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Picture of the engine bay of my AE82
it has 175 hp at the wheels,runs a blacktop with silvertop rods and we rev it to 8,800rpm,it has 290 cams,link computer
front view
Rear view
Rear View II
bilsten suspension,roll cage,jun 4.6kg flywheel,4 puck ceramic clutch,lsd.it is road registered .,
My new xt lap timer
The receiver mounted in the the rear window
My new techno toy trumpets came it the post today
Up against the old ones i was using which are a little bit altered by me
Very well made out of one single billet of ali and the base is not pressed on and the rim is solid,very nice.
My brakes after first round of racing, my brake pads ended up like this.
i was lucky that the small piece that came off wedged in the caliper so i had small bit of braking left at 180kms - so time for a brake upgrade....
i made up new metal mounting brackets to hold the willwood 4 pot calipers
picture of new calipers
rearview of new calipers - brake pads just slide out to change them.
sweet - keep you posted after next race meet - will test em there! :-)
OLD petrol tank - weighs more than my girlfriend! :-) hee hee.
had to cut out my floor
new hole cut out to fit new petrol tank
the tank is 30ltrs and foam filled so instead of having to run about 35litres in the old tank so it doesnt lose fuel pickup on corners this new tank should be able to run 20litres with no cut outs. SAVING Weight....
new fuel cell to be put into - has to be housed in an aliminium box
new box fitted and bolted into car
have to have a sealed lid on it because the car been a hatchback, the fuel cant be separated from the driver. in case of rollover, i wont get doused - otherwise my gf will through a match and collect on the life insurance :-) kidding. i think.
whoops, drilled holes slightly wrong - late night.
side view. under car.
car is as it stands in its racing glory - or not.
Car on trailor heading for a 7 hour drive to the race track
new in take box I bent up and gave to some fellow car club members to weld up,only .9 ali so it wasn't the easilest thing to weld.
used rivitnuts to hold the lid on
put the filter behind the fake head light and made a panel behind it
brought a new muffler and some bends and welded a side exhaust on,my welder is a gasless one and does crap welds so i brought a disposible gas bottle and it works a treat,much better welds
removed all the wiring and the black insulation off the fire wall and gave the engine bay a clean up.
Painted the fire wall black,striped out all the wiring and dash thats not needed,raised the gear leaver up,took out 16kgs in weight.
removed the clutch and found the pucks are falling apart,replaced the plate with solid center as these are only $100 and the spring centers are $350,took it for a drive and it is easier to drive than the spring center one which I was very supprised.
Not to bad just a little panel beating and see be all sweet
drive shaft hard against the body
bottom arm a little bent
shock hard against the inside
One brand new tyre down and a rim,This racing is expensive whe you go through a tyre a meeting
Popped out the bumper with a little heat
bonnet did get a little folded ut i put me beating
skills to practice,removed the bonnet scoop as it
acts as brake at 200km.
made a front splitter out of 4mm plywood,still needs a paint.
the bumper had to be removable so i welded to pipes
that slide into each other into the bumper irons and then
cut the irons in half so they slide together nicely
bolted the other half to the car and now the bumper
slides on,the rear of the splitter hooks on to a bracket
as it is put on,just about ready for next week,just
need to check the steering arms and drive shafts
for straitness.
after the evo tugger almost pushed me into the rx7
beside me at 180km/hr, got a little out of line
around the sweeper and cut the ripple strip and
blown my bilstein shock apart. - more moolah
required to fix....
my mates come to the party and fix it for me
for some sponsorship - sweet. cheers mate!
shock is a little long
and that would be why the whole top is blown apart.
few photos at end of ss2000 series
cut the spare tyre well out and replaced with aliminium,
cut the rear bumper out to let the air out the gets traped,
took the glass out and replaced with 3mm polycarbonate.
Changed to wasted spark setup and had the car re-dynoed
at 122kw atw at gray capper performance,the car pulls
hard now and at manfield where it was only in 3rd is now
well in 4th.
took out even more dash
added a small rear spoiler
Came 2nd in class for first years racing and 7th over
all in the championship
pukekohe 1.10.5
taupo 1.44.7
manfield 1.19.9
Took the old shocks in to get revalved after changing the
spring rates only to be told that they had enought water
in them to make a cup of tea,this in turn acted as an
abrasive and had worn the shafts,the simple solution
was when they were built they should have had a drain
hole drilled in them..so hence some new 40mm bilsteins
and struts were made with 750lbs springs.
Had a problem last race with the front wheels spinning
and hopping out of corners due to taking the keeper springs
out of the front and reducing the droop so when it leaned on
the corners the front wheel would lift of the ground so we had
stiffen up the rear.
The old aluminium intake bit the dust,cracked and was held
together with tape,Time to put some fibre glassing skills to action.
