Joule's K20 EK9 build - Update 14/04/13 - Wiring time

[colgateam]

Good work getting the engine out today! Only a couple of weeks late XD

[Joule]

Looks great man, after a year of owning my old EK3 I did the same swap with the B18c...its totaly a different car when its done

It definitely will be with all the other changes I'm doing to it too Fingers crossed all goes well.

Jono was telling about this at work. Looks impressive, lots of attention to detail. Will keep checking for fresh pics.

I try

Good work getting the engine out today! Only a couple of weeks late XD

Bah, if only mid trimester holidays were 3-4 weeks long, I would have completed it already

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Added at 10:24 AM, Previous post was at 08:49 AM
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Question: I want a new gauge cluster, EK9 ones look nice. I'm planning on swapping my old ECU for the Integra's (and the engine loom too), they are both OBD2, so I'm assuming my cluster (or an EK9's of the same OBD) would place nice?

Edit: I could use the Integra's cluster if that fits?
Double edit: Had a read of this thread. I don't like how the Integra cluster ends up sitting. But I wouldn't need to rewire the cluster plugs if I did go with the Integra cluster tho... I will have to look into making it fit better.

I would still prefer a EK9 cluster tho - they are sexy

[DURTYEF3]

Engine looks clean!.Kudo's on the nice layout of your build thread too, nice and easy to read

[Joule]

Engine looks clean!.Kudo's on the nice layout of your build thread too, nice and easy to read

Cheers. Yeah will eventually get around to adding a LOC once the thread gets a bit bigger, will be a bit hard to for the first couple of posts tho...

[Jay N]

Nice work bro, you've motivated me to pull my motor out and paint it. Looks worth the effort, good shit.

[Joule]

Or you could just go with electroluminescent guage faces.

Awesome, didn't know they existed.

Doesn't look like its going to work with my original EK cluster tho which would have been awesome (as mine goes to 220kph). It will work with the DC2 cluster tho.

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Added at 10:21 PM, Previous post was at 09:16 PM
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Thought I would whack a todo list up:

What's left to do (semi-chronologically ordered):

• Need to clean engine bay
• Decide on (+ get) gauge cluster
• Sort out wiring
• Finish reassembling engine
• Work out the correct timings so I can put the cambelt on (head has been shaved)
• Remind/plead with b16amadness to send me the rear engine bracket I need *Edit: Being sent today (Wed 6/5)
• Order a twin-loop muffler
• Install the engine!
• Get exhaust made up
• Basic tune
• Cert

[Brent]

I would like to keep some power in the low / midrange as I don't want a repeat of my d ninja going up my hill...
But in saying that, a 2.5" may suit upgrades done to the engine later down the track better?

Going from 2.25" to 2.5" is not going to make you notice a decrease of midrange. But 2.5" is heaps better even on a stock motor. My itr with just a 2.5" exhaust and an intake made 130kw at the wheels. My old dc2 non r had a 2.25 exhaust and an intake and on the same dyno as my itr only made 112kw.

2.5" exhasut for sure

[Hayce]

Have you asked Honda how much the ek9 cluster is?

[Joule]

Looks like 2.5" is the clear winner.
I can't wait to do some work on my car tomorrow - need a break from uni work!

Also a mate said that the cleaner I used was a mixture of "gunwash and multi-purpose thinners" apparently. Interesting mix...

Tomorrow I plan to give the engine bay a clean and tidy.. Here's what it looks like at the moment:


And if I get time I will start wiring in the P72 ECU...
Edit: That's if I can remember where I put it!

[Joule]

So I worked on my car today. Didn't get as near as much done as I was hoping, but I still made progress...

I started cleaning the dirt out of the engine bay (and there certainly was no shortage of it!) then sunskreens and another friend came around. Sunskreens and I dismantled my car further, adding further crap to my already car part riddled barn...
Here it is after disassembly (notice the drivers side shows some of the original colour..)


Having reached the desired level of car disassembly, we moved onto other things to do. Removing the dash was another thing on my list, so we attempted that..., then shortly gave up (some things can be quite hard to take apart if you have never taken them apart before... unless you rip and tear of course ).

