Turbocharging B16A/B18C

endles · 11th July 2002, 06:42 PM

If anyones interested
I can build B16A and B18C blocks to handle BIG forced inducion
resleaved, and solid decking etc
Done on CNC machine

Cement · 11th July 2002, 07:32 PM

Where are you getting the sleeves from ? if making them where is the material coming from ? Solid deck = darton sleeves hmm ? personally i would give solid decking a big miss and go for posted/spigoted sleeves instead.

Also have you actually sleeved a motor or just saying that you can do it if somebody wants to be a guinea pig ?

I have looked into making some sleeves, got an old scoured bore B16 here to muck around with ... just can't afford the material at the moment but would be a fun project

Would be interested to see your design. I have modeled it all up, sleeving for 81mm bore would be a piece of piss ... 84mm and more would need a fairly long experimental trial to test the flat portion sealing mm hmmm.

endles · 11th July 2002, 08:00 PM

Im using Darton sleeves
They can be bored out too 84mm, like what Ive done

Im making then solid deck as a brace that the block needs to be machined to make it fit. then loc tied into place
creates solid deck and girdle effect
using aerospace grade alloy, very strong and high heat resistence
this link is very similar to what ive done
http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries

Blitza · 11th July 2002, 11:02 PM

umm, how muchy?

Cement · 12th July 2002, 08:10 AM

Ahhhh ... when bored to 84mm how much wall thickness were you left with between cylinders ? actually 90mm centres so 6mm i guess ?

I am thinking that unless they have a really thin wall where they spigot into the block they are going to be sealing on flat faces correct (where the spigoting diametres overlap) ? If so let me know how it seals there.

You just use 620 loctite to seal at the bottom on a slight press fit ?
Did you look at Golden Eagle sleeves ? I think they are the best design around by far !!

I would be keen to see some pictures

endles · 12th July 2002, 09:02 AM

Wopsy
got carried away
ment to say I can do 84mm
ive only gone 82mm with mine
Im bying the sleeves and making the brace.
the loctie is only there to hold the brace in place when resurfacing the block. It is a press fit.
I had trouble with the gaurd working its way out when machining and loctie was my solution.

90CIVICSIR · 12th July 2002, 01:40 PM

all this sounds wiked

although i am getting lost a bit. my old man is a fitter and turner and has been all his life he has his own business and is supposedly very good so do u think he would be able to do all this for me?

endles · 12th July 2002, 04:16 PM

If he can use a CNC and has accress to one and has alot of time on his hands.
Be carful though, only the good ones are able to get within the tolerances to make it reliable/worth it. (good CNC machines cost $millions and get charged out at bout $200+++ an hour

It cost me bout $5g the first time around, and thats with very cheap CNC rates (mates rates)

Cement · 12th July 2002, 05:39 PM

millions ? hehe ... the last machine my work bought was brand new and in the order of a few hundred thousand, was an Okuma lathe i think.

Any good manual machine operator should be able to achieve tolerances in the order of ±0.05 fairly easily (if ya can't you should not be charging people for ya work !! ) ... with a little due care and attention you should be able to machine to what ever size you want ±0.02 ... more than enough for a press fit/spigot at size for size etc.

People seem to get baffled and impressed falsely by anything with 'CNC' in it ... it surely is repeatable and fast but at the end of the day is still only as good as the person running/calibrating the machine .... sooooo yea a good tool maker will have no trouble maching things to spec.

Still keen for some pictures endles

would be interested to compare their design to mine and Golden Eagle's etc.

endles · 12th July 2002, 07:16 PM

Workin on the pics Cement
Just digging them up
Im not too sure were talkin bout the same thing....
Is the Okuma lathe a lathe or a milling machine?
The CNC mill I used was an industrial one at scott technology used for making presses and assembly lines for appliances etc
It was the smallest one there they had that I could fit my block onto
Did u check out these links?
http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries
http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries2
http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries3
Im no engineer or anything but my research is what im going by.
I would hate to think what ive done has been a waste of time

What do you think?

