Well I only got the car yesterday, so haven't had the most amazing squiz ever. It might have the battery mounted fine but just the strap holding the lid on...
Was too hung over to get under the car yesterday and have a poke around![]()
Well I only got the car yesterday, so haven't had the most amazing squiz ever. It might have the battery mounted fine but just the strap holding the lid on...
Was too hung over to get under the car yesterday and have a poke around![]()
Yah, what they said about the battery box and harness situation. It needs attention. By attention, I mean, do it differently.
Yeah, if the bolt holes are far enough back (otherwise you get silly steep shoulder harness angles). This is likely to require the purchase of eyebolts, and possibly more mounting hardware for the belt (to attach the eyebolt to). If the factory belts are still there, then you can use them on Sunday.
because its not strong enough to hold you in place in the event of a crash, strut bar = thin metal
NZHondas.com... Serious business...
As long as the battery itself is being held done by two metal straps with 4 bolts and washes either side of the chassis, its should be fine. I have the same battery box with strap in my racecar and is set up that way, with the added protection of polystyrene to stop (even though the metal straps are solid as) it moving around.
Make sure ya can reach the under side of the chassis where the nuts are. Bloody nightmare to pull apart unless ya wanna jack the car up and then ya still need long arms(or a pit bitch)
I bent my old rear strutbrace by jumping on it. That wouldn't give much security in an accident eh? If it was at one of my events I would laugh at you and fail you in scrutineering.
Just take it out (you are not allowed it on the road without an authority card anyway I believe) or use the rear seatbolt holes. Keeping in mind the harness isn't allowed to be on more than a 45 degree angle. You could weld a piece of rollcage grade tubing between the rear strut towers and use that if you wanted; in place of your strutbrace.
'there is no patch for stupidity.'
Weld = re cert
Instead of welding a rear strut, could a new strut brace be custom made that is a lot more solid, say like 1.5" 3mm steel tubing with ~5mm plates made to secure to strut towers.
And fairly sure you are allowed it there if you have OEM seat belts aswell. You need an authority card if you want to replace your OEM belts with a race harness.
I will remove them for now, then put them in properly when people stop teh flame on my 1 day old car and will actually help
---------- Post added at 11:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 AM ----------
And I have a clever little pit at my place.... ok its more like a dip in the driveway that ive made rails for so its plenty easy to get under the car![]()
Were not flaming you for having the harness in, more like helping you so that you dont die if you crash or have problems with WOF's? Come on man you post up a thread on here and don't expect people to express their opinions?
And no you cant use the harness in a road car even if you still have the OEM seatbelts. The only way you can use harnesses in a car that is driven on the road is if they come with OEM fitment (like 'esprits' exige) or in a car with a full cage and an authority card.
Motul Honda Cup #94
Yea I know you cant use them on the road, but they can be there not in use, unless you have the authority card etc. I guess my post was a little ambiguous...
The rear seat mounting holes seems like the logical option, will need mounting brackets, who do I inquire to about them and those options? Speedtech?
Specialised Gear for American V8 Cars - Silvester V8 Performance, Christchurch Performance
You will want two bolt in plates, one for each shoulder belt. I used to have my harness mounted there before i got my cage, now they are on my harness bar on the main hoop. I used to only put my harness in for trackdays though![]()
Last edited by Brent; 29th September 2009 at 11:44 AM.
Motul Honda Cup #94
Even if you have a solid strutbrace you are still relying on the strength of the nuts at either end holding it on.
There is no point trying to beat around the bush, it won't be allowed regardless.
'there is no patch for stupidity.'
Will order tonight depending on what I requireThanks Brent
---------- Post added at 01:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:41 AM ----------
Ooo one more thing, got the last warrent of fitness sheet with it, can you fail your warrent by having a shift light? It says something like "Blinding light on dash affects your vision"
Its a shift light, it's only blinding at 8500rpm....![]()
Bro good to see you got a car![]()
I like it. Clean and simple with the right mods done. Look forward to see how you build on it. Bet it's fun on the windy roads!
HAHAHAHA.Yea i believe you can get a warrent with a shift light
LOL i just dont think they see it as a distraction, of course that would differ if you had like 17 tacho's au like some![]()
I never had an issue with the shiftlight in the DA but i can see where hes coming from, perhaps just remove it for a wof and put it back in?
NZHondas.com... Serious business...
Ok, so removed the harness, emailed silvester about the bolt plates. Found some good strong points at the rear seat for better mounting (Don't even know why he had them around the strut braces)
Checked the battery, looks to only be the 'stock' mounting plate from the engine bay bolted to the floor, so only a 2 bolts (It's definitely not going anywhere for normal driving, but need to put on some extra bolts for racing) The strap you see in the picture is literally just holding the lid on, and it looks to be vented fine (Lid doesn't seal it)
Found a small puddle of water in the bootso have to find that leak eventually.
Seeing my main man Trev at Gethings in Upper Hutt for him to order a few bushes, a cheap non-slip cover for the brake pedal, radiator cap and extended wheel studs.
Box needs to be vented to OUTSIDE the car if you have a wet-cell battery bro.
Do what I did and go to Jaycar and buy one of their little jump-pack batteries.
Dry-cell and sealed. No need for a massive box and it saves weight. Since you have all the wiring already there it wont be hard to modify everything to suit
Oh i seeee, its not that harsh of an acid thoughmaybe a bit red and itchy if it gets on your skin, maybe a bit me if you leave it ... hehe
How much do these dry cells cost? It's my 21st on Monday, will rape civiconfire's and Goom's bank accounts to get me one![]()