The next thing on my list was to find the integra loom and ecu (which was a mission, as someone had been reorganizing my mess), and figure out how I was going to make it all work.
I want to use the integra ecu and engine loom, but keep everything else (interior loom, interior fuse box, the wiring for the lights, etc) from the ek.
I know I could do it, but I've decided its too big of a task for me to do at the moment with the amount of spare time I have. I remember seeing a website of a nz company that splices two looms together you supply, for $200. But annoyingly I didn't bookmark it and I can't remember the name of the company!


The last thing we got done today was improving and then installing the shift linkage out of the wreck. I should have taken some pictures, but the previous owner did a very poor job of installing his short shift kit. So a lot of time was spent bending metal into the correct position. But I did manage to get it near on perfect in the end
Here it is installed (shift boot has to be pushed down quite a bit):



Hopefully not much longer till its done. The last engine bracket I need arrived yesterday - a big thanks to b16amadness who's giving it to me for free! (I had to insist that I at least pay for the courier). Now the only last essentials needed are the new water pump bolts as I accidentally over-torqued mine..

[Joule]

I was (and am) still unable to locate the company that does the loom rewiring, and no one has replied since my last post, so I'm probably just going to have to do it myself.
So I took a couple of pics of my two ecu's and went back up to the house to do some research, find pinouts etc... The Integra's ECU is a 37820-P72-013 which was sweet, but the EK's was 37820-P2K-V01 which I can't find any info on.



The two sockets it has look a lot like the two outer ones on an OBD1 ecu...

You can tell the obd by simply looking at it.

2B
2A
1
0

FROM top to bottom as pictured

So I don't know what's going on here, my Civic is a 97 NZ new LXi, perhaps its because its NZ new...?

[Gudgen]

oh dear. not sure if this is a good thing.

[DeltaSlaya]

Yea my DC1 had an ECU similar to that:


It was a fuel injected SOHC ZC engine.

I ended up replacing my interior loom with a DC2 one, but you could probably just repin the plugs if you look up and compare a few pinout diagrams.

[Joule]

Have you found any pin-out diagrams that are correct tho?
My problem is it seems to be such a unique ECU I'm yet to find any pin out diagrams for it...

if you done a k-series swap none of this would apply.

This is true, but I never planned on doing a K series swap...

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Added at 07:52 PM, Previous post was at 07:34 PM
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Here are the options I have come up with:

• 1. Get really lucky and find the pin outs, or trace each wire to find out what each pin is. This will take a while but I can post my findings up so future people aren't so fucked. Once I know the pin-outs I can proceed with my original plan of only rewiring the engine loom, and just changing ECU plugs to fit and match the P72's socket/s. (Assuming that may even work as there's still a whole plug of pins less than standard...).
• 2. Get another loom from an EK that isn't queer and replace my engine loom with that - should plug right into my new ecu with a few minor adjustments to the pin locations.
• 3. Do any of the above, but pay a auto-electrician my left nut to do it, but at least it gets done quickly so I can finally complete my swap.
• 4. Ask Ali if his cousin could also make me a new loom..

I will try and take my ECU into Honda some time this week and see if they could get me the pin-out information for it. And I will inquire with some auto electricians as to how much getting them to do it will dent my bank.

[Joule]

mani colour is a from me too, it is totally upto you what colour you go bro remember, just hassling ya like i do anyone else who has red callipers

Dark silver it is - provided I can get some more that is as I'm all out


I want to go all out on my engine bay wiring, I stumbled across this thread on de-looming the engine bay and I might also relocate my battery to my boot thanks to this thread. But I also want to pretty up the loom itself like the chase bays ones.

I'm trying to decide on mesh cover:

or this nice Raychem stuff:

I would also love to get one of these multi-pin plugs too and do the same:


It would be sweet if anyone could tell me / help me find where I can acquire this stuff from.

[Logger]

You can buy the Braided sleeving stuff in NZ, if you're keen PM me.