Cement · 15th July 2002, 06:34 PM

Sweet pics will be awesome

Yep we are talking about the same thing, i was just using the lathe as an example of what a modern CNC machine costs ... i guess the sky would be the limit when buying new machinery !! To do a block sleeving however a CNC isn't really needed, and if you are to use one you don't need a 5 axis or anything too fancy.

Check this (this is an online tour of Golden Eagle, the sleeve design i would definately go for !! ) :
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=464

What you have done will certainly not be a waste of time when you give it some high boost

I would think that if you paid $5k that there would have been cheaper ways of going about it, normally you wouldn't do 'R&D' sorta work straight on a CNC unless its making something from scratch as you don't know what problems you may have along the way, and as you have found it aint cheap ! CNC machines would normally be used for production work so thats what you are competing with on a cost basis ... X amount of hours that the machine aint putting product out the door is lost profit that you are paying for.

However now that you have done the leg work and the programs are all worked out and the machine is there with a jig (i assume ?) you can repeat the process with relative ease ... thats where you will hopefully get some of that lost cash back eh ?

When i was looking into it as a DIY project i found that the material is VERY hard if not impossible to get in NZ. I found a company in Australia that can cast the right stuff (centrifugally cast ductile iron thick wall tube) but would be roughly $1k for enough to sleeve 3 motors. Freight was a fixed price up to 1000kg tho so for $1500 you should get enough for 6 motors etc

Thats all ya need + loctite and a lot of time !!
The Golden Eagle people state that if you boost over 60psi y(or 40 ? a lot anyhow hehe) you void your warrenty

endles · 15th July 2002, 08:48 PM

Im a bit dubious about keeping the open water jacket...
good idea but would like to see some results
AND reliability....
Hondas open water jackets are famous for sagging - hence the bracing that gets put into the top of the sleeving.
Ive seen many a honda m/bike with open water jacket and performace mods that wont form a seal with the head after extreme use
And forced induction in an N/A car is a cut above that
still
Interesting concept though 8)

endles · 15th July 2002, 10:18 PM

I have pics now
hmmm posting
dont have a website to host

Cement · 16th July 2002, 08:09 AM

I think a better term for the GEM method would be 'semi-open' ... you'll see that its still got a lot of area to locate the top of the sleeve and stop it moving.
The reliability would be better than with a closed deck surely ? You don't have to dig too deep on say honda-tech to see what people think of closed deck honda's (mainly block guards) ... also to see where they recommend getting their sleeves done

Either way though you will end up with a fairly boost happy motor !!

MUGENPRO2 · 16th July 2002, 05:28 PM

u dont need a cnc
all u need is a milling machine
i've seen how they do it u can get a cnc for 25g

endles · 16th July 2002, 06:08 PM

I noticed that they mill the surface to a different level than the sleeve tops
We use to do this to motorcycle engines to accomidate for the sagging of the sleeves at high hp/heat/rpm levels
And also noticed that they were the only ppl willing to resurface the blocks.....
sounds to me like this is a drag engine only application
ie high maintenance
would still like to see one

Cement · 16th July 2002, 07:42 PM

A CNC mill for 25g ? Does it come with the punch tape maker ? hehe

They use a stepped sleve top of 0.02mm i believe to act as a large o-ring of sorts. Apparently its better than a copper o-ring.

They are definately not a drag only motor, take a look on honda-tech.com and you'll see GEM getting recommended left right and cetre

I would love to do a 84.5mm sleeved B16A for boost, it would be fairly bad ass in a EF

MUGENPRO2 · 16th July 2002, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cement

A CNC mill for 25g ? Does it come with the punch tape maker ? hehe

They use a stepped sleve top of 0.02mm i believe to act as a large o-ring of sorts. Apparently its better than a copper o-ring.

