DURTYEF3'S JDM Front End Conversion

[DURTYEF3]

New forum = New threads so i Thought it was about time i get off my lazy ass and "attempt" to do this Facelift conversion on my '93 Integra Si (Round Light)

So i thought i'd document it and do a bit of a writeup for all the people that are in my boat and have only a
fair idea of what you need, what to do, etc. I'll try be as indepth as possible so that anyone that's not entirely
sure will be able to follow. (im a noob myself)

What you need: (Note: FL = Facelift, PFL = Prefacelift) (Click for reference pic)

FL Headlights(ITR etc) Good to get the headlights plugs as well.
FL Guard Left
FL Guard Right
FL Grille
FL Bonnet
FL Bumper
FL Bumper support
Radiator Support

(This is the way i've done it, i realise there maybe better ways etc, which is why any constructive feedback is welcome.
All i want to do is help people that may not understand threads that are already written up)


Quick Reference:

- JDM Radiator support (Cutting, Fitting & Welding)

- JDM Headlight Wiring (Do it yourself)




First things first, you have to remove the PFL parts before you can even start,so...

------------------------------------------------------------
PFL PART REMOVAL

Start with the Bumper,

Along the top of the bumper is 8 screws (Phillips), and 2 bolts (10mm) each side. Once those are removed, theres 1 (10mm) nut & bolt on the edge of the bumper,each side (In the wheel arches). Now the 1 (10mm) nut & bolt each end of the bumper in the wheel arches.

Once all those are removed carefully pull the bumper out slightly and disconnect the plugs running to both indicators and any others connected to the bumper. Yippeee your bumpers off!

Bumper removal




(note:my bottom plastic cover under the bumper had come off from bottoming out so there will be 2 or so bolts that you will need to remove additionally)
------------------------------------------------------------

Now to the headlights,

Disconnect the plugs from the headlights first, before removing 2 (10mm) bolts on top of the headlight and 2 (10mm) bolts on the brackets by the headlight plugs. Your headlights are now Free!

Headlight Removal


------------------------------------------------------------

Sideskirts,

For the guards to come off, i first decided to take the oem sideskirts off, seen as without removing them you cannot remove the guards. Depending how manoevarable you are and how low your car is, you can jack the car up if you must, otherwise use a small phillips screwdriver to take out the 7 or 8 self taping screws underneath the sideskirt.

Once this is done, push the sideskirt from the back (rear wheel) toward the front wheel. This will unclip the sideskirt and now its removed (This sounds so simple yet it bugged for for ages, until searching NZH; Do each side.

Sideskirt removal






------------------------------------------------------------

Front guards

Now the sideskirts off, you now have access to 2 (10mm) bolts that hold the bottom of the guard to the car. Remove these and the other (10mm) bolt at the top of the door above the hinge area. Once thats done, theres 3 (10mm) along the top of the guard and 1 (10mm) bolt underneath at the front of the guard. Once thats all done your guard will come off, but becareful not to rip it off straight away. Pull it out slightly and disconnect the sidemarker plug (only because i nearly ripped it off haha) Do each side.

Front Guards removal





(Note: if you have the inner plastic guard there will be a number of screws that you will need to remove before guards come off, may even need to remove each wheel to get to some screws.)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well thats as far as i got so far, your car now should have a naked front end bar the bonnet. This can be easily removed by removing 2 (10mm) bolts each side. Reason mines not removed yet is, i dont want things getting wet. More removal to come!!!

[DURTYEF3]

UPDATE:

Continuing where i left off, i removed all the PFL parts including the bonnet and decided now to start removing all the niggly little things like Radiator, Air-Con Radiator and anything that will obstruct the welding that needs to be done on the Radiator support & also to make it easier for whoevers going to weld it. Whilst i was at it i searched up NZH and come across Badcf4's Dominator thread and learned brofessionally how to remove my aircon etc. Cheers mate.

Bare Front



Now theres two ways i've found around to make this conversion possible. One being to remove completely the PFL radiator support by Spot welding the odd 20+ spot welds down each side, or buy cutting the top half of the FL radiator support and the same to the PFL one and weld FL top half on PFL bottom half of the radiator support. Confusing?.. heres some pics (via honda-tech)

Option #1

Use whole radiator support. Supposedly a bit more time consuming having to drill out every spot weld and then re-welding,lining up etc.


BOLTING YOUR SUPPORT ON IS NOT AN OPTION

Option #2

Use the "T Bar" method which is supposedly quicker as your replacing the difference between the PFL & FL supports. Places like Password JDM supply the "TBAR" now.
User on H-T



Anyways after thinking a bit i decided with #2 mainly because it seems the way to go. Plus your not really drilling the bottom of the PFL support which is i guess a main structural point and has been welded with strong factory welds . Top half is mainly for headlight and radiator support and this will suffice.

