Next step, flip driver and motor round 180 degrees and make the enigne at the rear, then add another steering column to the new front. 4ws and engine in the back would be lethal!
Awesome! Good way to send it on to the new owner too. I guess that's the last we'll see of Too Wild for NZ...
efsi: What's wrong with a 4AGE? They're good engines
spooner: They have a flat spot from 0 to 8000rpm.
Sorry this has been a while coming guys - but a full time job and building three race cars at the same time, plus filming and uploading, plus blogging means sometimes I don't keep up with everything I start.
Anyway - your patience has been rewarded. Here is the firsr video of Ninja in action - although we only had the 2nd gear factory start mode. Can't wait till we get it locked in 1st gear... it's fast enough in second:
Block Testing a Gymkhana Special - YouTube
The guy I've sold it to is going to attack the NSW motorkhana championships, but only has a year's experience running them in a road car. So I'm gonna teach him the finer arts of wringing this Honda's neck. He's lined up a tar industrial area this Saturday, so there'll be instruction from the masked "master", more practise, and more videos within a week.
Last edited by Bill Pearson; 9th February 2012 at 10:20 PM.
hey bill, cool build. Just wondering, how come you down graded to the prelude motor? surely the d15b would have more power out of the box, and more aftermarket support?
Its so much more fun to drive a slow car quickly - Jay Leno
Built, Not bought
id say the prelude motor would be better over the d15b. torque to make the auto work
would the auto gearbox "kickdown" cable keep it in 1st if you held it right open? When i had a half manual half auto car i connected the kickdown cable to the clutch pedal and it downshifted good lol
-84 CRX, ZC DOHC
-89 Accord B20A
-92 EG hatch
Yeah we have no kick down connected and just a bit of tie wire holding it fully up at the moment as we don't want it changing gears. As basic as you can get - but it works. Too much bhp makes a motorkhana special (or any road car) very difficult to drive in these extremely tight tests. Whereas more torque puts down power and thrust while cornering on full lock, with less chance of breaking out into wheelspin - and the secret to quick (winning) times is to keep the car moving at all times. Me driving around those steel RHS poles under the car port in the video demonstrates the sort of handling and traction we need. Imagine trying to do those figure eights within a double carport in any road car. I doubt even Ken Block could do it (Oh crap... here comes the responses).
After market support? We have no need of any engine mods as you've gotta use stock cams etc to retain drivability. After market support? He, he - that's our local salvage auctions, as you can see we can buy a whole old Prelude for less than a Civic driveshaft kit! The current "top" moorkhana cars in Oz are powered by 1100cc mid 1960's Mini motors, 1970's Renault, a Civic 1300cc 8 valve, etc... ancient crapola. So - funny as it sounds - Ninja's 1984 Prelude motor will be the most modern powerplant at the State titles by decades. Trust me - this car is gonna kick arse and be QUITE the talking point amongst the established old hands. It'll be the only one with an IRS rear end too!
Last edited by Bill Pearson; 9th February 2012 at 11:31 PM.
Solid explanation, bait not taken haha
Torque does indeed win races. Best of luck with those carbs!
Its so much more fun to drive a slow car quickly - Jay Leno
Built, Not bought
Here's video of Ninja racing in the dirt.
Block Gymkhana Special Race - YouTube
^ oh thats so cool, would love to be able to build one of those... right now im dreaming of a rear wheel drive
version that the mates and i could use for shits and giggles, on a dirt track it would be a right laugh, awesome stuff
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Specials like Ninja aren't difficult or expensive to build, as long as you or a mate can weld properly. You basically put the front and rear units on the floor of your garage which should be marked beforehand with lines for squaring everything up, and make a steel tube frame to join and mount everything up. A few words of advice though. 1) NEVER base such a project round a car with a worn out or troubled engine or gearbox. Insurance write-offs are the best donors as you know all the mechanicals were working before it smashed. 2) The best place to run or race one is in a car club, so check their requirements before building something that won't be allowed to race. 3) Surf the net for ideas from buggy build sites. Design it once. 4) Don't rush your build. Enjoy the construction phase. Make it once. 5) Have a realistic budget. Some things will be scrounged or donated. Some things you can make yourself. But a few things will require you to spend $$$ to get quality items - like tyres for example.
You can follow me building my latest V6 mid-engined offroad racer at my "WJP004" channel on U-Tube following the above guidelines.