They are definately not a drag only motor, take a look on honda-tech.com and you'll see GEM getting recommended left right and cetre

I would love to do a 84.5mm sleeved B16A for boost, it would be fairly bad ass in a EF

not to sure if it cums with it but i use it to make a sleeve or what ever u call it audi looking shape, with holes so water can circulate through the block.
made it as to the diagram Bergonholtz uses it about 2year ago ( 9.8sec in the u.s)on b16a motor group A motor

Z-Man · 17th July 2002, 08:41 PM

wow, i didnt understand much of that, understand it a lot more with the links you guys put down!

Quote:

JG Pro Series generation two finished block ready for assembly. This block can support up to 850 Bhp dyno proven. $950.00 exchange.

all i can say is HOLY ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you should do it cement!!! make us EF civic owners look like god!! (well you anyway)

only question i ask, is can the crankshaft handle that much boost/power? (cos its obvious everything else now can!!)
would you still get lower comp pistons even if you did that?

can you guys make lower comp pistons on the machines you have??

endles · 17th July 2002, 09:55 PM

The block ive built has 9.0:1 compression

surrprisingly the crank is sweet if balanced properly 8O 8O 8O
yes the mills can make pistons, but its all in the design of them me thinks
would be good if someone in nz started making pistons
me thinks they would do a roaring trade 8)

Cement · 18th July 2002, 10:16 AM

Sadly i am no longer an EF owner

I don't think you would want to drive a 850hp EF on the street

The B series cranks are a damn good forged piece from the factory, you'll not find many people that replace them ... just the hardest of the hard core or people wite more money then they know how to spend. You would basically always want lower than standard compression for a boosted application, i think about 9:1 is popular these days with good management etc (i am sure thats still probably more than a factory Holden or Ford motor hahaha)

Making a piston is do-able as are most things with enough time and money ... however, to make anything that is going to be any good (read : forged ... unless you can get solid rod in the material that is correct for the application and machine its ass, but LOTS of work there) you'll need a forging die and machine, not the sort of things most engineering shops will have !! Then you have to get the material at the right spec/temp, make the forging, do any heat treatments you need and then machine it ... you can see how its only really viable in a large production run situation.

I think there are a couple of places in NZ that make forged pistons, ScotC mentioned 'Proturn' in Chch i think.

For peeps that don't know, a forging is basically when you have a lump of material (hot or cold forging) of the right mass which you place in a 'forging tool/die' which is basically a hardened mould of the shape of the finished product plus allowance for machining after forging. This lump of material is then smacked very hard and very fast to literally squash it into the desired shape.
The benefit of forging is that the grain structure of the material conforms to the finished shape creating a much stronger item (also the compaction helps create a nice dense material) than say something machined from a casting where you chop through the structure at all sorts of odd angles.

Anyhoooo below is a forged B20 vtec piston that i found on the way to work i think it fell out of the back of SIRCVC's truck ... thanks bro

These are forged by Wiseco and finished in house at ENDYN, you'll notice the loverly Scotch Brite finish on the top as well as the groovey design.

Blue dots = as forged faces, you'll notice that compared to a standard piston there are no 'over hangs'. This is so the forging tool can retract out of the finished forging ... there can be no 'shadows' of sorts if you were to shine a light directly into the end of the piston.
Pink dots = Machined faces to give the correct and accurate geometry/weight
Green dot = wrist pin hole, these use a floating pin and have a honed finish on the pin hole for a nice snug slide fit.

ps : You can make DIY forgings with some 'Play doh' and your fist !! Sit the play doh in errrrr something ya fist can just fit in

Now SMASH THE CRAP OUTTA IT !!! instant forged pistons for ya Jelly car hehe.

endles · 18th July 2002, 12:30 PM

Finaly some pics of my first block
I bought the brace off JG engine dynamics and machined it all in NZ

hmm solid decking on a honda block 8)

9:1 compresion, forged pistons, forged rods........ :twisted:

apparently its good for 30psi + boost 8O
I'll keep you guys posted on what it ends up doing 8)

Z-Man · 18th July 2002, 04:34 PM

well ill be VERY interested to see what its like when its finished!!!