After it was all bare and ready to be welded up. I pmd b16a2 aka luke who has done a few of these conversions now and done a bit of fabriation work for various nzh'ers and arranged for him to come and weld the support on etc seen as i suck @ welding + don't have access to one.

The only thing different between the two supports is the top half. headlight mounting etc.

First things first, you need to cut the PFL radiator support above half of the headlight housing like in pic and the whole of the middle support beam off..see pic.In my case luke decided to cut further down im guessing to make it a bit stronger with a bit more to weld as opposed to the H-T user.

PFL Radiator Support Cut



PFL Radiator Support goneburger



Once removed you'll want to clean around where you've just cut to make sure when you weld the FL support on you get nice contact.

Luke (b16a2) getting his grind on



Take the PFL support and match it with the FL support marking with a felt or the likes so you know where to cut. Take your time!!

Cutting FL support to match. Watch ya fingers



Again clean your work...

Moarrr Grinding/Cleaning



Heres where you need a welder or at least someone that knows what they're doing, hence me behind the camera,

Before you weld the PFL support on i suggest you get a grinder and grind off a bit of the PFL headlight surround(if thats what you call it)? that stops the FL headlights from being positioned right. pics.

Cut this off so headlights can fit in headlight housings





Luke welding Top half of FL Radiator support



More welding



Front support on, grinded,cleaned & painted



Thats that bit done , Thanks to Luke for taking time out from his studies to help a fellow NZH'er out. Appreciate it man. Top job.

So now the FL support is on the biggest part of the conversion is done, now all thats left is to test fit the parts,headlights,bumper etc and check it all is sweet, and then get to the wiring side of things which i will document as well.

Note: You may want to also use a FL bonnet latch assembly and cord as ive found the PFL cord is way too long (not really that much of a hiccup) and the PFL doesnt match up so good with the FL latch under the bonnet. In my case i also managed to grab the FL items when i did the front cut, so it was made much easier for me. Which ever way it shouldnt be hard to figure out.

pics (note: just test fit all just sitting there hasn't been aligned etc as i have more to do)

Headlights,Guards, Grille on






The old front end



Bit of a panda at the moment, but will be painted when i can get that sorted

The new front end



Well now i got the car looking like a car again, im pulling the parts back off to do the wiring (Note: you may have noticed i already attacked the loom prior to doing the conversion, so the wiring was done before.). The wiring is all done and ill update this post with pics and how i did it etc.

[badcf4]

um, why are your pics just thumbnails matt ??

I cant even click on em :???:

[DURTYEF3]

--------------------------------------------------------------------
JDM Headlight Wiring

On to the wiring sides of things, first when i got the front end off the Facelift car i also managed to scab the headlight plugs which were a big help for me being able to have the headlights plug in and out like oem. (I've seen people hardwire their headlights, or individually plug each wire in, but for the more stock look i suggest you try and get ahold of some, of which shouldnt be too hard off a FL wreck or in the NZH Parts exchange.


First off for those that don't know...

PFL Headlight





FL Headlight




Okay so easiest thing first. Some may already know that PFL Headlight Harness (Thats the Oem wiring) does not completely plug straight up with the FL headlights,

Reasons being:

1) PFL park lights as in the above pics are in the bumper
2) PFL indicators are also located in the bumper where as they are in the actual headlights of the FL model
3) Most PFL don't have foglights (There are some which do, hence "some". As i found out yesterday mine was one of them that actually did, but they have been removed. Shot VT

Indicators

This is quite simple as i found out, hooking up the indicators between both headlights is a matter of disconnecting the indicator plug on the PFL indicator (Green & Black wires) and plugging them into the JDM FL Headlight

Unplug PFL indicator




Plug into FL indicator




(Note: I found i had to also use the FL housing which holds the FL indicator bulb, so try getting the bulbs/plug thingee when you acquire your headlights as it may help if you have the same problem)

Your indicator should now work Test it, but don't run battery flat like me. The same applys for the other headlight


Driving Lights

Just like the indicators, your able to use the oem PFL driving light connector with its FL counterpart.

This is the plug you'll want




This is where it goes on the FL headlight




And bobs your uncle. Your driving light should now work fine. If you do have problems check bulbs are not blown etc (one of mine were). The good thing is if you need to drive your car around during the night at least you have indicators and driving lights that are easily hooked up before you start getting down to cutting, twisting or whatever, soldering, heatshrinking, + conduit & electrical taping,(best way to do wiring like this IMO) takes a while lol

Before you start on the wiring for the rest, you might want to familiarise yourself with a diagram of the wiring of the JDM headlights.

One that's used religiously on Honda-tech




I dunno if it was just me, but i kinda had a hard time understanding ^ that diagram, but after completing the wiring, i then realised how easy it actually was. Ill try show real pics so its alot easier.


