XPLOIT - CL1 - New MUGEN Exhaust!

[Boostin It]

Originally Posted by XPLOIT

I dont want to have to modify my firewall to fit in an aftermarket Inlet manifold......

errr why would you have to modify your firewall? if its an aftermarket one for h22a.. should fit regardless..

[XPLOIT]

Originally Posted by Boostin It

errr why would you have to modify your firewall? if its an aftermarket one for h22a.. should fit regardless..

I thought I read it somewhere..... Maybe this thread?

Figured that becuase it is a Euro R the engine may be slightly different lean or something I dont reallt know.

[XPLOIT]

Originally Posted by WhiteRice

Also - you doing the intake manifold? I've got all the stuff on order from Skunk, but apparently you need to beat the firewall back an inch to fit it :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

Here it is ^^^

[itekdu]

You shouldn't have to modify anything, the manifolds are a relatively similar size I think?

[XPLOIT]

I hope not.... Will find out soonish anyway.

[chuckles2]

the firewall mod is required if the h22a is in a eg or dc, not a accord or prelude, the skunk manifold sticks out further.

[XPLOIT]

Thanks for clearing that up Jase,

[chuckles2]

Originally Posted by XPLOIT

Thanks for clearing that up Jase,

on a side note i wouldnt put a skunk manifold high on your list, the euro-r manifold is pretty good, i got 1 on my ITR.

[WhiteRice]

Originally Posted by ItekdU

You shouldn't have to modify anything, the manifolds are a relatively similar size I think?

Nup. I've got the new manifold already. Measureing it vs the stockie, the runners are about 30mm longer. As to being designed for the engine, sure, but it's a skunk product, so it's designed for the US model Prelude type S - slightly larger engine bay.
The manifold itself will fit, but all the adjacent bits of stuff that bolt onto it hit the firewall, and get damaged as the engine moves slightly on the mounts.
It does take quite a bit of time to put on - it's quite far back in the engine bay, and have you seen the amount of stuff that you have to remove and reattach to it? I was quoted $300 for labour from Beyond. They've done a handful apparently. I'm not about to undertake it myself.

Fair point to someone regarding the Hondata gasket - it's on order, along with the 70mm skunk TB. The IM is 66mm, so that's getting honed out to 70mm too. I still have to find a suitable intake.

So the whole setup will be done shortly after 41 gets the parts to me. I'll let you all know if I think there's any difference to performance.
It would be interesting to dyno the car before and after, but probably more money that I want to spend on a point of interest. Anyone know the cheapest way to dyno??

[XPLOIT]

Originally Posted by chuckles2

on a side note i wouldnt put a skunk manifold high on your list, the euro-r manifold is pretty good, i got 1 on my ITR.

Ok, I would want to bore out the inlet size though right? To what size and what kind of throttle body should I be looking at? (Size/good brand)

[Horny_Devil]

50 for 2 power run then slap it on then another 50 after, and if ur feeling rich, tune it and share the gains from a tune aswell

if uve seen how close a d series skunk 2 manofold sits then ull know, just run harder engine mounts, and u can do a couple of other things to

[WhiteRice]

Originally Posted by XPLOIT

Ok, I would want to bore out the inlet size though right? To what size and what kind of throttle body should I be looking at? (Size/good brand)

70mm is huge. Skunk IM is 66, pretty easy to take it to 70. engines like to breath.
TBs - you can get any size you want, and prices are variable. Beyond quoted me $450 for their "out of Thailand" one. Then 41 started selling skunks for $420. No-brainer.
Blox etc is also good, but the big advantage of the skunk is that it cuts out the coolant lines.
The factory TB runs coolant through the TB assembly to heat it up, so the car runs smoother before it's warm on cold mornings. It's not difficult to bypass this coolant line, which cools and thus densens the air-fuel vapour. Some people claim you can get 3-4hp doing this. Having the skunk TB means you don't need to block off as many hosetails, and it looks a bit nicer. Do this, along with the hondata IM gasket, it might actually have a decent effect.
Some claim that bypassing the coolant setup makes the throttle more likely to jam on if it's really cold. Unlikely with an aftermarket TB, esp one as good as the skunk. (I'm not on a retainer from skunk, BTW)
I've had mine bypassed all this year, had no probs (apart from a coolant plug bursting, spilling coolant everywhere and overheating. Dammit)
If one is going to do all of this, one might also consider wrapping your headers, or doing bonnet vents, to keep engine bay temps down. you've got a carbon bonnet, doncha, XPLOIT?

Horny- I might wait for the S300 before diving into tuning too far.

[XPLOIT]

Mint, thanks for that.

Yea I do have a carbon bonnet...........

[WhiteRice]

Heeeeeeeeey..
does anyone know how much the CL1 factory wheels weigh? I can't be assed taking them off and weighing them.
The wheels I'm looking at weigh 6.8kg each, but if factory is lighter than this, I won't bother. form << function

[XPLOIT]

I have mine off but still have tires on them...

[VTEC22]

Skunk 2 manifold will fit with a lilttle mod on a CL

the two little vacume outlets on back of the mani hit the firewall so just take them out and plug them

Dave had one on his

[nemesisteg]

remember too if your going to change intake mani gasket your going to be 5mm maybe closer to the firewall again!!

[XPLOIT]

Well...

Its been a while, thought I would bring this thread back up and tell you some plans.

I have downgraded my original plans for a semi-descent N/A build to just a low grade. For a couple of reasons. I now own 3 cars and cant afford to build lots at once on one car. Keeping my daily driver going is my priority.

After SIMM, my brakes are rooted so am replacing them with some slotted Mugen rotors and descent pads. Not sure what brand yet... Possibly Mugen or EBC.

Looking at an Apexi VAFCII, Skunk2 Adjustable cam gears and some descent headers.

My car is currently off the road with rego on hold. Damn it feels weird!!

Will keep you updated.

I have added a few little cosmetic bits but nothing worth posting about, so just look at pics when I post them

Cheers for watching the low-grade build!

[XPLOIT]

Quick pic of new parts. - Cheers Adam, at FBI.

DC Sports Headers
Skunk2 Adjustable Cam Gears
Gizzmo CamFC

Skunk2 gearknob is on its way

[lazyman]

what does cam gears actually do anyway??

[Horny_Devil]

allows you to adjust when the cam opens or closes in relation to the rest of the motor. so you can move the cam acouple of degrees forward or backwards to increase the ammount of air being brawn into the cylinders etc.

more or less it allows u to make more power and at the same time shift the power band up or down a few 100 rpm.

its the sort of thing u have to tune on the dyno though so you can see the affect it is having on your motor

[XPLOIT]

Will be getting it tuned once installed

[Horny_Devil]

good shit

[Demon]

shit man, those extractors are pretty fucking bling!

[XPLOIT]

They look good in my lounge