Thread: Best stock track engine

If you cant afford B18cr just leave the B16a and give it death, replace/rebuild when it gets smokey.

Just look at the hondacup, was a EF9 with B16a, B16b Cams and bolt ons and was very competitive

Originally Posted by WingIt

If you cant afford B18cr just leave the B16a and give it death, replace/rebuild when it gets smokey.

Just look at the hondacup, was a EF9 with B16a, B16b Cams and bolt ons and was very competitive

Well Said - I humbly agree

Originally Posted by teck

i wouldnt mind doing cams actually. by just doing cams from a b16b would i have to tune?

For optimal results you should tune after your performance mods.
PM BMGJET for tuning/ecu chipping.

Suspension, Tyres and a Gearbox with decent ratios and an LSD will help more

Originally Posted by teck

im definatly getting suspension and tyre upgrades already but if i put the b16b cams in i also should do the springs and retainers right. do it once do it right. also i have a lsd gearbox. you dont think that would be fine??

there is a guy on here cleaning up the ClubSport events in Auckland with almost the identical list of stuff bud -

your LSD gearbox will be fine for the power it's putting out, but it would be good to get a new gearset/final drive

If your puting b16b cams in id recommend type r intake also...

Do a quick search mate, everything you asking has been covered 1000 times, its not new stuff. There is heaps of info on nzh just waiting to be found.

Originally Posted by N10CIV

If your puting b16b cams in id recommend type r intake also...

I swore by this too but its actually debateable.

I'm going to have to do some dyno time to see what happens.

B16A is awesome especially on a dollar:performance ratio. If it dies - no problem. Spend another $300 and get another used one.

The best area to spend money on is gear ratios. All of the best bolt on power adders + tune is still nothing on gear ratios and gear ratios would probably be cheaper .

You can easily have a stock B16A with more torque then a B18CR with all the best bolt on parts and tune all from gear ratios .

^ Tend to agree, if you have an itr/ctr box with shorter final drive even then you're going to be fricken quick

Originally Posted by SiRge

^ Tend to agree, if you have an itr/ctr box with shorter final drive even then you're going to be fricken quick

lol.

By close ratio I wasn't refering to Type R ones. They're pretty mediocre even with a 4.9 final drive. Trust me the difference on paper and in real life is night and day.

Just read its a DA6 so it wont be the cheapest exercise in the world because first you'll have to track down a YS1 gearbox as gearsets aren't common (read: expensive) in the smaller Y1/J1/S1 boxes.

^ There are cable to hydro conversion parts... (read: innovative or similar)

But jokes aside, a shorter final drive is cheapish with still a bit of gains versus a fully built short ratio gbox you have to admit which costs a *tiiiny* bit more

Originally Posted by SiRge

^ There are cable to hydro conversion parts... (read: innovative or similar)

But jokes aside, a shorter final drive is cheapish with still a bit of gains versus a fully built short ratio gbox you have to admit which costs a *tiiiny* bit more

You're right actually. The price difference between the cheaper 3rd 4th 5th kits compared to a final drive crown wheel and pinion kit isn't THAT huge. In fact some might say you're stupid not to!! .

Custom and complete gearkits are very expensive though.

It really comes down to what you want to do with the car. If you're serious about the track then a close ratio kit is the best option (even taking into consideration cost). However if its used on the street a final drive option might be better as aftermarket gearkits whine a tiny bit and depending on which ratios you choose can make the rpm quite high when cruising at 100kph.

Originally Posted by tysonzane

The best area to spend money on is gear ratios. All of the best bolt on power adders + tune is still nothing on gear ratios and gear ratios would probably be cheaper .

You can easily have a stock B16A with more torque then a B18CR with all the best bolt on parts and tune all from gear ratios .

Very true. I took Craig's B16A CRX for a drive and was hugely impressed! The torque was simply awesome. Much better money spent to gain all the torque of a larger engine, while retaining stock reliability of the motor.

^^^50% more torque then factory that box! Not to mention the big increase in hp you get after each shift as it 'lands' higher up the rpm band.

More torque then an H22A 'big block' haha.

Just cause its a DA6 doesn't mean it needs to run a YS1? It could run any cable box....
Shiftyjono or myself can chip and tune also if its closer to home for ya?

Cam gears, cams, intake, headers, exhaust, chip and tune + good handling and a good driver will give results