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Monster Unit - Viney's Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI TME
Red Evo 4 and Evo 6 Tommi Mak - Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum
Couldn't find the original build thread, but the two links above should have what you need.
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Here you go.
Monster Unit - Viney's Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI TME
Red Evo 4 and Evo 6 Tommi Mak - Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum
Couldn't find the original build thread, but the two links above should have what you need.
Originally Posted by tysonzane
Love your work
Thats where I found it to lol, looks like DAMD side skirt extensions, possibly DAMD end caps to. It doesn't bother me if there not CF, fiberglass copys will do, will just paint them black.
cher
Love your work
Picked up seats today, feel and look amazing. Also grabbed some left over fabric from a mate, exactly enough to do the silver inserts in the rear seats, the rest will be black suede with red stitching. Will order some more fabric to redo the door trims aswell.
Should look something like this when its done.
Very nicestill looking at getting the tune done sometime soon?
Motul Honda Cup #94
Awesome mate
Soon as possible, but if parts I want, like these seats, pop up cheap then they get priority lolVery nice
Cheers, yea should do, the tops of the rears have faded to that lovely purple color and the door trims are peeling off. Just need to sort some seat rails nowAwesome mate
just my 2 cents steve, but i reckon just do the door cards in black...getting them done with bride is too much. Black with the red stitching would look better overall
*HARDPARKERSINC*
EK3 D15b-T 14.6s @ 159.9kmh l EG5 1600ZC 16.8s @ 134kmh l lHATERS.
Yeah I think the same. It'll look fucking badass with the front and rear seats in the same logo, but looks a bit overkill with the doorcards done too
I think your both right too actually, plus the cost of more bride fabric from overseas will be way more than some black suede.
Scored this setup cheap from a guy with a failed project for less than half the price of getting it new, winning
Intake manifold, fuel rail, 80mm TB. Im only using 3 of the vac ports, the rest will be plugged up.
From what I can make out from other cars setups I will need to do the following to get it all to work:
Weld on the TB adapter plate, easy enough (Attached to the TB in the pic)
TB Gasket of some sort
RB20DET or similar D style TPS + rewire it work with my wiring
Throttle cable rework
Dipstick rework
Rework IC pipe with joiners etc, won't really know whats needed until I get it installed but shouldn't be to much trouble
Fuel lines: Engine bay filter to rail, rail to FPR
This is what I really want done by Dec this year, I'm calling it stage 3 lol
ENGINE
Intake setup above in and working
Tune!!!! lol
INTERIOR
Seat rails, found at NZKW so will be next on the list
Re-trim rear seats and door cards, with the bride fabric and black suede with red stitching to match the Brides
Do something with the steering wheel, either re-trim or find another mint OEM one
EXTERIOR
Side and end cap extensions (as per the white TME) these will prob be impossible to find
CF bonnet
Re spray in OEM silver, roll front guards at the same time
CF wing of some type if I find one I like
Some type of front splitter/canards etc
Last edited by Steve-O; 5th February 2012 at 04:53 PM.
Got seats in thanks to rails from NZKW, even threw in a set of bolts for me, GC. They feel awesome but do sit quite low but its not much of an issue for me as im quite tall. Certainly has made getting in and out more interesting lol.
Been planning out the new intake and fuel setup by using as much of the stock hardware as possible. People might be wondering what was up with that fuel pressure gauge under the bonnet at nats, well thats from when I was testing fuel pressure with my tune issue lol.
Ive since taken it out and will be using one of the hose fittings from the gauge as one end of the fuel rail which fitted perfect, Ive decided to run a aftermarket FPR, I didn't really want to but I can't find any fittings that will allow the stock FPR to join up with the aftermarket rail, nevermind at least it will let me squeeze a bit more from the 880s if need be.
GSS sorted me out with another hose end fitting the same as I already had but they mentioned it may leak as some of the generic Chinese fittings have a different degree of angle on the end of the fittings and suggested I use all the same brand to avoid leaks, won't really know until its put it but if it leaks I can get 2 fuel rail fittings if need be.
I chopped off the end of the stock fuel feed line with the banjo bolt attached, slid over some 7.5mm fuel hose and one end will go to the rail fitting. The other end will use 7.5mm fuel hose going to the inlet on the FPR and same line used on the outlet to return. Not bothering with expensive bling braid line, runs nowhere near heat or rubbing so I don't see the need, plus being black will help hide things.
Test fitted the injectors which fit perfect but with the rail spacers in they seem a little loose and turn to much for my liking, unlike stock which are nice and tight, solution? a stack of washers to fit, perfect nice a tight and sealed. Just capped off the soon to be unused vac ports just in case something needs to be hooked up it can be done quickly.
These mirrors showed up on TM so picked them up, same style as the ones over the page on the white TME, electric to. Grant can paint them black for me.
Also picked up some fuel rail fittings of the same seat/angle/brand just to avoid any future leaks, also found a RB20 TPS and picked up some fuel line. Got a FPR on the way to.
Got a mate at work who used to be a boat builder so he can weld on the TB flange to the IM. Need to enlarge the throttle cable hole on the TB to fit, rework the dipstick, make a TB gasket and rework IC pipe.
Well driving back from town last night after the best steak I ever had and the smell of burnt smelly oil fills the car. Get home and smoke is pouring from the underside so I have a look.