90CIVICSIR · 21st July 2002, 11:45 AM

not bad at all pretty damn tidy really now all you need is a honda gearbox that can take as much power as that block can produce

good luck!
what do ya recon 206kw outa this baby?

endles · 21st July 2002, 03:34 PM

450kw 8)

11th July 2002, 06:42 PM	#1 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Turbocharging B16A/B18C If anyones interested I can build B16A and B18C blocks to handle BIG forced inducion resleaved, and solid decking etc Done on CNC machine

12th July 2002, 01:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
90CIVICSIR Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,380 Location: Wellington	all this sounds wiked although i am getting lost a bit. my old man is a fitter and turner and has been all his life he has his own business and is supposedly very good so do u think he would be able to do all this for me? __________________ ".....watching fate as it flows down the path we have chose..."

16th July 2002, 05:28 PM	#15 (permalink)
MUGENPRO2 Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: May 2002 Posts: 1,280 Location: Howick	u dont need a cnc all u need is a milling machine i've seen how they do it u can get a cnc for 25g __________________ www.qbikdesign.co.nz

21st July 2002, 11:45 AM	#24 (permalink)
90CIVICSIR Senior Member 5,000rpm (VTEC Power!) Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,380 Location: Wellington	not bad at all pretty damn tidy really now all you need is a honda gearbox that can take as much power as that block can produce good luck! what do ya recon 206kw outa this baby? __________________ ".....watching fate as it flows down the path we have chose..."

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11th July 2002, 07:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	Where are you getting the sleeves from ? if making them where is the material coming from ? Solid deck = darton sleeves hmm ? personally i would give solid decking a big miss and go for posted/spigoted sleeves instead. Also have you actually sleeved a motor or just saying that you can do it if somebody wants to be a guinea pig ? I have looked into making some sleeves, got an old scoured bore B16 here to muck around with ... just can't afford the material at the moment but would be a fun project Would be interested to see your design. I have modeled it all up, sleeving for 81mm bore would be a piece of piss ... 84mm and more would need a fairly long experimental trial to test the flat portion sealing mm hmmm.

11th July 2002, 08:00 PM	#3 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Im using Darton sleeves They can be bored out too 84mm, like what Ive done Im making then solid deck as a brace that the block needs to be machined to make it fit. then loc tied into place creates solid deck and girdle effect using aerospace grade alloy, very strong and high heat resistence this link is very similar to what ive done http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries

11th July 2002, 11:02 PM	#4 (permalink)
Blitza Senior Member 4,000rpm (Taxi Drag) Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 607 Location: Waitakere	umm, how muchy?

12th July 2002, 08:10 AM	#5 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	Ahhhh ... when bored to 84mm how much wall thickness were you left with between cylinders ? actually 90mm centres so 6mm i guess ? I am thinking that unless they have a really thin wall where they spigot into the block they are going to be sealing on flat faces correct (where the spigoting diametres overlap) ? If so let me know how it seals there. You just use 620 loctite to seal at the bottom on a slight press fit ? Did you look at Golden Eagle sleeves ? I think they are the best design around by far !! I would be keen to see some pictures

12th July 2002, 09:02 AM	#6 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Wopsy got carried away ment to say I can do 84mm ive only gone 82mm with mine Im bying the sleeves and making the brace. the loctie is only there to hold the brace in place when resurfacing the block. It is a press fit. I had trouble with the gaurd working its way out when machining and loctie was my solution.