Haven't done it before so i made a polystryene mould,covered it
in tape and fibreglassed over it, used matting that has to layers that are crossed over each other and sewed together,it goes around corners
really well. Did two layers on the body any three on the ends,made a
new backing plate up that the new mould fits over and is cable tied on. it uses 110mm pipe,had to get a new filter and made a new housing up
for it out of some polycarbonate which i bent up with a little heat.
Came out really well and looks the part.
After purchasing a new gearbox with trd gearset
and lsd, put it in and took it to puke for a test, had
problems with 3rd and fourth gear selection,took it
home and removed the gearbox to find all the pucks
on the clutch had at least halve of the material brocken
off and there was a hot spot on the pressure plate
leaving me to beleive that the clutch wasn't disengaging
properly and causing shifting problems
Got a new clutch and prussure plate, had the pressure
plate balanced and was advised to balance the clutch
plate as well, which was quite bad.
Put the clutch in and the box back on and took it for a
quick drive down the road and it went into all gears
ok, good as next week i was going to take it down to
taupo for a test, Packed it up and headed down at 6 in
the morning, put it on the track or the recky run and
could only get 1st and 5th gear, 4 hours later after i
changed the box oil to syntrax i got out for 25 odd
laps, 4th gear still wasn't shifting properly.drove
home after that.
Removed the box and gave it to me g box man,
had brocken 3th and 4th baulk rings,so he machined
a steel one to fit one side and put a stronger brass
one on 4th gear,put it back together to find that
the gear selector for 5th gear was the wrong
lenght and it was always wanting to go into 5th.
He fixed it and i paided the bill.
In between this i changed the rear brakes to
wilwoods.with there little pads
put Gearbox back in after it was fixed and took it to
puke for a test,as i was afraid the rears were locking
up, the g box was working good.
Took it home and put a bias valve in ready to take it
to puke for another test.The test was friday os on the
sunday i when down to the garage to check the car to
find a puddle of oil under the engine,The rear crank
seal had gone so off with the g box again,New seal arrived
on wednesday along with flywheel bolts,Put it back
together,Took it to puke and it ran sweet. Did a 1.09.68
happy to get it the nines.
the guy that does my suspension was at the track and
he said that i should urathane the engine mounts at
$165plus gst each so i brought some flexane at $130
and made my own.Used the heat torch to heat the
mounts to release the old rubber and slide the pin out,
Scuffed the inside up and the pin, got some tyre intube
cut a small hole it it to put the pin into to the hole to
seal the end, drilled a hole into the ply and with
screws and washers i clamped the outer part of
the engine mount down to seal onto the innertube
to seal it ready for the flexane to be pour in.
Did two mounts by removing the rubber completely
and one of then i just fulled in around the existing
rubber , I had enough to do one more mount but
had to let it go to waste as I didn't have another
mount to fill,take 2 days to cure.
Our first race meeting is labour weekend at taupo,
32 cars entered, so my car is finally ready i hope.
Have new website on our series called IRC,
indepentent race classes.Has when we race
and pictures of the cars,really informative.
Brought a lathe
made up a new in cabin adjustable sway bar. using the lathe to make the bearing holder that holds the sway bar arm.
not bad for part time lather - spiffy.
using the lathe (again) i made up a handle to turn the sway bar arm. using a morse push pull cable from a boat.
after fighting understeering - major problem. i took a good look at the castor. as from the old photos where i had the cambar plates. put positive camber on the front wheels as they were turned - think it is from having the top of the shock not only moving backwards but moving inwards as well that caused this problem. so now i have made them as per these photos and now it gives more negative cambar when i turn in. so for all you who have copied my cambar plates on the angle, i suggest changing them.
made up a new lightweight dash and tidied up teh wiring Again!.
took it for a test out to puke last friday and everything worked really well. shaved another 1/2 second off my best time. down to 108.5. sweet.
but ended up blowing a front crank seal.
tried to get the nut off to get the main pulley off and it wouldnt budge - tried to heat the bolt, rattle gun, starter motor, sheer force, nothin!.
so with a piece of exhaust pipe i made it to slot inside the main pulley to sit over the 4 spokes. so i could lock the pulley and apply more sheer force - success after bending the whole piece, the bolt finally loosened.
Took the car to hamptons and the engine lunched itself, was running all good.
The piston has come up to far at somestage due to the carbon ring at the top is gone on the cylinder. Either its dropped a valve which snapped off snapping 2 more valves and the rest is history. The bottom end is still together but the sump had more water than oil in it. Where that came from not to sure.
So thats nimm gone 'was tooking ford to it instead I have to build a completely new engine.
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Originally Posted by RSMIRAGE 
Re: fxgts build thread 
I still have the mirage its fully built now first outing is the NZ hondas trackday November 4th