The Reason why you have to Re-Wire



JDM FL Headlight Plug Overview




Hi-Beams

You want to find the positive wire from the PFL Oem plug which is [Red/Green stripe] and snip that. Connect that to the JDM FL Headlight plug [Top Right]Hi beam Positive Pin. See pic below or (Pin #2 on H-T JDM Headlight Diagram )

Once thats done you'll want to also run the ground wire [Black] on the PFL Oem plug to the Ground pin on the JDM FL Headlight plug [Bottom Left] See pic or (Pin #3 on H-T JDM Headlight Diagram ) Thats hi Beams done

Note: For the JDM Headlight, it uses the Hi Beam ground as the main ground for all the lights.

Positive Wire for hi-beams



Negative Wire for hi-beams




City/Park Lights

With the city/Park lights you need to cut the PFL plug off entirely as you can't use it for the FL plug. You'll have a Red (positive) and obviously Black (Ground/Negative) once you've done that.

Connect the Positive wire to the City/Park light pin on the FL headlight plug. See pic below or (Pin #5 on H-T JDM Headlight Diagram ).

The negative wire left over can be connected to the main ground of the headlight (Hi Beam ground) you just did earlier. Pic below, or refer to above.

Postive Wire for City/Parks


Negative Wire for City/Parks





Fog lights

Now the fog lights, First you need to get a few things before you start. You need a SPDT 12v Horn Relay which you can pickup for next to nothing or in my case $8 from Dick Smith. You'll need a 30amp Fuse Holder + Fuse, in my case i grabbed a In-line Blade fuse holder from Dick smith which cost $3 or something and had a spare 30amp Blade fuse lying around. (This is because i'm running a dedicated power straight to the battery, so need to have a fuse in there somewhere). You can splice into ignition or another power source which probly wont require the fuse. And a 12VDC 30amp Switch or the Oem Fog switch $

Note: The parts below is what i brought, you can use any variation of switch, fuse holder etc as long as the specs are the same.

The Relay



Buy one


Fog Light Switch





Buy one

OR you can use OEM one



Fuse Holder + Fuse


Buy One




Fog Light Wiring





HID (for 98spec Headlight users)
Still to come

Car Painted
Still to come

Any feedback/questions welcome,


....Still updating

[DEFECT]

Take a break man, play some GTA.

[CRZYSi]

nice .... finally did it aye

[VT]

ohh yeahh lol should swap headlights with me

[FORDSKIN]

Must be nearly time for paint then Matt?

[Sifu]

Need some duct? haha lol

Shit I remember hearing you buy Jin's front end AGES ago!

[[QUIKdc2]]

I'd love to have the time to give this a crack, square lights are so much better than the rounds, good effort on the writeup, but I still can't get the pics to go big...

[DURTYEF3]

Originally Posted by CRZYSi

nice .... finally did it aye

Yeah mate, bout time aye.. lol :razz:

Originally Posted by VT

ohh yeahh lol should swap headlights with me

If you have some 98spec ITR lights i may :-D

Originally Posted by FORDSKIN

Must be nearly time for paint then Matt?

Hey Mike, don't worry i've got you in the people to contact list lol, once i get my shit sorted

Originally Posted by Sifu

Need some duct? haha lol

Shit I remember hearing you buy Jin's front end AGES ago!

Ahh yess the ducts, i will definitly pm you about those mate. Cheers, and yeah we cut the front end of Jins wreck a while back now. I've ahhh been on holiday

Originally Posted by [QUIKdc2]

I'd love to have the time to give this a crack, square lights are so much better than the rounds, good effort on the writeup, but I still can't get the pics to go big...

Give it a crack mang! still got lots of writing and pics to put up, had a few problems with the code in my post. All pics should go big now cheers for that.

On another note: Updates to come..

[DURTYEF3]

Updated, Facelift conversion complete, pics up. Wiring diagram, how i did it and pics to come.

Cheers

[Bl4ckt0p]

Good work man! Looks awsome. This thread is going to help alot of people im sure.

[Slammmed]

looking good!, cant wait to see pics of it all painted. Facelift Teg + Black = sex!

[DURTYEF3]

looking good!, cant wait to see pics of it all painted. Facelift Teg + Black = sex!

Cheers man, check back soon


Updated write up with How To:

- FL Conversion
- Indicators Wiring
- Driving Lights Wiring
- Hi Beams Wiring
- Park/City Lights Wiring

Still to come:

- Fog lights
- HID
- Paint the car

Hope this helps Is it easy to follow ? lol

Matt

[Hayce]

Wicked write up Matt, well done

[madDC4]

The conversion is well done dude. Looks like you guys fitted it up very nicely!!!

Good stuff bro!!!

[DEFECT]

Keep the essay coming.

[Buzz]

Since you have to respray half the car anyway, you thought about doing it another colour? :p

[DURTYEF3]

Originally Pos