12th July 2002, 04:16 PM	#8 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	If he can use a CNC and has accress to one and has alot of time on his hands. Be carful though, only the good ones are able to get within the tolerances to make it reliable/worth it. (good CNC machines cost $millions and get charged out at bout $200+++ an hour It cost me bout $5g the first time around, and thats with very cheap CNC rates (mates rates)

12th July 2002, 05:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	millions ? hehe ... the last machine my work bought was brand new and in the order of a few hundred thousand, was an Okuma lathe i think. Any good manual machine operator should be able to achieve tolerances in the order of ±0.05 fairly easily (if ya can't you should not be charging people for ya work !! ) ... with a little due care and attention you should be able to machine to what ever size you want ±0.02 ... more than enough for a press fit/spigot at size for size etc. People seem to get baffled and impressed falsely by anything with 'CNC' in it ... it surely is repeatable and fast but at the end of the day is still only as good as the person running/calibrating the machine .... sooooo yea a good tool maker will have no trouble maching things to spec. Still keen for some pictures endles would be interested to compare their design to mine and Golden Eagle's etc.

12th July 2002, 07:16 PM	#10 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Workin on the pics Cement Just digging them up Im not too sure were talkin bout the same thing.... Is the Okuma lathe a lathe or a milling machine? The CNC mill I used was an industrial one at scott technology used for making presses and assembly lines for appliances etc It was the smallest one there they had that I could fit my block onto Did u check out these links? http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries2 http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/proseries3 Im no engineer or anything but my research is what im going by. I would hate to think what ive done has been a waste of time What do you think?

15th July 2002, 06:34 PM	#11 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	Sweet pics will be awesome Yep we are talking about the same thing, i was just using the lathe as an example of what a modern CNC machine costs ... i guess the sky would be the limit when buying new machinery !! To do a block sleeving however a CNC isn't really needed, and if you are to use one you don't need a 5 axis or anything too fancy. Check this (this is an online tour of Golden Eagle, the sleeve design i would definately go for !! ) : http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=464 What you have done will certainly not be a waste of time when you give it some high boost I would think that if you paid $5k that there would have been cheaper ways of going about it, normally you wouldn't do 'R&D' sorta work straight on a CNC unless its making something from scratch as you don't know what problems you may have along the way, and as you have found it aint cheap ! CNC machines would normally be used for production work so thats what you are competing with on a cost basis ... X amount of hours that the machine aint putting product out the door is lost profit that you are paying for. However now that you have done the leg work and the programs are all worked out and the machine is there with a jig (i assume ?) you can repeat the process with relative ease ... thats where you will hopefully get some of that lost cash back eh ? When i was looking into it as a DIY project i found that the material is VERY hard if not impossible to get in NZ. I found a company in Australia that can cast the right stuff (centrifugally cast ductile iron thick wall tube) but would be roughly $1k for enough to sleeve 3 motors. Freight was a fixed price up to 1000kg tho so for $1500 you should get enough for 6 motors etc Thats all ya need + loctite and a lot of time !! The Golden Eagle people state that if you boost over 60psi y(or 40 ? a lot anyhow hehe) you void your warrenty

15th July 2002, 08:48 PM	#12 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Im a bit dubious about keeping the open water jacket... good idea but would like to see some results AND reliability.... Hondas open water jackets are famous for sagging - hence the bracing that gets put into the top of the sleeving. Ive seen many a honda m/bike with open water jacket and performace mods that wont form a seal with the head after extreme use And forced induction in an N/A car is a cut above that still Interesting concept though 8)

15th July 2002, 10:18 PM	#13 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	I have pics now hmmm posting dont have a website to host

16th July 2002, 08:09 AM	#14 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	I think a better term for the GEM method would be 'semi-open' ... you'll see that its still got a lot of area to locate the top of the sleeve and stop it moving. The reliability would be better than with a closed deck surely ? You don't have to dig too deep on say honda-tech to see what people think of closed deck honda's (mainly block guards) ... also to see where they recommend getting their sleeves done Either way though you will end up with a fairly boost happy motor !!

