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| Competition Discussion of modifications, tuning, driving techniques related to autocross, road racing, and drag racing. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Auckland | How can u tell when da cambelt needs replacing ????? hi guys, i just need some input please. how can u tell when the cambelt due to be replaced ? i know it's normally on 100Ks, but when i got the car it's already 123Ks n there's no sticker nor documentation saying da belt has been replaced. n how do i know that my water pump is shagged ? i've been told my water pump is shagged on my EG6 thus caused the cambelt a bit noisy too. pls help.. i dont want da belt to snap when i drive around in it.. thanks.. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 4,000rpm (Taxi Drag) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 555
Location: Auckland | With a Cambelt you 'cant tell that it needed to be replaced' untill it snaps, which isnt so good. The rule is 100k, so if it hasnt been done, get it done as soon as you can eh ![]() |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Retired 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,855
Location: Christchurch | Unless you have written receipts that it has been replaced, check the belt to see if the product numbers are still visible, thats what we do at our garage to check if belts have/haven't been replaced if there is no other way of knowing.. its a pretty touch and go method but it seems to work fine. Also dethy you can tell if a belt is going to break because of frays, cracks wear marks etc. My advice is that if you dont know if it has been replaced, ring the previous owner to see if they have reciepts. If they dont check for products code on the belt.. if there is none take it to a garage, better to outlay a small amount of money now than to end up paying a large amount later on ![]()
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,136
Location: Wellington | When I got my car it was on 119k, I didnt know what had and hadnt been done to it so I got everything serviced. All the belts, fuilds and filters... Cost me $700 but I happy for peace of mind and I know everything has been done and stuff like the cam belt Ill never have to do again |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,975
Location: Outside NZ: United Kingdom | i had the same problem with my water pump on my DA6.my radiator was nearly dry whn i finally got it fixed!youll be able to tell if its gone because youll find cooling fluid around the belt case and also your radiator will be emptying, though probable slowely.when they replace the water pump they will also replace the cambelt because its usually stressed. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Auckland | thanks for all the replies guys.. i can't really call da previous owner since im the 1st owner in NZ. i got this knocking noise from my engine bay, it's very noticable especially on idle. a mechanic told me it's from the cambelt n another told me it's the water pump noise. this noise getting more and more noticable. but if it's da water pump problem, why the engine doesn't overheat ? i haven't checked the radiator whether it's empty or not, i will do it soon.. which part of the water pump that normally sh!t itself ? just the bearing or the whole unit ? i assume we have to replace the whole unit eventhough it's only the bearing ? |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Junior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 17
| Why don't you check and see if it is still the Honda original Belt? It should say Honda on there with the part number. If its a diffferent brand then it has been replaced. You can still change it for peace of mind also. Honda belts last longer than aftermarket belts also.
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 302
| isn't it meant to be at 80,000km that you change your cambelt! Hey i reckon you are better off just changing it. Cos if its making that rattle noise then its probaly your cambelt anyway. I use to have that same sorta noise on my lude, b4 i got mine changed. It's going fine now. Ya better off paying the $300 odd dollars to get it changed, rather than waiting for it to snap while you are driving.. and ending up paying over a grand ![]() |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Guest
Posts: n/a
| hey i'll tell u this, get the belts done as soon as possible. I'm speaking on personal experience. My cambelt snapped in the north shore of auckland at 3.00am January 1st 2002. Yep three hours after new years. what a fukin great way to start my new years. Anywayz it cost me $900 to fix, so get your belt done as soon as..... |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Guest
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| definately get it done. + when they do get them to clean the head. Just had mine done at marshal auto, in east tamaki for $360 with new tensoners. The dude recommended to get it checked quite regulary cos of the high stress put on it by the vtec (+ my driving). Mine was loose and slipped a tooth in the intake cam gear/. bla bla ... sorry :wink: |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Guest
Posts: n/a
| go get it done ASAP bro i learnt the hard way! mine snapped! 634 dollars later and it was sweet but i was told that i was lucky that my whole motor didn't shit itself. better to spend a few bucks and get a new belt then spend a few hundred bucks for a new motor ![]() |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Auckland | hi guys.. thanks for da tips.. got it done today $295 for the labour n new tensioner (i supplied my own cambelt). i still can hear da "clunk clunk" noise on idle.. only can hear on idle/low rev.. n it's not cv joints coz i know wot cv joints sound like.. |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
Location: Auckland | Vent, SPOT ON matey !!!!! checked it out today, oil was in below even the minimal level. pour new fresh oil in after, then she runs sweet.. dat's why it was so noisy before.. again.. cheers ![]() |
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