EF7 hybrid ZC/D16a6 Turbo. Indexed

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by BTLF3D

just to give you an idea, mine is 1mm and i have a BB turbo, i dont know what size yours would need to be tho.

Mine looks around 1mm and it's a wet sleeve T25, worked fine for Nigel though but he might not have had quite the same amount of oil pressure as my engine seems to be running.
It still has the running in oil in it which is 20-50 so maybe when i go back to the 15-40 the oil pressure will drop a bit.

[nzcivicracer]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

It still has the running in oil in it which is 20-50 so maybe when i go back to the 15-40 the oil pressure will drop a bit.

Crikey! Are you going to run it on 10-30 once its all run in?

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by nzcivicracer

Crikey! Are you going to run it on 10-30 once its all run in?

Magnatec, I think it's 15-40. Might be 10-40 not sure. I dont want to spend too much on oil as I'll be chucking it out ever 5000 k's.
The 20-50 is Valvoline "Running In Oil" It actually says that on the bottle and is supposed be formulated to bed rings in properly. you are supposed to use it for 400kms then swap over to standard oil.

I once put 5-30 Penzoil Synthetic in a ZC and it was nearly all gone by the time i got to Manfield!

[nzcivicracer]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

I once put 5-30 Penzoil Synthetic in a ZC and it was nearly all gone by the time i got to Manfield!

Was that when your valve stem seals were gone?
I run Honda 10-30 in my EF3, I have thought about running Motul 5-30 for track days though

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by nzcivicracer

Was that when your valve stem seals were gone?
I run Honda 10-30 in my EF3, I have thought about running Motul 5-30 for track days though

Everyone told me it was my stem seals but after i replaced them it still used the same amount of oil. I ended up ripping it out in anger and buying the d16a7 short block which ended up as this current motor. So out of a bad came a good.

[Trench_Rat]

Yeah I guess so but what ever happened to the 65psi limiter he was supposed to install

hhhmmm crap duno why its running so dam high i used the softest relief spring i could find and then i shortened it so im buggered if i know. may to drop the sump off and undo the bolt on the relief valve make sure theres nothing in there jamming it because that doesnt make sense. Either that or i sent you the wrong pump and still have your one sitting here somewere ops:

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by Trench_Rat

hhhmmm crap duno why its running so dam high i used the softest relief spring i could find and then i shortened it so im buggered if i know. may to drop the sump off and undo the bolt on the relief valve make sure theres nothing in there jamming it because that doesnt make sense. Either that or i sent you the wrong pump and still have your one sitting here somewere ops:

Ha ha nah dont worry about it mate, I'd rather too much oil pressure than not enough, it comes down to 4 bar once the oil's hot and it's got 20/50 running in oil in it. I'm sure it'll come right with thinner oil. Dont worry about it if push comes to shove I'll just put a smaller restricter on the turbo.
I might need another pump done for my next engine too.

[miketurb0honda]

hey man looking mint!

hey would u be able to plz tell me how do ya hook up a egc valve and where can ya get them from??

i read runs off a boost solinoid so like a pressure switch?

how much are they man?

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by miketurb0honda

hey man looking mint!

hey would u be able to plz tell me how do ya hook up a egc valve and where can ya get them from??

i read runs off a boost solinoid so like a pressure switch?

how much are they man?

It's an Apexi product. i got mine for $50 2nd hand works via a cable and push/pull switch in the cabin but you could easily put a dash pot on it and use vacuum/boost to open it or an electrical solenoid.
It's just a butterfly valve like a throttle body, EGC stands for Exhaust Gas Control.
They are nothing new, they used to be called punk valves back in the day when guys put them on hot rods.
You dont need to buy an Apexi one either lots of Yankee cars have them as standard for exhaust noise control. So do Audi V8's.

[nzcivicracer]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

I might need another pump done for my next engine too.

A NA special?? :wink:

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by nzcivicracer

A NA special?? :wink:

Nah Big Boost Beast.

[nzcivicracer]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

Nah Big Boost Beast.

8)

[doo0T!doo0T!]

o.k here's the vids, it's definately running.
These were taken with no exhaust and open turbo, I had a piece of wet cardboard on the block to stop the hot exhaust scorching.
it's pretty free revving with the light flywheel.

Dont laugh at the oil smoke from the turbo

[doo0T!doo0T!]

photos from the exhaust build.
It's basically done, just need to weld in the threads for the exhaust temp probe and o2 sensor and then wrap it all up in heat wrap.
It's got some stainless 3" where it comes out of the bumper and I've made an aluminium ring which will attach to the bumper and the exhaust will come out of the centre.





left end is flange on turbo, pipe curving down is for rear exhaust.

[nemesisteg]

hows the car going regarding the over heating issues? i take it the alloy radiator is new?? i had one fabricated and when installed my car did exactly the same, on the dash gauge temp was between cold and normal but on power fc hand controller temp was over 100degrees. got a new thermostat installed and it was no better. after talking to ronnie lim he told me to drill holes in the thermostat so the warm/hot water thats hitting one side can get to the other side so its got a bit of pre-flow before the thing actually opens, i drilled 3 holes in mine and now it takes forever to warm up and at 100kms i have to flick the fan off or it goes back to cold. after andre simon ran my car on the dyno at autosalon and saw how long it took to warm up he commented on it and i told him the story, he then told me the one hole is all you need. just a suggestion

