Thread: In Need of stronger mounts, Advice please

Hi everyone, well my ATS metal diff is finally kicking the crap out of my stock mounts.
My car is a daily and occasional track car (should be the other way around I know)

So anyway the back mount needs to be beefed up, as well as the others really.

What is best
Aftermarket Hasport for $$$
Get them filled (where and how much)
Fill them my self with sikaflex 291

I want some info on what works best, how much vibration is felt etc.

Turning at intersections makes the whole engine and car buck as the diff locks and unlocks and the engine just moves WAY too much.

I have tried filling the front support mounts ages ago with sikaflex 291 but I didn't feel it was very strong at all and I can see the mounts still moving around the solid sikaflex.

Im leaning towards getting em solid filled, but where and how much? Cheers

I'd get Innovate / Hasport mounts if you can and be done with it. I bought new Innovate mounts a few years ago via someone advertising on Honda-Tech and got them here for about $340. They have a lifetime warranty, though buying offshore might make that a little more difficult (but I doubt you'd need to call on it). Otherwise I think 41 and AAP can do them. I think most guys run Innovate/Hasport in Honda Cup, as an example, and I've never seen any issues.
I've had rear mounts filled by Autolign filled with their red urethane on two DC2's in the past and they both cracked so I wouldn't get old mounts re-done/filled there. Maybe new mounts and fill the gaps with sikaflex but then might as well just get Innovate/Hasport.

So I'd say Innovate/Hasport mounts would be best (I'd get the firmer end but they are all 'firm' so wouldn't worry too much about it in case cheaper 65's come up). You won't regret getting these at least. Shouldn't need to run the torque mounts then either.

Go aftermarket! Best thing you can ever do and you'll LOVE it.

I know you're a good driver that pushes hard and trust me an aftermarket set will be your best option.

I run innovatives with a 85a insert which I thought might be far too stiff for daily driving but it wasn't bad at all - yes you get a tiny bit more noise and a bit of a vibration at idle but it really isn't that bad at all.

I've been through it all including sikaflex a couple of times which was hopeless - its ok for a piss cheap DIY on the street for +15 year old OEM mounts.

I've then been through a couple of sets of Autolign nolathane mounts. The first lot i had slotted because I was paranoid that vibrations would be an issue on a road car - they tore in no time. So I went to full nolthane with no gaps and was told I wouldn't have any problem but like Blizard they weren't very good and then tore again as well. The EK cambelt side mount which is normally filled with oil was drained and had some special mods to become urethane actually completely tore in half.

Thats when I bit the bullet and went to Innovative. Holy shit! I should have done that ALONG time ago (would have saved me alot of money!). The difference in the response and feel of the car was amazing and I couldn't believe that it actually felt alot better in the corners (I likewise run a plate diff which I guess puts a bit of pressure on the factory mounts). Its been an awesome mod and it hasn't let me down.

The other bonus ofcourse is that you can ditch the lower mounts and brackets (I wouldn't dare do that with the nolathane inserts), which will save you quite alot of weight in the front end which is a nice bonus.

So yeah they're awesome mounts and I cant speak any highly of them! Great having the life time warranty too .

I looked at Hasport at the time but they were quite a bit more expensive so I went with Innovative. You'll be fine with any of the main brands IMO.

So yeah, dont even waste your time or money with Sikaflex or urethane ones IMO.

Get the stock ones filled with Urethane by Plus Plastics in East Tamaki, like $50 a mount.
Even better, get them to make a billet rod which you can press into the stock mount.

First one cracked within a month and the second lot cracked and slowly fell to bits over 6 to 8 months untill it was unsafe and wouldn't have passed a WOF. This was as a daily driver that was used 2 to 3 weekends a month hard in club racing - gymkhana, autocross, track day, drag racing etc etc. I am quite tough on hardware but I still expected it to last...

It wasnt just the bonus in strength going to proper aftermarket mounts it was also just how awesomely they preformed!! The improvement in the feel and response is simply insane. I really did not expect a gain anywhere near as close as I got from them.

/end fan boy post.

ive just installed billet innovative 75a's in my dc2....and also beefed up the lower control arms,now its stiff as a viagra pill on viagra...

totally on the innovative bus here too, had them in my DB8 and loved the "feel" and response. A bit of vibration was totally worth it for the hillclimbs/track stuff I wanted to do. I had opted for the 60A and they were perfect for my application. Super strong too I was surprised after seeing my old wreck.

Cheers for the reply, yeh I always hear people say "yeh fill em its sweet az au" but its not sweet az for a car with a ATS metal diff that gets track raced.

Get the stock ones filled with Urethane by Plus Plastics in East Tamaki, like $50 a mount.
Even better, get them to make a billet rod which you can press into the stock mount.

Do these last the distance though? If so i'd be interested in getting the rear mount filled.

