i can also get some pistons made for zc turbo :wink:Originally Posted by Trench_Rat
i can also get some pistons made for zc turbo :wink:Originally Posted by Trench_Rat
yeah im sure the d series sleeves are the same as b series, some stock b series sleeves can handle fordged pistons up to 600whp
but i wuldnt recomment it!
hey mike! good to see your progress ive been wondering how things are going! interesting to know about the condition of my motor, guess i got lucky in a sense - however id like to think that the care taken by myself over the years owning it helped its conditionshe got full flush and new mobil1 oil and new oil filter every 5000kms from 1997 till 2001, then when to turbo, was on GTX magnatec every 7000kms and new filter and flush religiously after that till the day she was smashed.
im sure that must have helpedi read a story about a mazda that had done 750,000kms and still running due to owner's single tip - CHANGE THE FLUIDS! decided to try it myself u see.
about the FPR thing, not sure if you have solved it, but on the stock fuel pump we had to wind the malpassi up to max to get the fuel flow, but this was stressing out the injectors toward the end, then when we upped the fuel pump to the bosch one, we took pressures down again and left it as is. we tuned the turbolink around the rising fuel pressure and all in all it worked ok - i dont think you'd have much trouble if you did the same. what HP are you aiming for? with forgies id guess youd want to aim around 300+ hp? im not sure if just extra injectors will cut it - if you stick to the turbolink id get 4 extra injectors and mount them individually into the plenum chamber one per runner, so yeah 8 injectors, 4 standard and 4 extra. thats what i was planning. im sure you'll have other plans tho
remember i still have that other mint browntop with 106,000kms on it sitting in my garage so if you ever want that....
take it easy mate good luck- damn i missmy car :/
Hey Nige,
Yeah I guess the condition of the engine was a statement to your good maintainence habits!
For now I'll be running stock pistons and sleeves with h-beam rods (just for piece of mind) but I'm aiming for the same hp as you were getting out of your motor to start with and running the same set up as you.
Later on I'll go to four big injectors like 390cc or somthing and have my stock ecu reprogrammed for boost. I found out I got lucky and my ECU is an external EPROM and is programmable.
At the same time I might step up to a t28 but I'm concentrating on getting it running exactly as you had it first.
It's taken way longer than I anticipated but I want it to last so I'm spending time getting the new motor ship-shape before i go putting all the turbo etc on it.
Where was your car originally tuned? was it at Torque? or quest 4? i want to go back to the same place so they have your data on file still so hopefully it was torque.
I'll keep you posted on the project, cheers for stoppin by![]()
original tune was quest4 'on road' rangi style, then properly done at torque performance to about 150kw, then gizzmo to 170kw, thoroughly recommend gizzmo for the service i got and level of expertise
robin is good too being a somewhat link specialist however being inundated with work means not much time available for you personally. just my own experience.
both places will have me on file under my plate name i assume.
id anticipate 185+wkw out of that turbo if youre not decompressed, and still sitting on 13-14psi - hope u see those figures. with some sticky shoes probably high 12s passes down the quarter. and thats before you start getting serious
want some toyo semi slicks on mugen race rims, let me know. used them once for drags, still great cond and tread. happy for u to have them if you want.
youre gonna love this new beast man massage your cheeks every night to prevent cramps in your face from grinning all day![]()
Sadly it will be decompressed but not with a spacer gasket, it will be different pistons instead. i calculated 8.25:1 compression with the compression computer.Originally Posted by lofreq
I will be running 13-14 psi though, well thats what I'm aiming for.
If I can get mid to high 13's then I'd feel I've succeeded in at least this stage anyway. Like you, I want this thing to stay together for at least 50 - 100,000 k's.
You did say have them right? Or do you mean borrow them for a run down the strip? In either case I'd be stoked and will definately take you up on that because my tires are alright but proably a bit hard compound for stripwork.Originally Posted by lofreq
cheers.
with that sorta boost you should be cracking 12's with slicks. i did a 13.7 on 175's 5psi on a b16a 8O
∟ 33
Well it's been a long period of no updates as I sort of put things on hold for a wee while and went to the south island for a mental health break!
I ordered these yesterday....
So things are back on track again, the ARP bolts go in from the top (these are Bseries ones pictured with bolts from the bottom) which might make re-assembly a bit of a mission. (somthing to do with clearances on the d-series block)
I'm off to Honda this afternoon or tommorrow to get stem seals, a timing belt, flywheel bolts and maybe a waterpump. (depending of what those robbers are going to charge)
I lightened the living shit out of my flywheel and have the crank, balencer, flywheel and pressure plate ready to go to Lyn Rogers automotive for a balance, just waiting on the bolts for the complete assembly.
I still need to source a block guard so if anyone has one or knows where i can find one fast let me know.
nice mine shuld be here like tomorrow
Heres the lightened flywheel and ACT clutch kit, I havn't put it on an accurate scale yet so It'll be interesting to see how much weight i got out of it.
I got this today aswell from Aable Subaru in Penrose.....
It's a three port boost solenoid and will allow me to use the Turbolink to regulate boost control through the rev range, i.e low boost at low revs, high boost at high revs where detonation is less likely.