[Hayce]

All these 'red brakes = brembo fake' comments pffft Wilwood and AP Racing are both black, not the same? OEM isn't black either au...

The raychem style harness's are close to 2k shipped, look fantasitc but thats some serious coing for a loom.

I made my loom with the expandable sleeving stuff, its good stuff and there's not much to it, just takes a lot of time.

[Gudgen]

i butchered my loom with a tuck using the expandable sleeving too. came by hayces post on quantities and sizes far too late.

i recommend doing it out of the car.

search: pulling pins!

[Joule]

Update: I may have found a distributor of Raychem heat shrink in NZ, AND they are in Lower Hutt might give them a call tomorrow and find out.

You can buy the Braided sleeving stuff in NZ, if you're keen PM me.

Might go check out the above first. Will let you know if I'm still keen.

All these 'red brakes = brembo fake' comments pffft Wilwood and AP Racing are both black, not the same? OEM isn't black either au...

The raychem style harness's are close to 2k shipped, look fantasitc but thats some serious coing for a loom.

I made my loom with the expandable sleeving stuff, its good stuff and there's not much to it, just takes a lot of time.

Yep, stuff spending that much. Cheers for the comments

i butchered my loom with a tuck using the expandable sleeving too. came by hayces post on quantities and sizes far too late.

i recommend doing it out of the car.

search: pulling pins!

Yeah, engine still isn't in yet, and won't be for a while. I shall have a look through Lances thread for the sizes, and double check on pulling pins (I think a medium sized safety pin is all that's needed?).
Knowing sizes will bee good to know regardless of what cover I decide to go for

[Horny_Devil]

Update: I may have found a distributor of Raychem heat shrink in NZ, AND they are in Lower Hutt might give them a call tomorrow and find out.

Let me know how you get on with that

[Joule]

Small update
I little bit got done today. My father had taken the good socket set to work, and left the crappy set behind - which didn't last long...
So having broken what little I had, I got my neighbor Mike to come over with his sets and give me a hand.

First thing we did was take the left RTA off, then we took the discs off that and found out why it was sitting with such a bad camber - turns out a big bolt was loose and had caused the hole to become elongated. (Will get some pics tomorrow).
So as planned we took the disc assembly off the stuffed RTA and put it on my original left RTA and it was sweet!

Next Mike took my dash out so I can get at the rest of the interior loom when I need to. While he was doing that I followed his advice and used diesel to clean out my engine bay - I'm stoked with the results...
Engine bay before-ish (this is the earliest full shot of it, but I had started to clean the left side):


During:


And after :


I let Mike go home and watch South Park after he had removed my dash and we had stood around for a bit scratching our heads over the loom issue. Once he did I started tidying up the barn and noticed my cluster sitting in the corner and decided what the heck, it might as well look good while I'm waiting on an EK9 one. So I pulled it apart and sprayed it silver, which was very easy and quick to do and I'm pretty happy with the result.
EK3 Cluster before:


After (pic doesn't do it full justice):



Other updates:
More parts arrived yesterday, ~$500 of various seals, some more heat wrap, the replacement water pump bolts, exhaust manifold nuts, password JDM magnetic oil drain bolts, and an oil dipstick. Thanks Adam.
And I forgot to mention that the final bracket I needed arrived a while back - a big thank you to b16amadness for sending it to me!


So I now have all the parts I need, and the only thing left to do is sort out my wiring issues. Then everything can be assembled and I can have vtax!!

[kuji275]

hey man the bay looks great. you say u used deisel? ill be looking to do the same in mine when i get my car. keep up the good work on the progress cant wait to see the end result.

[Joule]

hey man the bay looks great. you say u used deisel? ill be looking to do the same in mine when i get my car. keep up the good work on the progress cant wait to see the end result.

Cheers bro. Yep just diesel and a rag, didn't need much at all and it cut through the crap significantly faster than just soapy water. It does however leave a thin film of oil behind. And lol I can't wait to see the end result either!

[VT]

thin layer of oil makes it waterproof

[IVTECU]

Damn that Cluster came up tops might have to give it a crack on mine