EF7 hybrid ZC/D16a6 Turbo. Indexed

[doo0T!doo0T!]

The latest in the saga is I have to re-tap out all the head bolt holes in the block to 12mm as no one seems to be able to supply me with quality 10mm bolts longer than 150mm.
i wont be buying forgies for a wee while now as i just bought another civic to drive while this crx is off the road.
but on the bright side the civic had a few good bits that will find their way onto the crx. Vented carbon Bonnet, SLR style vented fibreglass gaurds, black projector halo head lights and a billet short-shift kit.
I also just finally got a set of old-skool cyber side skirts and door cards to go with the front and rear bumpers.

[Trench_Rat]

those 10mm arp's i ordered have arrived they are 10mm x 1.5mm thread im not sure on the length but pretty sure they would be long enough a few people in the staes have them in thier zc's i duno how becasue my zc is a 12mm bolt but yeah if you are interested let me know

[lofreq]

just read up on your project so far mike good stuff dont listen to the nay-sayers - offset IC is cool! center mount is so 2002. after the bumper goes on, and a cool filter, and your oil cooler and licence plate it will visually balance out sweet.

im hoping my existing program on the turbolink will do you right for baseline and driving but with different compression ratios etc remember my tune allowed for shitty compression due to the decomp plate, if you run higher compression the tune will be proportionally leaner. anyway if you go to quad extras then i guess you can just drill a new set of holes in the inlet mani, run individual extra injectors beside the stockers on their own rail (just double up a rail i guess) and that should do it. i had ridiculous boost spike probs on my car before the electronic boost controller and the turbolink still handled it ok using only the 2 extras so i dont see a HUGE insurmountable prob sticking with the turbolink for now. it was still quick enough to cover for the spike. after the HKS EVC and Gizzmo my car was fine up top at 'full' boost. only prob was the turbo dropping 1psi at redline from 5500rpm (from 14.5-13.5psi) running out of puff to fill the decompressed space. thats why i anticipated 185ish+ on a higher compression motor at same boost. youre right to consider a chip or other management later if this still isnt enough. id hazard a guess to say you will run out of puff before you run into fuelling probs. disco potato then?

keep us updated on how youre goin im workin on my tank slowly as well - twin turbo 6 gonna be dropped in just before xmas that should be fun eh! got a nice big single turb for it as well, for later ive been documenting my build in my link below too

take it easy!

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by lofreq

my tune allowed for shitty compression due to the decomp plate, if you run higher compression the tune will be proportionally leaner. anyway if you go to quad extras then i guess you can just drill a new set of holes in the inlet mani, run individual extra injectors beside the stockers on their own rail (just double up a rail i guess) and that should do it. i had ridiculous boost spike probs on my car before the electronic boost controller and the turbolink still handled it ok using only the 2 extras so i dont see a HUGE insurmountable prob sticking with the turbolink for now. it was still quick enough to cover for the spike. after the HKS EVC and Gizzmo my car was fine up top at 'full' boost. only prob was the turbo dropping 1psi at redline from 5500rpm (from 14.5-13.5psi) running out of puff to fill the decompressed space. thats why i anticipated 185ish+ on a higher compression motor at same boost. youre right to consider a chip or other management later if this still isnt enough. id hazard a guess to say you will run out of puff before you run into fuelling probs. disco potato then?

Hey nige, good to hear form you again, yeah the projects been on hold a tad while I save up for the pistons, I wont have any change from a grand to get them into the country.
I'll just be sticking with the exact set up you had for the time being, I'm not too worried about the current tune because I wont be driving it untill it had been retuned, I think I'll use Gizzmo to dyno it as they have your data still.
I'll be at standard ZC compression of 9.5:1 hopefully the turbo will still move enough air, I will be rev limited to 7300.
I'm pretty confident the motor will handle what ever boost the T25 can poke in it, it'll be fully forged and it's getting the oil pump modified to flow more as we speak. The new rods have oil squirters to help cool the pistons too which should be an advantage.
I'm pretty sure I know why you had boost spike problems, who ever made your exhaust housing pipe flange did a rangi job and the wastegate valve wasn't opening properly, and when it was open, the valve cap was blocking the path of the gas through to the pipe, I've decided I'm going to redo what I've already done and run an internal/external set up with a seperate pipe from the waste gate which will plumb in back further down the line or dump to the ground depending on the situation :wink:
Cheers and good luck with the toymota

[tarmac-]

if your going to spend that much cash, you should forget the turbolink, and just get some 510cc injectors and gizzmo to retune your ecu, or anyone else for that matter.