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by nemesisteg

hows the car going regarding the over heating issues? i take it the alloy radiator is new?? i had one fabricated and when installed my car did exactly the same, on the dash gauge temp was between cold and normal but on power fc hand controller temp was over 100degrees. got a new thermostat installed and it was no better. after talking to ronnie lim he told me to drill holes in the thermostat so the warm/hot water thats hitting one side can get to the other side so its got a bit of pre-flow before the thing actually opens, i drilled 3 holes in mine and now it takes forever to warm up and at 100kms i have to flick the fan off or it goes back to cold. after andre simon ran my car on the dyno at autosalon and saw how long it took to warm up he commented on it and i told him the story, he then told me the one hole is all you need. just a suggestion

Hmm, interesting, still having issues in that my auto-gauge temp gauge is reading 100deg somtimes more. I'm wondering if my temp gauge is reading wrong though because I have no anti-freeze/anti-boil in it at the moment so theoretically it should boil at 100 degrees. it isn't boiling though and the thermostat is opening and closing as per normal ( i saw it open then close again while i was watching the water in the funnel when I was bleeding it)
The fan's not coming on and to the touch everything on the engine seems to be normal temperature.
Everything bar the gauge is telling me that things are normal, I migth try wiring the guage to my civic which i know is running at normal temperature and see what it reads.

If i were you I'd definately go back to a normal thermostat, running cold all the time isn't very good for your engine, I cant see why drilling the holes would improve your cooling at all, logically all it's going to do is screw with the ability of the thermostat to regulate the temperature.

Cheers for the info, did you have the power FC hooked up with the old radiator first and did it read o.k then?

[nemesisteg]

yeah everything was a.o.k with the original half size civic radiator i had in, bout a constant 95 degrees. but yeah my fan wasnt coming on either, its on a switch now. thing was that my thermostat switches bout 82degrees or whatever but my radiator was cooling the water to less than that out the bottom, so the water that was hitting the thermostat was never hot enough to open it, even if water going in the top made it as high as 115degrees!! we tryed bleeding the system etc several times and in the end the hole in the thermostat fixed it once and for all. but yeah i was just told because the thermostat was never opening there was no flow in my cooling system, just needed the holes in thermostat to give the water a helping hand in the right direction. the one thats in there now will be coming out and i'll replace it with another honda thermostat with maybe only one hole and see if it sits around normal temp a bit better, have only had it up and tuned for 3-4weeks so far.

[BTLF3D]

it will be your gauge, i have a cheap autogauge gauge too, it sits on 100 all the time when in the ecu it stays on around 82-85deg's.

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by BTLF3D

it will be your gauge, i have a cheap autogauge gauge too, it sits on 100 all the time when in the ecu it stays on around 82-85deg's.

Thats good to know.

Originally Posted by nemesisteg

yeah everything was a.o.k with the original half size civic radiator i had in, bout a constant 95 degrees. but yeah my fan wasnt coming on either, its on a switch now. thing was that my thermostat switches bout 82degrees or whatever but my radiator was cooling the water to less than that out the bottom, so the water that was hitting the thermostat was never hot enough to open it, even if water going in the top made it as high as 115degrees!! we tryed bleeding the system etc several times and in the end the hole in the thermostat fixed it once and for all. but yeah i was just told because the thermostat was never opening there was no flow in my cooling system, just needed the holes in thermostat to give the water a helping hand in the right direction. the one thats in there now will be coming out and i'll replace it with another honda thermostat with maybe only one hole and see if it sits around normal temp a bit better, have only had it up and tuned for 3-4weeks so far.

Hmm, yeah that still seems odd though, the water should be flowing out of the engine past your thermostat and into the bottom hose, well thats the way mine runs anyway. Down the bottom hose up the radiator and in the top hose.
The thermostat spring and valve and shit is on the engine side of the thermostat so it opens dependent on the engine water temp alone.
My thermostat was opening as per normal even though the water in the bottom hose was stone cold, it would close pretty quickly afterward because of the temperature drop as th e water flowed over it but seemed to climb back up and re-open pretty quickly after that.

Maybe we have both bypassed too much water through our turbo's, if we have then the water will be circulating through the pump and turbo but not around the block and head as much as it should be.
The water pump always pumps water regardless of whether the thermostat is open or not but say for instance the thrmostat is shut and the water pump is supposed to be pumping engine water past the back of the thermostat and around the bypass tube but it isn't flowing enough because we have bypassed it with the hoses to and from the turbo.
if that was the case the water directly behind the thermostat might not be heating up enough to open the thermostat so the engine coolant just keeps getting hotter and hotter while the water behind the thermo stays cooler and the thermostat doesn't open.

[BTLF3D]

Try taking the thermostat out and running it like that for a while and see how long it takes to warm up etc, i dont run a thermostat because we could not get it to stop getting up in temp on the dyno.

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by BTLF3D

Try taking the thermostat out and running it like that for a while and see how long it takes to warm up etc, i dont run a thermostat because we could not get it to stop getting up in temp on the dyno.

Yeah if it comes down to it I guess I'll have to but I'd rather run one if I can as i hate it how it takes so damn long to heat up without one. Cant be good for the engine and on the motor way it'll run way too cold.

[BTLF3D]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

Yeah if it comes down to it I guess I'll have to but I'd rather run one if I can as i hate it how it takes so damn long to heat up without one. Cant be good for the engine and on the motor way it'll run way too cold.

it doesnt take that long, just remember you have a turbo in line to help heat it up :wink:

[StandardStyle]

Ur turbo setup etc is awesome! puts my stinky home made turbo setup to shame

and that exhaust opening thing is so 8)