Or just use solder wick on each pad and it wicks it right up without the risk of lifting pads or anything.
or use a solder sucker (a good one $25-$30) they work well.
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Yep, the realtime auto-tune in BRE sucks is not really any good.
I normally datalog for say 5-10mins of driving, trying to get AFRs in all cells then run the offline auto tune against the target AFRs you want. In BRE you can 'filter' the AFRs so that you only change cells that you know have had x number of samples. That way you ignore any rouge values that might mess up your map.
Do this a few times and your AFRs start looking better and better then you're basically done apart from fine tuning. Then visit the dyno shop to do your power runs, ignition timing, cam timing.
Its a good idea to keep your WB setup at the dyno to compare with the dyno shop's WB as there might be a big difference!
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Basically everything you said there is exactly what I do in crome.
Takes me about 3-4 drives to get each cam perfect using this method.
I do it 'offline' afterwards also, using the auto %age adjustment, but I filter out and smooth my own values if I know something is totally wrong, even crome gets the filtering wrong sometimes.
After that in graph view everything is looking quite smooth,
P.S when trying to hit all cells, use very smooth throttle transistions. Do not "stab" or "jerk" the gas pedal to hit cells otherwise the throttle enrichment will skew your AFR readings too much.
for the last columns 'full throttle' you can "stab" the gas in 3rd or 4th gear from very low rpm (say 1500) all the way to red line