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by tarmac-

if your going to spend that much cash, you should forget the turbolink, and just get some 510cc injectors and gizzmo to retune your ecu, or anyone else for that matter.

Yeah I know but thats the problem, money, I have to do this in stages if I'm going to do it at all, it's easier to upgrade to 510's and a remapped ECU later, it's not so easy to strip down and forge an engine once I start poking too much boost down it. (ask american_ian :wink
At least I'll have a strong foundation now to work on with lots of scope for a lot of different options further down the track.
I simply cant afford the money to skip straight to a new fuelling set up and at least my intial tune from Nigels fuel map will be simple and relitively cheap in comparision to a full re-map from scratch.
I have his same cc's same fuel pump same fuel pressure setting, same cam profile, same turbo and manifold, same piping, cooler and injectors the only things different will be my compression and the PM7's factory timing which is probably different to the PG7 Nige was running but not by much.

[americ_ian]

Originally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!

it's not so easy to strip down and forge an engine once I start poking too much boost down it. (ask american_ian :wink

piece of cake ow :wink:

[doo0T!doo0T!]

O.k it's been a long time since I've done anything on the crx but now I'm back at work and have money again things should start to heat up again.

I've put the quest for 180wKW on hold for a while and this is what I have planned.
I'm going to sling the a7 engine I have back together as-is with stock rods and pistons and at least get the thing running.

I now have two complete ZC engines to take parts from and I'll be rebuilding one of the blocks with 30-50 thou overbore,
I'll put the endyn roller-waves and H-beam rods into the new engine and I'll have a go at porting another head.
One of the engines has a HM5 head so will be better to work with than the HM3 one I modified for the A7 motor.

I have a anniversary edition P29 ZC inlet manifold which will take a B or H series throttle-body, I'll cut off and keep the flanges and I'll build a custom plenum and runners between them.

Trench-rat has ported out an oil pump for me and limited the oil pressure to 65 psi
After sorting the pistons out I'll be getting a set of high-lift cams made with an appropriate over lap for boost.
The new motor will not be run by the turbo-link and will be a full re-tune of te stock ECU or another aftermarket stand-alone system.

The reason for this change of direction is I am not 100% confident that I'll be able to keep the head on with my high-tensile cap-screw modification.
I dont want to go and order standard bore pistons, and to later have my A7 block shit it'self because i wont be able to find a decent ZC block with standard bores to swap them into.
Plus over boring will increase displacement marginally which is always of benefit.

At least having the car running will be enough to keep me occupied while I build the ultimate boosted ZC on the bench.

Body-wise the cars got a bit planned for it too, I'm going to carbon-skin the roof and boot panel, both for cosmetics and also because the patch I put over the sunroof hole is in different gauge steel and because of expansion in the sun it keeps putting hairline cracks in the paint over the welds.

The carbon vented bonnet is fitted, the side skirts are fitted and the halo projectors are wired in and operating.
The vented guards will need to be fitted properly and a few of the lines changed as they are currently rough as guts.

The N/A gear and Potenza suspension will be heaved out and put in my other civic and a set of height adjustable coil overs are destined for the CRX, either Koni or Bilstein.

I spent a lot of time over xmas removing all possible creature comforts, the dash board is completely hollow inside now, the only thing that remains is the air-blower motor and I have piped air directly to the demister.
Heater is gone, all traces of air-con are gone, all sound proofing and underlay is gone and the centre-panel on the dash and centre air vents have been replaced by a black vinyl covered aluminium panel.
It was amazing how much shit I got out from under there it was a completely heaped big wheelbarrow load of shit.

