 9th October 2007, 07:09 PM   #40 (permalink)
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My full ACL bottoms and mains cost me less than $200 from Repco
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Old 9th October 2007, 07:18 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVSCVC
My full ACL bottoms and mains cost me less than $200 from Repco
For race series? Staff discount? Granted my motor isnt a honda...
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Old 10th October 2007, 09:44 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayce
Oh in the 1st post you mentioned studs and spring or retainers or something...

Any gain's a good gain of course but on a turbo, I wouldnt get too gung-ho about porting the head out...
My memory is the poos, I see I said I'd pm you RE: the supertech valve train I got, did I ever sort you out with a quote?
yeah i think u did thanks, but ile put all my funds into the bottom end at the moment, thanks tho
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Old 10th October 2007, 09:46 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built4Speed
A little tip on getting your bearings for a better price.
Go to the acl race parts site, get the part number for the bearings you want then go to your local super cheap autos and the can order them in.
My acl race series big ends and mains cost less than $200 for both. Repco quoted over $300 8O
yes but dont the berings need to be measuered up, so how would i know what size to get, i have a brand new eagle crank and eagle rods, maby i could get the shop to measure them up then i got purchase them
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Old 10th October 2007, 04:58 PM   #44 (permalink)
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If youve got a brand new crank the bearings would just be standard
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Old 10th October 2007, 05:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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i paid under $200 for 2x set's of acl race bearings for a b18c and an h22a

you guys are getting ripped

oh thats mains, big ends and thrusts
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Old 10th October 2007, 06:06 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Yeh thats all discounted pricing people are quoting. Not retail 8)
Seems VERY expensive for thrust washers tho. I have never priced up bearings
Bet you feel gutted paying someone to clean parts for you when you could do it yourself

P.S they can't work out gst.
its 2203+12.5%=2478.38

If they can't do a simple math equation how are they going to measure and test fit bearings 8O
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Old 10th October 2007, 06:15 PM   #47 (permalink)
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If you want me to sort you out some ACL Race product flick me a PM, will be cheaper than retail 8)
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Old 11th October 2007, 09:00 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built4Speed
If youve got a brand new crank the bearings would just be standard
yes i have a brand new eagle crank and brand new eagle rods
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Old 11th October 2007, 09:02 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupe-R
Yeh thats all discounted pricing people are quoting. Not retail 8)
Seems VERY expensive for thrust washers tho. I have never priced up bearings
Bet you feel gutted paying someone to clean parts for you when you could do it yourself

P.S they can't work out gst.
its 2203+12.5%=2478.38

If they can't do a simple math equation how are they going to measure and test fit bearings 8O
all of a sudden your a pro engine builder?
but yeah i gues your right.. my h22a turbo must of stuffed out by now if they cant test fit bearings proply... hmmm
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Old 11th October 2007, 09:13 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Settle down moo he's taking the micky out of their math skills not your beloved past projects

Don't care if the crank is brand new you'd still want to size it...

A little off topic but people are mentioning the ACL race bearings, these are the ones with the bigger clearance right?
Wasn't there some problems and a big write up from Earl on HT about not using the race type as they were prone to causing failure on street cars?

Im looking for some myself so just interested in peoples experiences.
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