Turns out the guy at Aable parts is tuboing an EG SIR at the moment and gave it to me for $20. Nice.
Honda on the other hand were a bit steeper,
this is what $340 worth of bits looks like.
stem seals, water pump, belt and tensioner.
Ahh well, at least it's genuine OEM bits that i can rely on.
Tommorrows trick is going to be lathing the crank pulley back so it only has the pulley for the alternator, no point in spinning extra mass if you dont need to.
I've ditched my air con and power steering already, incidently the steering is so much better now, no more floating around, just firm and tight as hell. I put in a d13b ef civic rack I got for $23 from pick a part, it's pretty quick too, about 3.3 turns lock to lock.
make sure that pulley gets balanced before it goes back on!
Yeah cheers, it'll get balenced with the pully,crank, flywheel and pressure plate all bolted together as they technically are one spinning mass.Originally Posted by chuckles2
I like the idea of the 3 port boost solenoid :thumbsup:
172wkw @ 10psi CD5 daily
EF7 b16a
Picked up some flywheel bolts from strongs thismorning, thankyou Chris.
heres the newly lightened pulley.
That completes the bottom end work for me, now its off to Lyn Rogers this afternoon.
Damn it! Customs busted me for my rods, I had to go to the customs building in town and pay the GST.
Next time I'll have to remember to tell them to export in an un-marked bag with no company names on it. :wink:
They'll be delivered tomorrow so i gues I'll be assembling the short block this weekend.
edit: or maybe not, the formula toyota engines are taking up all the engine builders time and staff.
Try KMS Engine Development in the States, one of a few companies I've found that make stuff for the ZC stillOriginally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!
http://www.honda-performance.com
You should try get a TODA flywheel, or are they worth mint?
89 Civic Si
Work in Progress
Yeah I've talked to John at KMS, seems like a good guy, they wanted $59.99 + $28 Us shipping.Originally Posted by nzcivicracer
Works out to $114.39 before import GST.
I was hoping I'd find one locally so I wouldn't have to wait but nothings turned up so I might as well put an order through.
I looked at custom flywheels too, ACT have started doing them for a reasonable price but mine cost me nothing. I just have to hope like hell it stays together. I'm keeping the factory revlimit so it should do.
If it turns out mine cant be balenced properly I'll have to go aftermarket. i have no idea what a Toda one costs, where do you get them?
More updates...
Rods have arrived, they look pretty well made, I'll drop them out to Lynn Rogers in the morning and get them weight matched.
My heads at back at Franklin engineering at the moment getting the new Exhaust valves seated and the deck surface planed flat.
Grabbed an MSD pro cap, and blaster coil 2 from pioneer auto parts which should help set things alight.
Just spent the morning out at Real Deal Radiators in Henderson getting measured up for a tailor made aluminium radiator, they are only charging $420 all up for a full custom job, that is the best price ever.
Albany radiators wanted to charge $1100!!!
the light at the end of the tunnel is getting nearer!
tntperformance list them under Honda==>otherOriginally Posted by doo0T!doo0T!
I've made enquiries for price also as I'm keen on one. 3.4kg chrome moly
Just got reply from Tony there
Your flywheel took a little homework too, Toda make one for the ZC (the
only thing they make for it) as they were into Toyotas when these were
being raced, so didn't have too much to do with them. You will need to let
us know what model ZC you have as there is a difference between the models
(100 and 110), something about the face etc being a different size.
Although the price is the same, $595 + freight.
89 Civic Si
Work in Progress
ZC flywheels are interchangable with D16a6/7 (sohc) which are really common, he should have known that.Originally Posted by nzcivicracer
I have a ZC flywheel on a D16a6/7 block right now infact.
Mind you it is running the ZC size clutch, maybe the clutches dont swap over.
$595 + P&H Ouch! Would the D16a6 price be the same?
Mine was free plus 3/4's of an hour on the lathe at Uni. (mind you I'm yet to see if it balences up or not)
I think 3.6 kg might be a bit light, from what I've heard anything under 6 is an asshole to drive and hopeless off the track.
I'd go ACT if I were you they wont be any where near $595.
hehehehe mine wieghs 1.8kg you wanna try drive that at anythign other than WOT
the only difference between genius and stupidity is genius has limits
Should be sweet, 12 pound is just under 5.5kg I should be about there or a bit over.Originally Posted by Horny_Devil
WTF. Is it a lightened OEM one or a billet? My pressure plate alone would weigh about that much! It must rev up and down like a motorbike.Originally Posted by Trench_Rat
I ordered that blockguard yesterday, but the bottom end balence still hasn't been done.
****and the little boy waits****
its was a toda 2.4kg that got milled down lol and yes its very peaky but with good throttle control its sings like a birdy.WTF. Is it a lightened OEM one or a billet? My pressure plate alone would weigh about that much! It must rev up and down like a motorbike.
im trying to figure out this thing with putting the arp bolts in the top those rods are identical to the scat ones im using and the bolts og in the bottom. you will have to notch your block for clearences with the bolts in the bottom but how the fuck will you torque them up with them on the other side? notching the block aint hard man just take a bit of time its near impossible to cock up.
the only difference between genius and stupidity is genius has limits