I've got a new exhaust temp guage, boost guage and a/f ratio guage in stealth black to match what I already have, they'll be mounted in the new panel and there is one aviation style toggle switch to control the demister.

A billet short shifter has found it's way in there too and it feels sweet with- out the rubber bushes, it's nice to feel every litle vibration from the box.

The car is looking pretty tough now I'm pretty pleased with the way the kit all went together and I cant wait to get this motor in and get it out on the road again i really miss driving it.

stay tuned...

[Trench_Rat]

sounds like your getting there man keep it up , how much are the endyn pistons costing you out of curiousity?

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Wont get much change from $700 landed.

Spent yesterday pulling the engine and box out and getting rid of that horrible ALB system, I re-fitted a simple proportioning valve and lines and put it back how it should have been.
There was about 15 -20 metres of brake line through the whole car before and the ALB system would have weighed about 10 - 12 kgs at a guess maybe more by the time you add the full length loom and extra ECU in the boot.

I got my head bolts on Friday so now I just have to assemble the bottom end rotating mass and get it to a balencer ASAP. I'm not going back to Lynn Rogers as he's too damn slow.

[Trench_Rat]

$700 for endyn pistons 8O thats fucking cheap man wish i had of got some of those now , what head bolts have you ordered i may swap my ones out when i put my new cams in

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Props to Auckland Dynamic Balancers in Wairau, they are doing a full re-ciprocating engine balance Thats flywheel, pressure plate, crank, front pulley, pistons and rods for $200. he's got some good gear there too. :thumbsup:

Originally Posted by Trench_Rat

$700 for endyn pistons 8O thats fucking cheap man wish i had of got some of those now , what head bolts have you ordered i may swap my ones out when i put my new cams in

Bad news, you cant, you have a Pm7 block which uses 11mm bolts, I re-tapped a PM6 block which uses 10mm bolts out to 12mm and am using 12.9 grade high tensile cap screws they were still expensive though, 130 odd bucks all up at trade price.

[Trench_Rat]

im sure my head bolts were 12mm ah well im sure ill get over it

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Well here she is, rerally starting to get somewhere now.

This is the assembled and fully balenced short-block with the block guard in place, ended up loctiteing it in place with some industrial anabolic resin used to hold locomotive components together so it's not coming out!
The new lightened flywheel is on it too and shit it's small, i didn't realise how much I'd taken out of it untill I saw it bolted to the crank, i hope i didn't go too far.

I coated the block and my custom front pulley in a heat resistant candy apple blue which looks shit-hot up close as you can still see the aluninium beneath it. It was a last minute desision, I was originally going to go black but I'm stoked with the colour now, I intend to do the gearbox housing the same colour.

This pic shows the massive head bolt conversion i am using, this baby aint going to be blowing a head gasket in a hurry.

This is the reconditioned head with new valves, a re-face and a three-angle valve job.

One more day will see the head on it and cams etc, I'm going to run it with a totally exposed cambelt like the old Lotus's and BDA cosworth engines.

Before it goes in the car i have to build me hybrid gearbox up which might end up being a fair bit of work.
Anyway this has been the 1st real progress in ages so I'm pretty stoked.

[turbozxi]

Looking good. 8)

[BTLF3D]

shit looking good man, can you tell me how you painted the block?

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by BTLF3D

shit looking good man, can you tell me how you painted the block?

ops: My parents were away so i baked it in mums oven
Seriously, I cleaned it down 1st which was pretty easy as it was new and then used jenolite to etch the surface, I left it for about 1/2 and hour before washing it off, I did this because I dont want the paint to peel off later.
This would have been better with a sand blaster but i didn't want to risk getting sand inside oil galleries etc and i didn't want to acid dip it as it would erode the deck surface and bearing cradles.

I then put it in the oven and "cooked it at 60 - 70 deg for about 15 mins to purge out the water and get the block nice and toasty warm for the paint.