Im thinking maybe I could get away with just an uprated rear mount from hasport with the second strongest material U88A extreme , Im sure most of the back and forth movement is due to the rear mount. I already have a DC2 cambet mount which aren't too bad.

Hasport does them for $129US plus postage. Otherwise i need to pay $309 US for innovative mount kit i'd prob go for an 85A kit from them.

What do you guys think? I really think making the rear mount quite strong will solve a lot of the issues here. Thats why I was leaning towards getting it filled, but if its just going to break then thats useless.

And if I just get a rear mount from hasport then thats $129 US plus postage which is a lot more than $50NZ

hmmm decisions, if the filling doesn't break as tyson has experienced then good

Just uprating this one would do the trick i reckon

Thanks for the replies guys. yeh at around $180-$200 NZ landed for one rear mount just to see if my theory of making the car easier to drive out of right hand intersections is a price to pay. (for some reason it binds up REALLY hard on slow 1st 2nd gear right turns more than left) I have asked others and their ATS metal diff does this also. Not sure if its the diff design or how the axels in hondas are setup with the rigid hald shaft on one side?

However I am hearing good things about aftermarket.

I should do more research but anyone got an idea of nzhonda pricing AAP etc?

Also does anyone agree that making the back mount really strong will cure 90% of the problem. I mean the other mounts ones hang the engine but the back mount surely stops motion in that direction.

Perhaps i'll experiment with the back mount filling my self then if that fails i'll go full aftermarket.

P.S that resin is like $117!!!

^^ You'll love them.

I'm keen on that kit also, how much did you get them for if u don't mind?

It would be keen on seeing if innovate does just the rear mount instead of a kit of all 3

Innovative mate, wouldn't even bother with filled mounts if its raced hard.

That seems to be the general consensus, apart from barry who races VERY hard with much more torque than me and recommends filled :/

Innovative sell their mounts seperately .

I put my mate who made some custom mounts onto Bazda's reccomendation and the mounts come out looking pretty good. They looked to be stiffer then the Autolign ones and are over half the price (he was quoted $120 at autolign which is a rip for what they are...).

The idea of just getting a top quality rear mount will work and it will be better then what you're currently running. However I still think you're far better off with the other two mounts as well. You're right that the rear mount will stop most of the back and fourth motion but you have to remember there is alot of side to side twisting pressure put on the engine mounts in the corners - particularly on a race circuit, with semi slicks and a crazy aggressive LSD!!

My LSD clicked and binded up turning both directions so thats interesting the issues you have with the ATS. You can build plate diffs to alsorts of specs though. I got mine built as tight as I could and its pretty bloody tight and will click on any corner up to 50kph if you dont have your foot up it! I thought mine was crazy untill I drove the car I did targa in this year which had an extremely tight Cusco which would just ridiculous - most of the time you had to do a 3 point turn when trying to turn 90* at a T intersection or just stomp the gass to get some wheel spin so it would turn.

Those diffs are designed to lock up hard so put quite alot of pressure on the axles, drive line and mounts.

Like I said its a great mod in more ways then one and its something you wont regret - I rate it up there with the diff i've got. Excellent performance gains and I think you can get a Innovative kit for just over $400 these days so I rate it as awesome value for money for the gains you get .

most of the time you had to do a 3 point turn when trying to turn 90* at a T intersection or just stomp the gass to get some wheel spin so it would turn.

This is exactly what mine is like, plant boot and you hear the wheels skidding. Left hand binds up, but right hand binds up BAD. Unless its hot like a track day then it goes quiet. Which makes me wonder how effective the diff is after a few laps.

Hmm ok maybe i'll go the $400 option, but might try the $50 option first

You could always buy the innovative read first and then buy the other 2 later (would work out more expensive in the long run ofcourse).

oh and Plus Plastic wont burn out the rubber any more (they kept getting in trouble from the council) so you have to take some measurements as to where the mounting pin is and then burn it out yourself .

Just grab a full set of Innovative if you can Sam, I've had mine for years (part of a sponsorship deal from FBI all those years ago) and apart from being dirty cos I'm too lazy to clean the engine bay are as good as the first day they were installed.

You won't regret it mate.

Although you will probably go with an aftermarket mount. These are what is in my car. Old rubber taken out, insert welded in with urethane and aluminum pin. Been there since day one of its build, about 2002 and still look brand new. Although it only has an ITR LSD and isn't road registered.

I filled all 4 mounts on the EF9 and it was the solid mounted exhaust system that caused the most vibration than the mounts.

Cheers for the pics! Yeh I emailed innovate on the rear mount.
Perhaps i'll try for a rear one, and then fill the two side ones my self and see how that does me for now. Already spending $$$ on the car at the mo, so not keen on 400+ just cause i don't like it shaking as much