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| Competition Discussion of modifications, tuning, driving techniques related to autocross, road racing, and drag racing. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Junior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 6
| I drive a 98 Intergra VTiR. It's only done 28,000kms and haven't done shit to it. Well first things first, and just wanna do the basics, like a full exhaust kit and air filter system. What would you guys recommend??? Brand??? Type??? Model??? etc. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 6,000rpm (Max Torque) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,260
Location: Whangarei | i would reccomend that you get a k&n filter on a pod, as well as a ducted cold air box to put it in, and a 2.25 inch mandrel bent exahust - if you can afford a decent set of extractors get those too, or just look for some type r ones. next get yourself some decent tyres and rims, or just tires if you like the stock ones. then get a good clutch and lighter flywheel |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Retired 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,855
Location: Christchurch | 2.25" will be big enough? I dunno what they come out standard but I'd be more leaning towards something a little bit bigger.. What do they come with standard?
__________________ www.nissansilvia.co.nz |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 382
Location: Auckland | Hey i think 2.5 right through and 4inch muffler. I gota custom intake with pod, go 2 beyond in avondale they fitted my intake all up 4 $300. I got 93 vtir is yours nz new? what price did u pay 4 it? |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Junior Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 6
| Thanks for the info. 2nd NZ owner. I payed $20,000 for it. (And still paying it off LO ![]() The previous owner was a lady from Parnel, and she got it brand new. And by the way she looked, I don't think she knew shit about the car. I don't think it did 8500rpm till I came into the picture. It's pretty fast standard, but too quiet and doesn't give that grunty feeling like I hear from other VTEC's out there. And can't really hear the VTEC come in. My mate's trying to sell me this mandrel pipe for the filter, but my car has ABS in the way, near the front. Now he said to cut the pipe and it should be sweet as. I think the filter will be too close to the engine. Will it affect performance? All for $160. This includes a Simota filter. Good deal? But what brand is better? K&N or Simota? Why? Gonna work really hard on my car though, wanna try and get good enough for show and shine this year in Auckland... and maybe race and see what I do at Meremere, so maybe I won't go for this cheap shit. However, don't really know shit about what to do. My car is fucken bad! 98 (facelift), Rosso Corsa RED, will get some 17 or 18" mags, Enkei Sherikens, lowered, will get tinted 35% side and rear and 45% for the front (won't give a shit about road fines for the front tints). But I want the fucken thing go fast first!!! |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Retired 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,855
Location: Christchurch | Get a cold air intake :smile: Simota and K&N are both excellent quality, I'd reccomend K&N though (Typhoon CAI Anyone? :wink ![]() Also you are allowed 35% tints on all your windows except the windscreen, which is allowed a glare strip (as low as the sun visors go, or 200mm max I think).
__________________ www.nissansilvia.co.nz |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 44
| it all depends on what path your taking for performance, N/A or TURBO for N/A i would recomend the Apexi N1 Cat back, it might be a bit pricey but its of the best quality, and as for cold air intake iceman,aem,apexi and if u really wana spend alot of cash go with the mugen. N/A= 2.25" gives the right amount of air flow turbo = 3" |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 382
Location: Auckland | I got my integra nz new 2nd hand from a woman it had 58k, she didnt know anything about it hehe. I have know props with abs its custom done from beyond. I ran a 14.7 last friday on 1/4. A fact nz new integras r 13hp down on jdm tegs. :smile: |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 44
| yea there is a big fine not sure exactly what it is, there tight with alot of things here. thats whats good bout having a honda, cops think there gutless, they KNOW SHIT. but it help having the v8's around gettting there attention. |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 51
| K&N is nice man!! But I prefer Apexi.. If u play high speed.. The new Apexi air filter will be help much! (But bloody expensivve, more than K&N..... 2.50 inch mandrel bent exahust is necessary... want a good muffler!? I prefer HKS muffler.. it is bloody nice man!! |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 7,000rpm (Peak Power) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,248
Location: Auckland | 2.5 is to big for N/A you will most likely lose power, at the low end definitely and I'd doubt as to whether you would see any advantage in the top end power when compared to a 2.25 inch system. And I'd get at least one good resonator, talked to dude a testin station the other day and he said if your car makes more noise than when it came out of the factory they will pull out the decibel meters! And they can fail you just like the police. |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Mod 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,392