Oil is dripping thick and fast from the rear diff, onto the exhaust causing the smoke and smell.
Started to pull it out today to find out what the deal is, seems someone has had it out in the past as 2 of the driveshaft bolts are snapped off. Cracked most of the big bolts so will continue tomorrow. Drained the oil and it stinks real bad of burnt oil. Will get some pics up when I get it out.
No AYC light coming on, no strange sounds when I was driving or turning, no idea where the oils coming from as the whole diff is caked in oil as is most of the subframe and rear underside.
I love this car sometimes lol
ffuuuck thats shit man, just another set back ay, we all have them, good luck with getting her fixed
Pull the whole subframe, sway bar, diff etc out. Pulled it apart and all seems fine, teeth are all in perfect cond, nothing appears wrong at all with it.
The AYC clutch plate section STINKS of burnt AFT fluid, the fluid in the lines is still clean and red as is the fluid in the boot.
It appears the burnt AFT fluid was coming from this overflow port on top of the diff (the white plastic bit) its hard to tell as it was caked in oil but it appears this is where it was coming from.
My guess is it was never bled properly in the past, no idea what else it would be.
Will degrease the whole lot, clean it up and give the underside and subframe etc a paint with some leftover paint.
one step back, two steps forward, grats on the plenum too, winning hard
i hear pitstop are doing the mean exhaust jobs these days
Cher, Yea at least now I know the diff is in perfect cond, was pretty easy to pull out so just another thing to lean.one step back, two steps forward, grats on the plenum too, winning hard
Should be at ardmore wings and wheel March 4th if its all up and running
Ok so heres what Ive found.
Ive degreased the parts and found the larger section of the AYC case has 'Evo parts 06/07' etched into it meaning its been changed in the past at some point
Now the only thing I can spot is on the larger section of the case had some of that instant DIY weld stuff typically found at repco covering a section (the silver looking bit just to the left of the bleed valve, where a ball type seal sits) so I chipped all that crap off as best I could and found the ball seal still in there, but just blew through the feed line and had the other end covered with the bleed nipple and I could feel a very faint leak in that area so will get that welded up properly.
These are the two 'ends' of the clutch pack section (one sits on top of the other), which when activated through pressure in the lines, push the inside of the ends against the clutch packs (someone correct me if im wrong)
My guess is that tiny tiny leak over time has caused small amounts of air to enter the AYC lines causing an air bubble (in effect the same way brakes are not bled properly) and therefore causing an issue.
None of that explains why the AYC section was leaking from what I assume was the overflow (difficult to tell since the whole underside was caked in burnt ATF which STINKS!!! but def coming from the diff itself. Since the pump/line/housing fluid is separate from the boot/lines fluid. Lines/boot fluid was still clean and red and fluid levels in the boot never went down so I assume it wasn't leaking into the housing since that fluid was still clean and would have some blackness in it from mixing/leaking.
When I drained the AYC it STUNK but the diff gear side was fine and still clean leading me to believe its def the AYC.
Maybe the slow leak from the dodge weld caused it to eventually lock something up and boil over?
I have no idea really, desperately need it fixed in 2 weeks!
On another note, degreased/cleaned/painted all the underside and subframe/swaybar/diff bits etc and filled in the rooted diff bushes with good old sikaflex. The diff used to bash the underside under hard/quick shifting and after seeing the bushes im not surprised! nice and tight now.
DIFF/AYC ISSUE SORTED!!! and its nothing major at all thank god just some n00b failed mods of my own doing
I recently installed an aftermarket wheel I borrowed off someone just to get a feel for size/style etc and didn't even think about lining up the boss kit with the steering position sensor or lining up the sensor straight.
Instead I just whacked it on without lining up the holes. So when I turned the wheel the sensor behind it stayed in one spot (since the tabs were not connected with the boss) and the sensor must have been left at such an angle telling the AYC to activate constantly or whatever, causing the fluid/diff to heat up and overflow.
What a noob!! lucky no damage was caused, diff has all been degreased and clutch plates still at a good thickness according to the workshop manual.
Gave me chance to fix the stuffed diff bushes anyway. Cleaned and painted the underside, subframe, swaybar, exhaust etc.
Just need to put it all back, fill with fluids, bleed AYC and im good to go!
Don't ya hate that? Haha, you find out the cause of the problem is something really simple, and you feel both annoyed and relieved at the same time. Haha
yup lol just wish my tune was the same!
But not too pissed off since I fixed the bushes that were pretty much just held in by few mm of rubber
Good hard work going on in that garage!!!
I like whats happening with the plenum...
Why ?
Hey dude, have a look at the link below. Carbon Fibre OEM Evo 5-6 bonnet for sale on this new thing called "Hustleit" LOL
Hustleit on Facebook | Facebook
Last edited by R8edM; 28th February 2012 at 11:40 PM.
cheers, yes its very messy and smelly. Got the TB adapter plate welded onto the IM so one less thing to do.
Saw that a while back on trademe, not high on the list atm plus the ends are stuffed so im giving a miss
Rear end cleaned/painted and put back together, AYC case hole welded, just need to put it all back, fill with fluids/bleed AYC etc.
Cleaned and painted exhaust
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