The paint is basically a clear emamel with a blue pigment in it and I applied enough coats for a good deep lustre. Because the block was pre-heated it cured the paint as it was being applyied and allowed for a much thicker coat without runs.

After about 1/2 an hour it was completely touch dry so it went back in the oven at 60 odd degrees again for about 1/2 and hour to set and fully cure the enamel.

When it came out it was totally cured and you could't smell the solvent in the paint any more. (unfortunatlly mums oven did however smell like solvent, i took the oven up to max and left it for a while which got rid of that though.)

After it was cured I had to re-expose the aluminium on the mating surfaces around the water and oil pump etc and deck surface and for that I used a flat sheet of glass and wet sand paper.

After all the water and baking the bores needed to be re-honed but thats not exacly a big job and they needed it anyway.

[americ_ian]

nice work, wish i had painted my block now, ahh maybe one day!
may i ask why u want to leave your cambelt covers off? is it going to be in a daily or just a race car??

i left mine off for about 5 months, after the Redlinetec drags, a rock had got caught in the gears and split a hole in the cambelt! 8O

lukily i found it before i did, cambelt was just bearly holding together,
the next day i took the motor out and put it i the civic witha new belt and all :wink:

keep it up!

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Originally Posted by americ_ian

may i ask why u want to leave your cambelt covers off? is it going to be in a daily or just a race car??

i left mine off for about 5 months, after the Redlinetec drags, a rock had got caught in the gears and split a hole in the cambelt! 8O

I reckon it looks shit hot, I used to have my 4AGE running no covers and it looked choice, i never had any problems with stones but maybe i just got lucky, (you do have to replace the belt much more regularly though)
I'm not palnning on using the car much, occasional mere mere meeting or a weekend curcuit meet it's certainly not going to be a daily it'll be an uncomfortable bastard to drive anyway.
I could probably fold up a guard that the belt runs through slots in that bolts onto the oil pump just to stop stones going through the crank gear. Probaly wont worry about it though.

[FREEZN]

looks good man

[doo0T!doo0T!]

Spent Saturday getting the rest of it together....




The cam cover is HPC'd silver, I dont want to ceramic coat the headers yet until I know whether i can get away with the internal wastegate or not.
I only just realised that the SOHC block has one less water out/inlet on the back by the oil filter so the ZC oil/water cooler will not plumb in directly.
I think i can come off the inlet manifold with a T-section joining the throttle body heater line for the auto choke.
I'm going to re-route the old heater lines to cool the turbo.
I'll run oil pressure and oil light senders off the fire wall with a flexible line but the oil temp sender can screw straight into the oil pump housing so I will get a true oil temp reading.
Seems to be working out fine.
I had to invent my own head bolt torque specs so I went with 49ft-lb, standard 10mm 1.25 pitch specs are 49ft-lb, 11mm x 1.5mm is 48ft-lb, so 12mm x 1.75 should in theory be 47ft-lb. I went with 49 for a bit of extra tension due to the turbo. Dont know if my theory is right better look into it befor i start it up.

BTW Honda gave me the wrong parts again, that Sth African guy in there in parts is hopeless.
The code on the waterpump he gave me is P08 what the hell is P08 I've never even heard of it and it doesn't even come close to fitting, I ended up putting a good 2nd hand pump off a ZC on it. The tensioner he gave me was wrong too, different diameter bearing different arm and a spring way to long i hope they'll take it back after all this time.

[Ryan]

looks good, P08 would be from sohc vtec engine i think

[Trench_Rat]

Before it goes in the car i have to build me hybrid gearbox up which might end up being a fair bit of work

hybrid gearboxs are piss easy will only take you a day to strip all the boxes and peice together your hybrid , when you do it i suggest getting some cardboard and laying out enough for all you boxes then when you take it apart you lay everything out in order so when you come to peice the hybrid together its easy to know what came form what and were its meant to go , also make sure you set your clearences right or youlle be pulling the box again in 6 months to replace the synchros. The block looks nice as i wish ide thought of doing something like that.