Location: Auckland | heh, if you really want the good stuff, get AEM cold air intake (www.aempower.com). I can find one for you for about NZD$750 to your door :smile:. Full bolt on application, DIY, a lot of the guys in the group use them, and they swear by them. We should have dyno results for the S2000, DC5 and BB6 units soon! :smile: Put it this way, it kinda changed the sound of Yong's S2000 to a F1 car. hehe! But if you just want to do a pipe/filter combo, then I would reccomend you see Beyond Performance - 09-8282811.. they've done a million of these applications, so they know what they're doing. :smile: |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Mod 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,680
Location: Auckland | 2.25" is as big as I would go for N/A as for cold air intakes? dont bother paying $800 for something you can make for $300 (or less) I'll have a chat to Pharnos about re-posting the DIY CAI that used to be on the old NZ Integra Club website. |
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| | #18 (permalink) |
| Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 44
| yea your gonna buy a shit intake, give it 7 months and it will be fucked. then u will be spending another 300, so in the end ull b paying more. if u do somthing dont rush save extra $$ if u have to and buy somthing that will last and b worth it, if u do somthing do it right dont half ass it. |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Mod 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,680
Location: Auckland | It's not as hard as you might think, to make your own CAI. For example (on my da6), all you need is a 3" u-bend (of certain dimensions), a couple of hose clamps, and a suitable pod filter - and maybe some brackets (if you wanted..) Cut the U bend in 3 seperate places.. join them together in a certain way, using the clamps, attatch the filter, and presto! To make it last, just buy good quality piping, good quality clamps, and take your time building it! Basically all you are doing, is skipping the branding, and you've got pretty much the same product - with your choice of filter! Also with this particular method, you can shorten the piping, and leave the filter in the engine bay (if the weather is bad, and you're worried about getting water in the filter) so in summer, put the CAI on, or in winter, keep the extra length of piping in your cupboard, and have a regular style of intake! |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Member 700rpm (Idle) Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 44
| hmmm sorry but i wouldnt try that with my setup thruth is company's take years - months to produce a product, the aem for example is one of the best out, it looks like the rest, what makes it better then the other? its the time the company's put into producing the product thats why u might get an extra 4 hp or wateva. and its PROVEN to give better performance. how do u know the DIY gives power for all u know u could loose it, that means uve just wasted your money on materials. |
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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 412
| All in all.. CAI = cold air, so unless you're doing something really silly (like introducing new blockages, or mounting to a heat source etc).. cold-air is gonna = some form of performance gain.. for not much money :smile: I believe what AEM do different to other brands is not go too large on the diameter of the piping, to keep air flow / velocity up (while not going too small, which restricts air-flow)... I vaguely remember reading it off website or something. Not saying this is so.. just saying what I recall :smile: |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Team NZH: Mod 8,000rpm (B Series Redline!) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,392
Location: Auckland | I think Dave/Cement's car is an ultimate testament to DIY work. Words! But, what does AEM do different? From my limited knowledge and having personal noseys at all the ones I've ordered in for the guys in the AM group :wink: (except for Mac): The piping is 6061 aluminium. (every body say oooo... this is what most aluminium flywheels are machined out of..) This weighs considerably lighter than normal grade steel. I think Mac shaved at least 5kgs off his car installing his CAI. There are no weld marks in the AEM intake pipe - most of them are 1-piece pipes, but the ones that aren't utilize silicone pipe joints (not sure of their proper name) for strength and maximum air flow. Reminds me of Samco joints, really. :smile: They utilise (or used to) a K&N pod filter. I'm not sure that they do now, although it looks very much like one, and yes, it is re-cleanable. The pipe is coated in some kind of heat repellant paint? If installed properly, it touchs no part of the engine bay bar a rubber mount and the TB. This prevents heat from being inducted through the metal in the engine bay. Dyno proven/stringent USA quality control standards... Probably means nothing to us here though :wink: And! They look hella cool. hehe! _________________ http://www.allmotorgroup.com BRING ON THE REVOLUTION <font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: F1ERCE on 2002-02-24 22:38 ]</font> |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Senior Member 3,000rpm (Grandma Drag) Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 412
| DA8! .. check out http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm for a good step by step guide etc. |
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