16th July 2002, 06:08 PM	#16 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	I noticed that they mill the surface to a different level than the sleeve tops We use to do this to motorcycle engines to accomidate for the sagging of the sleeves at high hp/heat/rpm levels And also noticed that they were the only ppl willing to resurface the blocks..... sounds to me like this is a drag engine only application ie high maintenance would still like to see one

16th July 2002, 07:42 PM	#17 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	A CNC mill for 25g ? Does it come with the punch tape maker ? hehe They use a stepped sleve top of 0.02mm i believe to act as a large o-ring of sorts. Apparently its better than a copper o-ring. They are definately not a drag only motor, take a look on honda-tech.com and you'll see GEM getting recommended left right and cetre I would love to do a 84.5mm sleeved B16A for boost, it would be fairly bad ass in a EF

17th July 2002, 09:55 PM	#20 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	The block ive built has 9.0:1 compression surrprisingly the crank is sweet if balanced properly 8O 8O 8O yes the mills can make pistons, but its all in the design of them me thinks would be good if someone in nz started making pistons me thinks they would do a roaring trade 8)

18th July 2002, 10:16 AM	#21 (permalink)
Cement Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 1,686	Sadly i am no longer an EF owner I don't think you would want to drive a 850hp EF on the street The B series cranks are a damn good forged piece from the factory, you'll not find many people that replace them ... just the hardest of the hard core or people wite more money then they know how to spend. You would basically always want lower than standard compression for a boosted application, i think about 9:1 is popular these days with good management etc (i am sure thats still probably more than a factory Holden or Ford motor hahaha) Making a piston is do-able as are most things with enough time and money ... however, to make anything that is going to be any good (read : forged ... unless you can get solid rod in the material that is correct for the application and machine its ass, but LOTS of work there) you'll need a forging die and machine, not the sort of things most engineering shops will have !! Then you have to get the material at the right spec/temp, make the forging, do any heat treatments you need and then machine it ... you can see how its only really viable in a large production run situation. I think there are a couple of places in NZ that make forged pistons, ScotC mentioned 'Proturn' in Chch i think. For peeps that don't know, a forging is basically when you have a lump of material (hot or cold forging) of the right mass which you place in a 'forging tool/die' which is basically a hardened mould of the shape of the finished product plus allowance for machining after forging. This lump of material is then smacked very hard and very fast to literally squash it into the desired shape. The benefit of forging is that the grain structure of the material conforms to the finished shape creating a much stronger item (also the compaction helps create a nice dense material) than say something machined from a casting where you chop through the structure at all sorts of odd angles. Anyhoooo below is a forged B20 vtec piston that i found on the way to work i think it fell out of the back of SIRCVC's truck ... thanks bro These are forged by Wiseco and finished in house at ENDYN, you'll notice the loverly Scotch Brite finish on the top as well as the groovey design. Blue dots = as forged faces, you'll notice that compared to a standard piston there are no 'over hangs'. This is so the forging tool can retract out of the finished forging ... there can be no 'shadows' of sorts if you were to shine a light directly into the end of the piston. Pink dots = Machined faces to give the correct and accurate geometry/weight Green dot = wrist pin hole, these use a floating pin and have a honed finish on the pin hole for a nice snug slide fit. ps : You can make DIY forgings with some 'Play doh' and your fist !! Sit the play doh in errrrr something ya fist can just fit in Now SMASH THE CRAP OUTTA IT !!! instant forged pistons for ya Jelly car hehe.

18th July 2002, 12:30 PM	#22 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	Finaly some pics of my first block I bought the brace off JG engine dynamics and machined it all in NZ hmm solid decking on a honda block 8) 9:1 compresion, forged pistons, forged rods........ :twisted: apparently its good for 30psi + boost 8O I'll keep you guys posted on what it ends up doing 8)

18th July 2002, 04:34 PM	#23 (permalink)
Z-Man Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 333	well ill be VERY interested to see what its like when its finished!!!

21st July 2002, 03:34 PM	#25 (permalink)
endles Team NZH: Retired 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 2,489 Location: Dunedin	450kw 8)