Couple of questions, b20, blox

[Green Machine]

Just have afew questions about my new engine im building.
Im building a b20 running a b16a head.
My first question is has anyone used blox valves, dual valve springs and retainers? How go are they compared to type R b18c ones?

2nd question is would it be better to use a b18c block and resleeve it to 84mms (the same as b20) and use the b20 crank still as this would mean that it would already have the vtec oil gallaries which would save having to T one in so less likely for it to come lose and apparently there isnt much metal? at the bottom of the b20b block to allow it to resleeve properly?

Cheers Haden

[[QUIKdc2]]

Cats outta the bag, how high are you planning to rev it?? Type R ones should suffice, can't beat Mr Honda at his own game.

[nva2nd]

Whats your buget?

[Green Machine]

Dont have a budget, basically ill keep buying bits until I have all the bits that I need. Im not really worried about how long it will take. As long as its done within 1 year. In saying that Im not going to be going out and buying the best brand stuff when other less branded parts do exactly the same job.

[Green Machine]

Originally Posted by [QUIKdc2]

Cats outta the bag, how high are you planning to rev it?? Type R ones should suffice, can't beat Mr Honda at his own game.

Id be happy to be able to rev safely to 8500.

[EVLTEK FBI AKL]

std valves are fine....you would only go to after market for size or high comp (if clearance super tight).......


If you are gonna run a decent big cam like skunk pro series etc you'll need something gruntier the blox in the valvetrain department......

[Hayce]

Why use a B20 crank in an 84mm B18C Block? Why not just use a B18C one, or are they all identical?

<- Knows zero about B20's.

[bmgjet]

if you are made of money resleve the b18c but just using a b20 block would be cheaper. Then using b20z pistons so your cr is about 10 instead of 8.

the standard b16a valve springs will be fine for 8200rpm, I wouldn't want to rev a b20 any higher then 8k anyway, Theres no need because it will make enough power down low and reving that high is just asking for something to go wrong. You will need after market pistons if you want to use cams more aggressive then ITR ones.

[Green Machine]

Oh just so you know im planning on running something between 11.5-12.2 compression je pistons and eagle rods. I dont see the point in changing from a b18c5 to b20 otherwise.

@hayce I thought b20b cranks were different to b18c? I have both anyway.
Guess ill keep on reading up.

@adam So you dont rate blox valve springs? Any suggestions?

[Hayce]

Supertech

[Green Machine]

Well after alot of reading on honda-tech it seams that alot of the people over there run stock sleeves and dont have many troubles. Im thinking if maybe a block guard would suffice. hmmmm

[EVLTEK FBI AKL]

if you were going to run a really grunty cam such as pro skunk2 then i would personnaly use the skunk pro springs....

[BWDOWN]

RS Machine pistons is what I'm gunna run should get to about 11.7:1 I'll be trying to import some in soon too

[Green Machine]

Just talked to speedfactor. Will be around 2300 to sleeve a b18c block to 84mms.

[Coupe-R]

someone i know has a sleeved and stroked B18 to 2.1L running around 176kw+

its the expensive route, depends what power you are after. I would talk to people in the know and only spend $$ on things you need.

So you want B20 bottom end with eagle rods and JE pistons.

I have no experience in this but I am not sure what the advantages would be in sleeving the motor for a mild N.A build?

Remember its just an average N.A build not MEGA power or RPM.

From my honda-tech.com research
B20 crank is different (how do you think it has more cc) bore AND STROKE

You run a ITR crank it will require more $$$ and little better R/S ratio but less CC and torque no doubt.
See what the pro's say about it.

the expensive route would be B18C sleeved+bored, and aftermarket stroker crank.
Big capacity B series.

Or the cheap way is B20

[CoupeTurbo]

when i had a b20 vtec in my old car i just used a b20b crv bottom end and it was suffice to my requirements. depends on what your expecting from the engine however.

[Genkei]

that much money . . . u can drop a k in it . .

[Green Machine]

Originally Posted by Genkei

that much money . . . u can drop a k in it . .

haha yeah. Looks like ill be going with for now, b20b block running eagle rods and rs machine pistons at 11.7:1, going to use a block guard and girdle on the bottem end. And use my type R itr head. Will get some h22a injectors or possibly something better.

I think that should do me for now.

[Genkei]

that should be sweet !
let me know if u need abit of tech help ( hopefully not ) hehe

to be honest . . why spend 10k+on a B Series now days when the K are so cheap ?

[bmgjet]

Just go with a C32B lol.

[Genkei]

how much will that set up be and run and running

if its 10k then ill give u a shell and sort it out

[berman]

Originally Posted by Genkei

that much money . . . u can drop a k in it . .

Matty's old car had the K in it and the last NIMM right?

[revlimit]

The reason I spent so much damn money on a B series is because I like them! But really for me a K motor maybe similar money to build but you have to re-engineer the car to take it, a lot has to be changed and thats not cheap or easy. The B series still take a lot to beat, simple and easy to work with.
The cranks in B18B and B20B are 89mm compared to the B18C 87.2mm, extra stoke always does a lot to promote torque, that's why B18Bs always feel very lively off the mark compared to a B18C.

[Genkei]

yea the K20 was still in the EK but the brake booster wasnt . . .

there were no brakes after the 2nd lap out !

[Green Machine]

Took out the pistons/rods this morning and the bores look primo. no scratches or anything that I can see. Does it pay to give them a tidy up anyway before putting in new pistons/rods?