Keen on your old inserts![]()
Ek9. I would rather sort it with Mac first. Waiting on Mac's response.
I wonder how much the response and shift feel is going to suffer with the 60As. The shift action really is outstanding atm. Just need to drive with ear plugs and not play cds![]()
I would've thought that the bushings in the mounts would be the same dimensions across the range.
When designing custom mounts for a small company surely it'd make sense to keep components the same - specially when the design envelope is quite big.
Either way, Mac is getting some from Innovative.
I think mine has 95A in it too. Every single thing shakes! haha its like holding a lawnmower, but i suppose its the price you pay lol
Haha, thought so, really for FULL 500HP plus drag cars eh!
I got the 85A on order, I assume the back mount not toooo bad to do, if you roate the engine a little, few tricks here and there![]()
Good timing on this thread as I noticed my rear mount looks to be cracked/perished.
I thought it would need replacing but did not know it would have any performance or enjoyment value.
Can anything get damaged if you don't replace them? (yes I do track her if that makes a difference)
Can someone post a link to the Innovative mounts for a DC2R as I find the descriptions confusion.
Thanks
Stretch.
1993 dc2 integra 450kw@wheels
10.08@146.57mph
I had 62A (I think?) HASports in my EK and they were about the limit I'd put up with in a daily. Still made everything vibrate (down to the buttons on my headunit) but smoothed out as revs rose. If I was building a daily driver/weekend thrasher I'd probably go with them again.
Thanks to: Makita, Repco, The Warehouse.
I think I'm getting used to the 95A...have to use it while the other inserts are on the way. Tyson's right, they're pretty awesome for driving feel.
Definitely have to do more bolt checks though!
Hahah oops, cause my car is a daily mostly and some track. Looks like im in for a shock.i tryed a set of 85A mounts in mine and i only lasted about a 3 days with them then put the standard mounts back in. it was terrible to drive, i guess i'm showing my age but i don't know how anybody could put up with them for a road car. lol
Most people here recommened them tho, I already have a ATS metal diff and a puk clutch so its hardly a joy to drive
Last edited by Coupe-R; 8th March 2012 at 01:43 PM.
x2 on the bolt check thing! always checking mine haha.
Low revs can hardly see out the flipping rear view mirror lol, once it smooths out though its mint.
Mounts arrived, not fitted yet but dam the urethane is as hard as ROCK!
not sure where to two extra bolts and washers go that came with the kit, anyone? which mounts requre this? Is it the gearbox one?
my kit needed longer bolts into the gearbox cause the mount was thicker
-84 CRX, ZC DOHC
-89 Accord B20A
-92 EG hatch
My kit came with two bolts, i'll compare the mounts and see whats up
The rear mount at the front with just one bolt needs a longer one. And the single bolt on the gearbox. It makes sense when you take the old mounts off, push the bolts through the mount holes while in your hand and see how much thread comes through. Then do the same with the new aluminium mounts and you'll see the worst cases where longer bolts are needed.
Yep that was the plan, also I see the bots are different sizes, cheers for the heads up blizard![]()
Ok just fitted the rear mount to see what it does to driveability, noise and vibration.i tryed a set of 85A mounts in mine and i only lasted about a 3 days with them then put the standard mounts back in. it was terrible to drive, i guess i'm showing my age but i don't know how anybody could put up with them for a road car. lol
Results: The vibration isn't bad at all at idle, easily bearable. However the noise is increased GREATLY, vibration is increased also but not as much as the noise level increased inside the cabin.
Makes my puk clutch engage really well, no shaking really. (no shaking of exhaust)
however ATS diff still binds up the engine and car quite a bit. I assume the side lateral mounts once upgraded will fix this.
Man its tight with that back mount when motor and headers in place, managed to do it without removing anything except the heater bracket off firewall.
Will drive with just backmount 85A at the mo, then feel the difference next week when i change other two
Last edited by Coupe-R; 16th March 2012 at 10:47 AM.
Ok just fitted the other two mounts, cambelt and gearbox. Well vibration and noise is up A LOT compared with just the back! Basically if you are fitting these 85A into a daily/street I feel its too harsh. I'll live with it cause i daily this car a small distance and it has no stereo, plate diff and puk clutch anyway. However id recommend just filled mounts for a street car and maybe bit of track 75A perhaps? Even just getting a really strong back mount helped A LOT with a puk clutch to stop engine movement
Anyways, the car drives MUCH better, diff is much easier to manage in slow turns. But cabin noise is IMMENSE, its like i just took all the mufflers out of the exhaust and running a straight pipe, thats how much louder it is in the cabin! Shaking dash and air vents etc. But if you have no dash then fine
Rear view mirror constant shake at 3000-3200rpm blur! idle is fine, quite smooth really.
For a race car though i'd HIGHLY recommend them or at least getting the mounts filled with urethane. Didn't realise the noise level inside would be this much, just heard people complaining of vibration.
Oh well it FEELS like you are piloting something serious now hahah![]()
Thanks for the followup post
The fact that it quietens down the diff has perked up my ears![]()
DA's FTW!
14.49 @ 94mph // 46.9s/1:58 @ Taupo // 1:23s @ Manfield
It doesn't make it quieter, it makes it easier to drive out of intersections though.
Believe me NOTHING is quieter after this mod, eveything is VERY VERY VERY loud, like you can't hear each other talking loud!!!!
Also i think something is up with the charging circuit in the car now, perhaps rattled a plug, ground, fuse loose. Or my alternator regulator is crapping out. Got fluctuating voltage and higher than normal voltage. Could be caused by bad connection tho, i'll check it out tonight